Anybody had any problems with MAF after removing resonator?
#1
I have fit an ITG panel filter on my MY95 WRX and was going to remover the resonator until I spoke to someone in chat last night that said this could be dangerous. Apparently, he did it and water drawn in splashed oil from the filter on to the MAF.
Anybody know if these problems are coming when removing the resonator or has anybody had more success and been happy?
Many thanks
Rikki
Anybody know if these problems are coming when removing the resonator or has anybody had more success and been happy?
Many thanks
Rikki
#4
Rikki, it was me you had the conversation with.
Just to make it perfectly clear ... I hate scaremongering myself, and chances are that you will never ever have a problem if you remove the resonator. Probably loads of people did it without ill effects.
But I thought it fair to warn that even little changes like this can potentially make things go pear-shaped. If you have any warrenty left, leave it be for the moment (you won't feel the alledged 2 BHP difference, really. Actually, I think it makes no difference at all now ). It will be OK 99.99 % of the time, but that 0.01 % almost killed my engine (fortunately we were just mapping the car and monitoring it closely through the Lambdalink and the Select Monitor.)
This was not on a rally stage, but on a smooth German Autobahn BTW... Splash came from the side (big truck).
Just be careful when you do it and there is a big rainstorm/big puddles, OK ? That's all I was trying to say really
Theo
Just to make it perfectly clear ... I hate scaremongering myself, and chances are that you will never ever have a problem if you remove the resonator. Probably loads of people did it without ill effects.
But I thought it fair to warn that even little changes like this can potentially make things go pear-shaped. If you have any warrenty left, leave it be for the moment (you won't feel the alledged 2 BHP difference, really. Actually, I think it makes no difference at all now ). It will be OK 99.99 % of the time, but that 0.01 % almost killed my engine (fortunately we were just mapping the car and monitoring it closely through the Lambdalink and the Select Monitor.)
This was not on a rally stage, but on a smooth German Autobahn BTW... Splash came from the side (big truck).
Just be careful when you do it and there is a big rainstorm/big puddles, OK ? That's all I was trying to say really
Theo
#6
Hi Theo
I remember that it was you. I wasn't discrediting your advise, I appreciate it, I wanted to get a feel for how common any problems are.
Barge
I did it last night. Took about 1.5 hours for me. Couple of fiddly nuts but not too bad. I removed the whol of the under wheel arch whereas I think you need only remove the front lower guard. Do a search on removing and resonator in Drivetrain and there are one or two good threads.
Not sure if it is in my mind but the car seems to pick up a little quicker and with the windows closed the dump valve is more noticable. Plus the car is lighter now
Thanks
Rikki
I remember that it was you. I wasn't discrediting your advise, I appreciate it, I wanted to get a feel for how common any problems are.
Barge
I did it last night. Took about 1.5 hours for me. Couple of fiddly nuts but not too bad. I removed the whol of the under wheel arch whereas I think you need only remove the front lower guard. Do a search on removing and resonator in Drivetrain and there are one or two good threads.
Not sure if it is in my mind but the car seems to pick up a little quicker and with the windows closed the dump valve is more noticable. Plus the car is lighter now
Thanks
Rikki
#7
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Presumably the problem is due to water (and other things) that get chucked up from the inside of the wheel arch?
It also seems to be a more common problem for people with the MY99> which has the more sensitive film type MAF.....
Has anybody thought about making up a pipe which connects the Airbox with the original air inlet (in a U shape) inside the engine bay? This would stop crap/water being injested would it not? A safe compromise perhaps?
And for those of you who say that they want the cold air in the wing vs the hot air in the engine bay, surely the front corner of the engine bay where the air intake is, is going to be nearly as cool as the wing as air is forcing it's way in there when the car is moving????
Any thoughts anybody?
Matt
It also seems to be a more common problem for people with the MY99> which has the more sensitive film type MAF.....
Has anybody thought about making up a pipe which connects the Airbox with the original air inlet (in a U shape) inside the engine bay? This would stop crap/water being injested would it not? A safe compromise perhaps?
