helo I have been looking at a EJ20 2.1 Forged Stroker Kit witch includes Nitrided EJ25 Crankshaft
ACL Rear Thrust Main Bearing Set
ACL Big End Bearing Set
Omega Piston Set (including ring set, gudgeon pins and circlips)
Uprated H Section Conrod Set
price £1,500
I have a EJ20 closedeck
what would be the proses to get this done and how much would it cost roughly?? any recommendations to do the job ??

 

Price of part + 2/3 grand labour

 

The first thing you're going to need is a decent gearbox
https://www.scoobynet.com/engine-man...-dyno-map.html

 

LOL yes I will get a new box 2-3k plus parts that's a lil better then I fort not cheap but not a unaffordable

 

Don't forget that a 5 speed box has limitations in terms of what torque it can cope with, and it probably won't live very long with a healthy 2.1 wringing its neck.

 

Another 1800ish the 6speed, 300ish clutch, new brakes to cope with the power 1000ish, all fluids and gaskets 150ish

 

wow that shot up fast I can get a typr r for that price redy forged. so if my engine packs in il save for a new subs raver then re-build

 

Speed costs money.
How fast do you want go?

 

Fast/Reliable/Cheap

Pick two of them...

 

its all the little bits that add up, nex exhaust 500 ish big turbo 1000ish youl need a good ecu to control it all 1000 ish +600 ish for mapping, yea but if you dont get it done yourself it isnt yours?im planning to build my own over winter, just a odb forged pistons uprated crank and rods ,im planning 350 at the wheels but reliable , cheap as ill be doing it myself, and fast as we a know 350 in a classic is plenty enough

 

Just sell your car and buy an STI, it will work out at half the price in the long run.

 

Reliable/Cheap im planning on 350ish bhp, iv got it redy for the map its going in soon so don't want to sell it I put a lot of time/effort into it all mods was done out side my door I even changed the door cards and seats , I just needed no my opctions incase she blows after the map , I hope the EJ20 can hack out a wile its still on its original internals

 

When I mentioned doing this all I got was sell up and buy a Sti, now I've put far to much money into my car to sell up and buy a Sti so like you I'm looking at doing a 2.1 stroker, now I've got someone to do it for me who's done all the work on my car since I've owned it, so like you I'm looking to source parts and decide what kind of spec I want, I've already done breaks on my car so all I need to source is a 6speed new turbo and stroker kit and a good ecu so I'm looking at 3k-4k so will see how it goes

 

Do it sam. Haha

 

Sorry guys but you will find it's more like £7k and then you'll need a new ecu and yet another remap if you want to get the best out of it, then your going to have to do something about your old tired WRX heads so another £650 for a re-fresh with sti parts unless you go avcs heads then there is a whole new set of costs to factor in as well as buying the avcs you'll need to re-fresh them too, you really are on to a hiding to nothing and will end up spending circa £10k by the time your done just to get what an STI can do with a turbo and a remap.

But hey, what do I care? it's not my money.

P.S; I'm a big fan of the WRX but for what it is, a few light mods and they are a great daily driver but if you want 450bhp forget the WRX and just buy an STI.

 

its my daily car so 350bhp should be good and after reading all the advice if it blows then am gana cry lol but will have no choice but to brake it and save for a type r or p1. thanks for all the advice people

 

My engine is being built this week coming. Going from a 2.0 to a 2.1 stroker price is hefty but cannot wait

 

how much in total ? and good luk with the subs

 

You will have to figure the costs of modifying the CDB to go down the stroker route into your budget too.

If you are using a EJ20 CDB, then you will need to have a rear thrust conversion done to the crankcases to use the rear thrust EJ257 nitrided crank and an extra set of center thrust main bearings to suit your center thrust CDB.

The Omega pistons (and other brands) might foul the bore squirters at bottom dead center on the CDB due to the extra stroke of the EJ257 crank,so additional spot machining to lower the bore squirters or a bore squirter delete might also be needed.

On a CDB, its also prudent to have the line bore checked on the main bearing saddles as it can be off and cause oil clearance problems.

All the above can bump the price of the build up.

You could buy a S20C semi closed deck block from the STi V7 onwards which is already rear thrust and will take good power/boost, to save the cost of machining and extra main bearing set.


Mick

 

thanks for the advice Mick helps loads, am doing my reshurch on the S20C semi closed deck block now

 

Hi mick I'm not being ignorant not pming you back, still trying to get my head round the info you sent me re the crank do you do your own machining/checking block half's in house personally,