MY99 ecu options
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MY99 ecu options
Hello all, not been on here in a long while, i was considering having a scooby a while back, but never followed it through, anyway i have recently bought this one from a friend and so far all is going well.
Just need to clear up a few things im not sure about,
Car is a MY99 turbo 2000
Standard form, with hks filter and RCM rear exhaust and de cat
Has anyone changed to a prodrive ecu, is it a plug and play mod?
Or do you need the keys re-coded, any other issues that need to be considered.
Can the standard ecu be re mapped
Cheers.
Just need to clear up a few things im not sure about,
Car is a MY99 turbo 2000
Standard form, with hks filter and RCM rear exhaust and de cat
Has anyone changed to a prodrive ecu, is it a plug and play mod?
Or do you need the keys re-coded, any other issues that need to be considered.
Can the standard ecu be re mapped
Cheers.
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Ok, had a search through old posts and managed to answer my first question, yes the original ecu is mappable using the ecutek mapping.
However still not got definite answer on the prodrive ecu, im sure someone on here has fitted one before, and could confirm if the keys need re coding or not.
btw, i am aware the prodrive works as a kit etc
Cheers
However still not got definite answer on the prodrive ecu, im sure someone on here has fitted one before, and could confirm if the keys need re coding or not.
btw, i am aware the prodrive works as a kit etc
Cheers
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Ok, cheers for reply's.
Finally got my head around what i want to do with it now, going to do the prodrive mod to start with and see how things go.
Prodrive ecu on its way along with samco intercooler y pipe, the exhaust system is a full de-cat system as verified by the helpful folks on here, im getting the standard airbox from the previous owner, and ill just put a decent panel filter in it.
The forge BOV im leaving in place as folks think the OE one is not to clever, not to mention old, its only the noise that's hissing me off but once airbox is back in that should deal with that.
So it should run pretty close to the factory prodrive setup when all fitted and i ve not had to spend a fortune.
It will be interesting to see the difference it all makes.
Cheers.
Finally got my head around what i want to do with it now, going to do the prodrive mod to start with and see how things go.
Prodrive ecu on its way along with samco intercooler y pipe, the exhaust system is a full de-cat system as verified by the helpful folks on here, im getting the standard airbox from the previous owner, and ill just put a decent panel filter in it.
The forge BOV im leaving in place as folks think the OE one is not to clever, not to mention old, its only the noise that's hissing me off but once airbox is back in that should deal with that.
So it should run pretty close to the factory prodrive setup when all fitted and i ve not had to spend a fortune.
It will be interesting to see the difference it all makes.
Cheers.
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Interesting, how does the car run at the mo? Have you got an engine light on? I thought even a decat needed a remap, I guess it should work OK with a prodrive ECU. By the way who said the dump valve is preferred over the stock one? Is your Forge recirc. or VTA? if it's VTA I'd definitely suggest ditching it and refitting the original.
Personally whilst I see what your trying to do I'd say you'd be better to get the original airbox and dump valve on then get it mapped to make the best of it, instead of running a bit of a compromised set up.
Personally whilst I see what your trying to do I'd say you'd be better to get the original airbox and dump valve on then get it mapped to make the best of it, instead of running a bit of a compromised set up.
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Interesting, how does the car run at the mo? Have you got an engine light on? I thought even a decat needed a remap, I guess it should work OK with a prodrive ECU. By the way who said the dump valve is preferred over the stock one? Is your Forge recirc. or VTA? if it's VTA I'd definitely suggest ditching it and refitting the original.
Personally whilst I see what your trying to do I'd say you'd be better to get the original airbox and dump valve on then get it mapped to make the best of it, instead of running a bit of a compromised set up.
Personally whilst I see what your trying to do I'd say you'd be better to get the original airbox and dump valve on then get it mapped to make the best of it, instead of running a bit of a compromised set up.
No not got any lights on, and car runs really well, The car has had 7 owners inc me, the owner before the last one spent thousands on it at Roger Clarke MS, they fitted the exhaust system (assuming full) at £630 +vat and labour and forge dump valve Recirc) at same time, the boost pressure was recorded at 0.9/1.0 Bar but no evidence of a re map.