And for those of you who say that they want the cold air in the wing vs the hot air in the engine bay, surely the front corner of the engine bay where the air intake is, is going to be nearly as cool as the wing as air is forcing it's way in there when the car is moving????
Any thoughts anybody?
Matt
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#8
When you're moving, I personally doubt that the air going into the kit is going to be much different whether sourced from the wing or engine bay.
Sitting at traffic lights may be slighty different, but when travelling at 30mph+, how much time does air have to actually get heated?
I'd be happy to have this theory picked to pieces as it's a fairly common sense approach that leads me to it, so unleash the dogs
Sitting at traffic lights may be slighty different, but when travelling at 30mph+, how much time does air have to actually get heated?
I'd be happy to have this theory picked to pieces as it's a fairly common sense approach that leads me to it, so unleash the dogs
#9
I was considering running some tubing from the whole in the wing leading in to the airbox to the vents in the front grille under the indicator. Any one tried this or have any views about the benefits?
I also heard about people sealing the whole in the wing !!??!! but that is leading straight in to the airbos, which leaves Rikki a little confused :\
I also heard about people sealing the whole in the wing !!??!! but that is leading straight in to the airbos, which leaves Rikki a little confused :\
#10
I was considering running some tubing from the whole in the wing leading in to the airbox to the vents in the front grille under the indicator. Any one tried this or have any views about the benefits?
I also heard about people sealing the whole in the wing !!??!! but that is leading straight in to the airbox, which leaves Rikki a little confused :\
I also heard about people sealing the whole in the wing !!??!! but that is leading straight in to the airbox, which leaves Rikki a little confused :\
#11
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<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:<HR>Originally posted by Rikki23:
<B>I was considering running some tubing from the whole in the wing leading in to the airbox to the vents in the front grille under the indicator. Any one tried this or have any views about the benefits?[/quote]
I believe that this is the standard "Cold Air Feed" pipe which you can buy. The general consensus seems to be that if you are going to do this then you must replace the OEM paper filter as the water that will get into the airbox in this configuration will destroy the filter. ITG is usually recommended but then that's another whole issue with regards to possible MAF contamination....
<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:<HR>Originally posted by Chiark:
<B>When you're moving, I personally doubt that the air going into the kit is going to be much different whether sourced from the wing or engine bay.[/quote]
Chiark, I agree with you, I was interested to see if there are others with different opinions....
<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:<HR>Originally posted by mutant_matt:
<B>Has anybody thought about making up a pipe which connects the Airbox with the original air inlet (in a U shape) inside the engine bay? This would stop crap/water being ingested would it not? A safe compromise perhaps? [/quote]
Anybody?????
Matt
<B>I was considering running some tubing from the whole in the wing leading in to the airbox to the vents in the front grille under the indicator. Any one tried this or have any views about the benefits?[/quote]
I believe that this is the standard "Cold Air Feed" pipe which you can buy. The general consensus seems to be that if you are going to do this then you must replace the OEM paper filter as the water that will get into the airbox in this configuration will destroy the filter. ITG is usually recommended but then that's another whole issue with regards to possible MAF contamination....
<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:<HR>Originally posted by Chiark:
<B>When you're moving, I personally doubt that the air going into the kit is going to be much different whether sourced from the wing or engine bay.[/quote]
Chiark, I agree with you, I was interested to see if there are others with different opinions....
<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:<HR>Originally posted by mutant_matt:
<B>Has anybody thought about making up a pipe which connects the Airbox with the original air inlet (in a U shape) inside the engine bay? This would stop crap/water being ingested would it not? A safe compromise perhaps? [/quote]
Anybody?????
Matt
#12
We had a MAF failure at a track day yesterday...on a car with the resonator removed (stock filter), on a dry track.
The same car has blown a MAF earlier, but with a Blitz induction kit on that time.
I think I'll just remove mine and sell it later on when FUJI's stocks are depleted.
/J
The same car has blown a MAF earlier, but with a Blitz induction kit on that time.
I think I'll just remove mine and sell it later on when FUJI's stocks are depleted.
/J
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