GazTheHat

I've had conflicting info now and wanted to know.

Having the (whiteline) rear ARB fitted next week, should i replace the droplinks at the same time?

(04 STi 18k miles)

I've read that the rear ARB is a DiY job, would the droplinks be too?

Jay m A

iTrader: (2)

Are the OE sti droplinks plastic or metal? If plastic then its worth changing at the same time.

Yes it is a very simple procedure

GazTheHat

I don't know, don't have car with me.

Does anyone else know??

briforbes

I believe they are plastic - and with the increased stress from the ARB, are likely to snap. They're too compliant anyway, and to get the best from your uprated ARB should be changed.

Whiteline do two types of droplink - fancy alloy ones at £50-60 a pair, or ugly steel ones at £30 a pair. There is no performance difference between the two. Fitting will tighten things up nicely and compliment the ARB.

Both are very much a DIY job. The exhaust will probably have to be dropped off of its rubbers so you can slide the old ARB out and the new one in, but that's as difficult as it gets.

The difference is amazing - you will soon have lift off oversteer on tap and silly fast cornering speeds will seem normal.

GazTheHat

Thanks for that, you've convinced me to get some droplinks then.

No point in getting the bling ones, no-ones gonna see 'em.

p1doc

i got the bling alloy ones cannot se them but they are much lighter allegedly therefore weight saving!original oe spec are plastic so need upgrading when you get arb-22 mm adjustable i take it?
martin

silent running

Definitely worth getting the drop links as well. Actually, you can see them a little from behind if you're running at normal ride height. The ARB can be got out without even dropping the exhaust. I didn't even need a jack or ramps to get at it.

jgevers

First check which type of rear drop link you have.

If you have 'C' shaped, plastic droplinks, you will need ARB part number BSR36Z and droplink set part number KLC26 (alloy) or KLC19 (metal wire)

If you have metal, ball jointed droplinks, you will need ARB part no. BSR37Z and droplink set part number KLC047 (spherical bearing, adjustable).

Cheers

scoobyverysoon

iTrader: (1)

Ive just fitted the bling DL and whiteline ARB - and yes you can see them through the rear wheel next to the brake caliper - I took the old setup off without any trouble but needed to unhook the Backbox as I couldnt get it back in. one tip though is to soak all the nuts in Wd40 the night before then an hour before you are due to start the switch. They came off with no hallse at all.

silent running

Enjoy your new tail happy scoob! Most say that you should keep the ARB on the middle settings, but I went to the stiffest one after a week or two, and I've never gone back, rain or shine.

scoobyverysoon

iTrader: (1)

thinking of knocking mine up to the stiffest setting - how diffrent is it?

alloy

I fitted the ARB and bling DL took 20 mins and no need to touch the exhaust

mine is on the stiffest setting and it suits me so it's staying there . Give it a try after all it is adjustable

ru'

I've heard you need a 16mm and 17mm socket, which I don't have (got 15mm and 17mm but 16mm seems an 'odd' size) - can you recall the sizes? It's too wet at the moment to go groping around on the road to see for myself!

pj748r

Yep,you're correct 16mm and 17mm sockets or spanners.Most decent motor factors or tool shops should have them in stock or be able to get you a 16mm socket.I used a 16mm ring spanner and 17mm socket.

Fitted my Whiteline ARB and steel droplinks about 3 weeks ago(didn't see the point in paying out nearly double for the bling alloy ones and as for the weight difference you'd be better of throwing your spacsaver out and carrying one of those get ya home cans or phone the RAC!)

Initially had it on the middle setting and it made a noticeable difference to turn in and not understeering as much as it used to.

Got a spare 10mins in work last night and changed it over to the stiffest setting.I could feel the difference again around my 'reference corners' on the way home from work this morning.

It certainly feels as if the rear is making the front do its fair share of the cornering now!

Should say that the car is a standard MY05 Wrx.

ru'

Thanks - I'll have to get a spanner then! Good to hear it made a decent difference too.

silent running

Yes the stiffest setting is noticeably different. It feels right to me. Just wait until you fit the Whiteline anti-lift-kit as well. That makes a big difference again, you can really keep your foot down even round really tight roundabouts and the front just digs in and turns. Definitely worth doing and it wasn't as hard to fit as people make out.

ru'

Yeah right, thanks a lot silent running. There I was thinking the mods have come to an end, and you go an suggest the anti lift kit will make another great difference!

GazTheHat

Well i didn't get the droplinks, as they're the steel ones, not plastic.

So had the ALK, ARB and geometry done.

Haven't been for a fully spirited drive, but everything feels right. It's hard to describe, but the car feels more stable, can notice and even better, feel the car. Will wait to the w/end to give a better description. But well chuffed with how it feels.

My vRS feels even more wobbly round corners now.

RLE

iTrader: (2)

Mine were steel at the front and plastic at the rear for some strange reason (53 plate sti) - ended up getting the alloy ones from Demon Twweks along with the ARB and ALK at a very good price. Mention Scoobynet and you get 15% off!

scoobfan

Dead easy to do the rears and it makes a noticeable difference.

Rob

Woodcote

iTrader: (1)

yep change the drop links when you do the ARB .... then the ALk... while you're there get the springs done (or coilovers if you're flush) and get the geometry done ... then start on the brakes .... exhaust and engine ....
and so it goes on ..... i feel like an addict confessing at SA (scoobie annonymous)

ru'

Changed the ARB to the stiffest setting last night (finally).

If doing it without a lift/axle stands etc., then it was much easier to lie on my front and do it that way. Did first side (offside) on my back, and ended up smashing my nose and my head a few times (but then I am an idiot).

The difference is pretty clear, but not too extreme; the car can now be controlled much more easily on the throttle when hammering round roundabouts etc., and lift-off oversteer is more controllable.

Not had much chance to test it fully, but happy so far!

wolfie28

As many have posted already, I fitted a Whiteline rear ARB and alloy drop links today (middle setting). Getting the upper bolt through the ARB and drop link was a tw@t. I think the ARB was slightly bent, got it done though. Haven't given the car a good drive yet but a quick spin round the block and the rear did seem a little tighter .

Geometry set up next me thinks, Wolfie.