Link Setup
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I installed the Possumlink into my 99 STI V. The fuel consumption is a big concern right now! It can be run only 260km only from full tank! The setting is out of the box setting! And, does anyone know how to tune the idle? The porblem is that when I left off the gas, the needle drops, (i.e. drop from 4000 rpm to idle) the car choking at aorund 2400 rpm and towards 1000 rpm. I try to adjust the zones 17 and 18 but the problem still comes out! I'm suffer in Possumlink for 4 months!
Thanks!
Thanks!
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Can't help you on that but by the way, there was a joke, my friend's WRX engine blew up and his rear bumper melted (caught fire) at the track the second day after installing.
Maybe nothing wrong with the system, or maybe its the turner that sucks but no matter what it is always a good practice to watch carefully on the boost guage and exhaust temp (install more guages if can afford), just in case.
[This message has been edited by Hyperex (edited 12 July 2001).]
Maybe nothing wrong with the system, or maybe its the turner that sucks but no matter what it is always a good practice to watch carefully on the boost guage and exhaust temp (install more guages if can afford), just in case.
[This message has been edited by Hyperex (edited 12 July 2001).]
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First...are you running with the lambda- and knocklink modules installed? If not, get them ASAP.
This will help you check fuelling and see to it that the car isn't detting.
A boost gauge is needed as well...without one you could (almost) just as well blow it up with some tnt right now.
Which version of the link is it? The new PCLink that can have the map up/downloaded through a laptop, or the older one?
The new link has 10 rows in the map, and can run revs up to 10000 rpm, so the map has been increased, as well as it's got higher "resolution" than the older one.
Anyway, I've seen the stock map in the <B>new</B> pclink, and it runs *very* rich, and a bit hot on both ignition advance and boost (with my lowly euro spec Impreza reference values ).
Check with the lambdalink, you can probably decrease master fuel quite a bit...green leds on power, no leds on cruising (way off boost), and a nice transition in between.
Idle is a chapter on it's own...get the engine to working temp, set CLAMP at 35 (I think it is that already, but check it), idle will get rough, adjust ZF105 (if IDLE set at 800 rpm) until idle stabilizes, you're looking for an idle that doesn't start light up the lambdalink like a christmas tree...
Stable idle with no leds is the goal here. You may have to adjust the ignition in the same idle zone (ZI105 if idle is set at 800).
The idle stepper motor (ISC isn't it?) is of importance as well, at the IDLE screen there's a value in brackets, when hot, with no fans or aircon running this is the value it runs at, zone 18 should be set a few clicks above this value.
Zone 17, isn't that overrun vacuum?
Leave that one at 24. (Zone 18 should be adjusted after CLAMP, and fuelling for the related idle zone has been altered.)
Fuelling, ignition and boost zones are better adjusted in your particular car by someone with knowledge of the impreza and the link, this is dangerous stuff.
On full chat....basically, you're aiming for the green area on the lambdalink, with no knocks. And on cruise (just rolling with no load) you should run with no leds lit, or just the reds/orange flickering.
You need a nice transition from cruise to full power.
Bear in mind that the lambdasensor reads lean when hot, do a few runs, let it cool off in between.
Sounds like an easy task?
Last but most important, keep track of changes, take small steps, one adjustment at a time, and be *careful*.
Try to find someone near you with a Link, and have a look at his map for reference.
If you're not into studying, and fiddling for 3 days to get something as trivial as to get the idle stable, I'd have a chat with the lads at BRDevelopments to see if they could arrange something.
/J
[This message has been edited by SecretAgentMan (edited 12 July 2001).]
This will help you check fuelling and see to it that the car isn't detting.
A boost gauge is needed as well...without one you could (almost) just as well blow it up with some tnt right now.
Which version of the link is it? The new PCLink that can have the map up/downloaded through a laptop, or the older one?
The new link has 10 rows in the map, and can run revs up to 10000 rpm, so the map has been increased, as well as it's got higher "resolution" than the older one.
Anyway, I've seen the stock map in the <B>new</B> pclink, and it runs *very* rich, and a bit hot on both ignition advance and boost (with my lowly euro spec Impreza reference values
).Check with the lambdalink, you can probably decrease master fuel quite a bit...green leds on power, no leds on cruising (way off boost), and a nice transition in between.
Idle is a chapter on it's own...get the engine to working temp, set CLAMP at 35 (I think it is that already, but check it), idle will get rough, adjust ZF105 (if IDLE set at 800 rpm) until idle stabilizes, you're looking for an idle that doesn't start light up the lambdalink like a christmas tree...
Stable idle with no leds is the goal here. You may have to adjust the ignition in the same idle zone (ZI105 if idle is set at 800).The idle stepper motor (ISC isn't it?) is of importance as well, at the IDLE screen there's a value in brackets, when hot, with no fans or aircon running this is the value it runs at, zone 18 should be set a few clicks above this value.
Zone 17, isn't that overrun vacuum?
Leave that one at 24. (Zone 18 should be adjusted after CLAMP, and fuelling for the related idle zone has been altered.)
Fuelling, ignition and boost zones are better adjusted in your particular car by someone with knowledge of the impreza and the link, this is dangerous stuff.
