Lamdalink vs AFR Gauge!!!
#1
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Is the Lambalink a sort of air/fuel guage?
If it does the same job which would you recommend? I quite like the Autometer AFR gauge but if the Lamdalink is more useful I'll get that instead!
Thanks
Scott
If it does the same job which would you recommend? I quite like the Autometer AFR gauge but if the Lamdalink is more useful I'll get that instead!
Thanks
Scott
#2
lambdalink is just a make of afr gauge.
dont recalli thaving any special features, but some are less linear than others.
Ask someone like Bob Rawle, Mark Aigin, Pat or David Taylor (trout) which they prefer. The mappers tend to have tried more than one and will like or dislike them for differing reasons.
dont recalli thaving any special features, but some are less linear than others.
Ask someone like Bob Rawle, Mark Aigin, Pat or David Taylor (trout) which they prefer. The mappers tend to have tried more than one and will like or dislike them for differing reasons.
#3
Regarding the current talk about the Dawes AFR & it been setup with Scoobies in mind. Would this suit better - I know it has a lot less lights than others. Cost really between the two isn't that major.
Does anyone have any links for where you can get Auotmeter guages?
Any info greatly appreciated.
Regards
Johny.
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It has been setup with Scoobies in mind as I supplied my preferred voltages as the original ones were inappropriate for the Scooby. It is just a voltmeter at the end of the day. I am not a mapper. If you are not mapping with it you only need a few lights to estimate fuelling on boost.
The useless ones are the ones that go from 0-1V in 0.1V steps. Just a disco of flashing lights and little more use than that.
The Lambda Link, the Dawes set up properly, and my design all read to around 20mV or thereabouts in the 800-900mV range which is where the action is. I know two of them use the same chip and I suspect from the spacing of the lights that the Lambda Link does too. There is a new Lambda Link with remote LEDs that may be worth a look, and some of the Autometer ones looked very pretty if that is your thing.
My preferred is 3 LEDs as discretely as possible in a blanking plate by the fog light switches - for 5.5 7 and 9 % CO or thereabouts. I see them in order on full chat from 2500RPM to 7000RPM which is sensible for my car and most UKs.
The useless ones are the ones that go from 0-1V in 0.1V steps. Just a disco of flashing lights and little more use than that.
The Lambda Link, the Dawes set up properly, and my design all read to around 20mV or thereabouts in the 800-900mV range which is where the action is. I know two of them use the same chip and I suspect from the spacing of the lights that the Lambda Link does too. There is a new Lambda Link with remote LEDs that may be worth a look, and some of the Autometer ones looked very pretty if that is your thing.
My preferred is 3 LEDs as discretely as possible in a blanking plate by the fog light switches - for 5.5 7 and 9 % CO or thereabouts. I see them in order on full chat from 2500RPM to 7000RPM which is sensible for my car and most UKs.
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John,
I suspect the cost of you unit will have nothing to do with either wanting, or not wanting to use it.
Given that Bob will be MAPPING the entire fueling, not JUST the area's you consider important (5.5, 7, 9%CO).
This fine if all you want to know is if your car is leaning out at the top end, but it's not much use if you want to set up idle, and cruise.
It sounds like a very good idea for those with "Mickey Mouse" methods for power increases though
Mark.
I suspect the cost of you unit will have nothing to do with either wanting, or not wanting to use it.
Given that Bob will be MAPPING the entire fueling, not JUST the area's you consider important (5.5, 7, 9%CO).
This fine if all you want to know is if your car is leaning out at the top end, but it's not much use if you want to set up idle, and cruise.
It sounds like a very good idea for those with "Mickey Mouse" methods for power increases though
Mark.
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John,
To be fair, it is a great idea for those who just need to know if the fueling is ok, when they up the boost.
I'd still suggest a Knock detector too.
Mark.
To be fair, it is a great idea for those who just need to know if the fueling is ok, when they up the boost.
I'd still suggest a Knock detector too.
Mark.
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Well you can stick on as many LEDs as you like.
Bob does your DVM have peak hold and a quick sample rate - I couldn't get good results reading from a 3Hz DVM - it read lower as it didn't see the peaks. I thought about a DSO for all my fiddling - is that what you use?
Bob does your DVM have peak hold and a quick sample rate - I couldn't get good results reading from a 3Hz DVM - it read lower as it didn't see the peaks. I thought about a DSO for all my fiddling - is that what you use?
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jmca, you can get the autometer gauges from www.scoobymania.co.uk, the AFR gauge is under the Ultra-Lite gauges!
John, I'm thinking about getting a Link chip fitted and mapped by BRD so would you recommend getting an AFR gauge with lots of leds or would one of your homemade 3 led setups be Ok! Where can I get info about this new Lambdalink with the remote leds?
Thanks
Scott
[Edited by ZAZ - 2/7/2002 2:46:16 PM]
John, I'm thinking about getting a Link chip fitted and mapped by BRD so would you recommend getting an AFR gauge with lots of leds or would one of your homemade 3 led setups be Ok! Where can I get info about this new Lambdalink with the remote leds?
Thanks
Scott
[Edited by ZAZ - 2/7/2002 2:46:16 PM]
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I only trimmed to 3 because the rest were just a disco and I wanted them tucked away neatly.
I started with 10 and the spacings were virtually identical to a lambdalink.
Maybe I should start a new user name Mickey Mouse
[Edited by john banks - 2/7/2002 5:18:47 PM]
I started with 10 and the spacings were virtually identical to a lambdalink.
Maybe I should start a new user name Mickey Mouse
[Edited by john banks - 2/7/2002 5:18:47 PM]
#12
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Well said Mark, John, the three lights you mention are fine for boost but ... you can kill an engine with incorrect fueling off boost, given that we are paying attention to the whole map not just 20% of it then you are correct, my best afr meter is my digital voltmeter ... and a decent sensor. And the best knock detector is a set of det cans ... at least during the mapping.
[Edited by Bob Rawle - 2/7/2002 11:11:15 PM]
[Edited by Bob Rawle - 2/7/2002 11:11:15 PM]
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