And i think it running standard in my limited experience of scoobys, feels about 200 brake with the dyno in my backside !
It picks up really well and then slowly tails off at the top end, so ill try this mod, if im still not happy i might just change it for an STi next year.
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Thanks once again for replies.
Forgot to mention, i ve also got a good quality smiths boost gauge and fitting kit to go on to keep an eye on things.
Without going silly i cant think of a much better way for a bit of safe extra power.
Forgot to mention, i ve also got a good quality smiths boost gauge and fitting kit to go on to keep an eye on things.
Without going silly i cant think of a much better way for a bit of safe extra power.
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If mine makes the same power as that ill be delighted, of course im not going to the bother of dyno runs, but if mine is at the standard 211 bhp (whether the exhaust adds anything, not sure) then im going to notice 265, plus the prodrive is supposed to make it pull better through the midrange, which is just what i want from a practical daily fun runaround, Its a wagon btw.
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I ve got my samco intercooler pipe and boost gauge fitted now, going to run the car and see what boost pressure its running at, and then im fitting the prodrive ecu, interesting to see how much more boost it makes.
Cheers
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Yeah basically makes boost build and acuator work harder to open wastegate, you can overdo it etc but fact you have a boost guage means you can adjust, test, adjust till right. You dont want to exceed your boost target
Basically you need to remove turbo heat shield, remove circlip on wastegate/acuator arm then wind the arm back, locking nut on it, so that you then have to pull under tension for it to fit back over the wastegate when closed. I found on mine it was when arm hole was half aligned. So looking through hole you see half the wastegate nipple, you then pull arm out and over to fit.
Basically you need to remove turbo heat shield, remove circlip on wastegate/acuator arm then wind the arm back, locking nut on it, so that you then have to pull under tension for it to fit back over the wastegate when closed. I found on mine it was when arm hole was half aligned. So looking through hole you see half the wastegate nipple, you then pull arm out and over to fit.
Last edited by Gambit; 21 December 2013 at 12:04 PM.
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Cheers, sound advice as ever.
Progress report so far, ran car with original ecu and boost was holding steady at 0.9 bar, with an occasional 1.0 bar showing briefly as boost came on, then holding at 0.9.
With the prodrive, it comes on boost smoother than with the original ecu, before it really wanted to go at just under 2k rpm and seemed a bit snatchy, now it comes on nice and smooth and builds stronger towards 4.5 -5 k rpm, and boost pressure is showing and holding 1.0 bar with the occasional 1.1 showing.
Performance wise, its very usable delivery, ive been back lane'ing in it all morning and still grinning now.
Its not made a night and day difference to the overall power but definately nicer to drive now and somewhat quicker overall.
Im wondering if mine has been played about with a little bit already ? or it may be the effects of the air filter and de cat effecting the power delivery ?
But as ive said earlier, not chasing numbers i just want it to feel right.
Good result for £350 spend inc the gauge
Progress report so far, ran car with original ecu and boost was holding steady at 0.9 bar, with an occasional 1.0 bar showing briefly as boost came on, then holding at 0.9.
With the prodrive, it comes on boost smoother than with the original ecu, before it really wanted to go at just under 2k rpm and seemed a bit snatchy, now it comes on nice and smooth and builds stronger towards 4.5 -5 k rpm, and boost pressure is showing and holding 1.0 bar with the occasional 1.1 showing.
Performance wise, its very usable delivery, ive been back lane'ing in it all morning and still grinning now.
Its not made a night and day difference to the overall power but definately nicer to drive now and somewhat quicker overall.
Im wondering if mine has been played about with a little bit already ? or it may be the effects of the air filter and de cat effecting the power delivery ?
But as ive said earlier, not chasing numbers i just want it to feel right.
Good result for £350 spend inc the gauge
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I have now got the original airbox back on, its got the oe type paper filter in it which i may swap for something a bit more free breathing soon, But the car seems to run better again, smoother power delivery, id even say more responsive, and the noise from the DV is now insignificant, you can still hear the turbo, but all the jet engine noise has gone from the cabin, (until you start pushing on)
Glad ive done these few mods, because it's now a much more usable car.
Glad ive done these few mods, because it's now a much more usable car.
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