HOT OIL.......WHICH ONE?
#1
RB5s' now up to 6600 miles and I'd like to give it an in-between oil and filter change myself,all the dealers want nearly 100 quid for this 1/2hr job,so I'll do it myself.Not a problem as I've already done one on this particular car before when I didn't think Clarkston Motors carried one out during a service.
The question is what oil,I used Mobil 0w-40 the last time, was that suitable ,whats best,synthetic,semi-synthetic,Mobil or Castrol.
£11 plus vat for a filter who thinks up these prices!!!!
The question is what oil,I used Mobil 0w-40 the last time, was that suitable ,whats best,synthetic,semi-synthetic,Mobil or Castrol.
£11 plus vat for a filter who thinks up these prices!!!!
#3
AAAAAARRRRRRGGGGGGHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Dont use 0W/40 mobil its way to thin
Mobil do a 15w/50 this is the one you need
Or the Castrol RS 10W/60
Or the Silkolene PRO that Scoobysport use!!
Cheers
Darren
Dont use 0W/40 mobil its way to thin
Mobil do a 15w/50 this is the one you need
Or the Castrol RS 10W/60
Or the Silkolene PRO that Scoobysport use!!
Cheers
Darren
#4
Ecu Specialist
Or Motul 300V 15:50 but as Darren said a 0w-40 is considered to be too thin under heavy load conditions ie high revs high load for prolonged periods.
Mobil do state that it is ok for the Subaru engine but that Subaru have only tested the 5w:40 grade which is still available. Subaru also states that 15w:50 (or 60) is recommended for "heavy" use.
Read the Big End no 3 thread for some opinion.
Mobil do state that it is ok for the Subaru engine but that Subaru have only tested the 5w:40 grade which is still available. Subaru also states that 15w:50 (or 60) is recommended for "heavy" use.
Read the Big End no 3 thread for some opinion.
#5
Hi there,
Noticed today at my local ford dealer that they sell Valvoline Racing 5W/50 fully synthetic....don't know thw price, but should be great for our cars!!
Rgrds
Noticed today at my local ford dealer that they sell Valvoline Racing 5W/50 fully synthetic....don't know thw price, but should be great for our cars!!
Rgrds
#7
I've been discussing this topic with various people for over 5 years. Finished up doing some oil analysis and getting some very interesting results.
In Australian conditions 10W40 oil is great in an EJ20T. That's why the factory reccommend it! Problem is that the factory don't take into consideration the degradation of oil over time. An oil that starts life with one set of properties can be a very different product when drained after "enthusiastic" use.
All oils change with time and use. Heavy work and high temps will accelerate this. Mineral oils are (generally) far more prone to this than synthetics BUT... many very well known and expensive oils are no-where near their original specifications after less than 5000km.
We know this because of doing oil analysis on various products in EJ20Ts and the results will stun you. I won't name any brands but even manufactures who claim their oils protect for ages came up very badly.
Do the tests and work out which oils are still servicable at the end of your change interval.
No, I won't say which oils didn't scrub up well cause it just starts arguments.
In Australian conditions 10W40 oil is great in an EJ20T. That's why the factory reccommend it! Problem is that the factory don't take into consideration the degradation of oil over time. An oil that starts life with one set of properties can be a very different product when drained after "enthusiastic" use.
All oils change with time and use. Heavy work and high temps will accelerate this. Mineral oils are (generally) far more prone to this than synthetics BUT... many very well known and expensive oils are no-where near their original specifications after less than 5000km.
We know this because of doing oil analysis on various products in EJ20Ts and the results will stun you. I won't name any brands but even manufactures who claim their oils protect for ages came up very badly.
Do the tests and work out which oils are still servicable at the end of your change interval.
No, I won't say which oils didn't scrub up well cause it just starts arguments.
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#8
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Hi Coyote,
Would you please E mail me off line and tell me how the the Castrol RS 10W/60 went in your tests as this is the oil I'm using and is very very expensive here in Greece. 5litres cost $125.00 AUD. If it's not up to the task I don't want to waste my money as I'm changing it exery 4000km. I won't argue with you either
WREXY.
Would you please E mail me off line and tell me how the the Castrol RS 10W/60 went in your tests as this is the oil I'm using and is very very expensive here in Greece. 5litres cost $125.00 AUD. If it's not up to the task I don't want to waste my money as I'm changing it exery 4000km. I won't argue with you either
WREXY.
#10
Coyote
Light the blue touch-paper and retire eh !!
Now that you`ve got us all running scared please supply info. on exactly what and how your tests were carried out otherwise we can not compare.
What, in your opinion are the manufacturers recommended oil change intervals based on ?
An important part of oil recommendations concerns the specific additive package that a particular brand contains and it`s application to the engine concerned. Whether motor vehicle manufacturers do this I don`t know, but other sections of industry do.
Info:
My servicing dealer has I know changed from the Shell Helix 10/40W semi-synthetic to another brand, again ????
I do know someone who has used the Mobil 1 0/40W in his import WRX for a few years with no problem to date.
Castrol 10/60W - when this was branded as RS some years ago I used it for 50,000 miles (5K changes) in a VW and the motor was superb.Then changed to Mobil 1 0/40W and immediately noticed an even better response on cold starting.
In short - a minefield !!
Cheers
Light the blue touch-paper and retire eh !!
Now that you`ve got us all running scared please supply info. on exactly what and how your tests were carried out otherwise we can not compare.
What, in your opinion are the manufacturers recommended oil change intervals based on ?
An important part of oil recommendations concerns the specific additive package that a particular brand contains and it`s application to the engine concerned. Whether motor vehicle manufacturers do this I don`t know, but other sections of industry do.
Info:
My servicing dealer has I know changed from the Shell Helix 10/40W semi-synthetic to another brand, again ????
I do know someone who has used the Mobil 1 0/40W in his import WRX for a few years with no problem to date.
Castrol 10/60W - when this was branded as RS some years ago I used it for 50,000 miles (5K changes) in a VW and the motor was superb.Then changed to Mobil 1 0/40W and immediately noticed an even better response on cold starting.
In short - a minefield !!
Cheers
#13
Oops.. I knew this would happen.
Everyone has stories to tell of engines that go for 20 years on one brand of oil and therefore it's the best. I've seen an EJ20T pulled down after 390000km and the crank still had original factory hone marks! So maybe it doesn't matter that much.
The point to me is that we are all enthusiasts and want to best protection for our engine. The best way I've found to accertain this is to actually test what comes out of the engine.
My tests are maybe not valid because I drive in a different climate to most of you, I use different fuel (I always use just one brand though), I do a lot of track km, I idle my engine for 5 minutes before driving, I have blue boxer shorts, etc, etc.. BUT doing the tests is still valid. That's the only way to find out how your oil is actually performing short of waiting for an engine failure of some sort.
Everyone has stories to tell of engines that go for 20 years on one brand of oil and therefore it's the best. I've seen an EJ20T pulled down after 390000km and the crank still had original factory hone marks! So maybe it doesn't matter that much.
The point to me is that we are all enthusiasts and want to best protection for our engine. The best way I've found to accertain this is to actually test what comes out of the engine.
My tests are maybe not valid because I drive in a different climate to most of you, I use different fuel (I always use just one brand though), I do a lot of track km, I idle my engine for 5 minutes before driving, I have blue boxer shorts, etc, etc.. BUT doing the tests is still valid. That's the only way to find out how your oil is actually performing short of waiting for an engine failure of some sort.
#14
Thanks all,went to Eaglesham,purchased 25litres of Shell Extec 15w/50 semi synth.
should do our RB5's a few oil changes.
£3.50 a litre .
P.S. I'll get the right forum the next time..
should do our RB5's a few oil changes.
£3.50 a litre .
P.S. I'll get the right forum the next time..
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Adam Kindness
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15 September 2015 03:31 PM