On full chat....basically, you're aiming for the green area on the lambdalink, with no knocks.
And on cruise (just rolling with no load) you should run with no leds lit, or just the reds/orange flickering.You need a nice transition from cruise to full power.
Bear in mind that the lambdasensor reads lean when hot, do a few runs, let it cool off in between.
Sounds like an easy task?
Last but most important, keep track of changes, take small steps, one adjustment at a time, and be *careful*.
Try to find someone near you with a Link, and have a look at his map for reference.
If you're not into studying, and fiddling for 3 days to get something as trivial as to get the idle stable, I'd have a chat with the lads at BRDevelopments to see if they could arrange something.
/J
[This message has been edited by SecretAgentMan (edited 12 July 2001).]
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U bet
We turnips learn fast...
Think of me as the international version of Adam...I hear what intelligent peeps say, I read alot...then I just repeat what I find out.
The way to sort my particular idle problem is something I found out all by myself though, spank U very much!
/JMan - Link-guru-ish-wannabee
[This message has been edited by SecretAgentMan (edited 12 July 2001).]
We turnips learn fast...
Think of me as the international version of Adam...I hear what intelligent peeps say, I read alot...then I just repeat what I find out.
The way to sort my particular idle problem is something I found out all by myself though, spank U very much!
/JMan - Link-guru-ish-wannabee
[This message has been edited by SecretAgentMan (edited 12 July 2001).]
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It's (almost) imposssible to get stable idle without getting the Lambdalink to show rich.
My idle problem is with air con on,the Lambda Link is a X mas tree but as soon as the air con cuts out,Lambda Link shows rich.The Link manual state that idle is set rich to acheive a stable idle.
Any Link gurus or wannabe can suggest or help me out on this?
Chan HT
My idle problem is with air con on,the Lambda Link is a X mas tree but as soon as the air con cuts out,Lambda Link shows rich.The Link manual state that idle is set rich to acheive a stable idle.
Any Link gurus or wannabe can suggest or help me out on this?
Chan HT
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I had the same problem Chan.
Set CLAMP at 35, you'll then probably have to increase fuel in your idle zone (probably 105) to get it stable, get it stable with no leds/as few as possible lit on fully warmed up idle, with no load (fan, A/C).
My A/C lights up the first orange led, when it comes off all leds are off.
My car is an MY00 (v5), with a 01 March something chip in the Link ECU.
How does it idle then after A/C comes off? Does it stay high for a long period, to come down slowly?
/J
Set CLAMP at 35, you'll then probably have to increase fuel in your idle zone (probably 105) to get it stable, get it stable with no leds/as few as possible lit on fully warmed up idle, with no load (fan, A/C).
My A/C lights up the first orange led, when it comes off all leds are off.
My car is an MY00 (v5), with a 01 March something chip in the Link ECU.
How does it idle then after A/C comes off? Does it stay high for a long period, to come down slowly?
/J
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With 15,000 plus miles on the K series Link and nearly 3,000 with the N series Link idle can be achieved without the car running rich.
If it is N series you will need to adjust zone 18. The default value for the stepper is 80, mine runs best with 82 and an idle rpm of 800. Some cars will require settings much lower at 65. It depends on your car setup.
With the older K series, zone 17, Inlet Air Temp will need to be adjusted alongside the fueling and clamp.
Just some thoughts.
Trout
If it is N series you will need to adjust zone 18. The default value for the stepper is 80, mine runs best with 82 and an idle rpm of 800. Some cars will require settings much lower at 65. It depends on your car setup.
With the older K series, zone 17, Inlet Air Temp will need to be adjusted alongside the fueling and clamp.
Just some thoughts.
Trout
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So collecting all guys's comments, the Lambdalink is very useful. I plan to install it in this few days. So any modification to the O2 sensor in order to install the Lambdalink? Other issue is that the chip is N series, I realise that the turbo spool up very quick, the boost setting it 230KPA = 1.3 bars. I notice the boost guage the boost comes to 1.49 bar in WOT! So now I limit to lower boost! The extra 0.19 bar because of the power flow and the gorup N exhaust, so how could I slow down the spool up respond?
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Hello,
My LINK chip says the following:
WRX97P
775
How do I know if it is a K series or N series, and if my LINK ECU is for a MY98 STi can it be upgraded to the new LINK PC chip ..... if so were can I get this chip from.
Thanx,
Carlos H.
My LINK chip says the following:
WRX97P
775
How do I know if it is a K series or N series, and if my LINK ECU is for a MY98 STi can it be upgraded to the new LINK PC chip ..... if so were can I get this chip from.
Thanx,
Carlos H.
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I'm ordering a chip to upgrade my Link to the "PC link" version, it's soooo sweet to be able to up/download the map from a laptop.
The resolution has been increased as well, there's one more row between full vacuum and 100 kpa (0 on the boost gauge), and 2 more between 100 kpa and 220 (~1.2 bars of boost)...and it'll let U rev to 10k and boost like a madman.
Beebone>>Be careful...
/J
The resolution has been increased as well, there's one more row between full vacuum and 100 kpa (0 on the boost gauge), and 2 more between 100 kpa and 220 (~1.2 bars of boost)...and it'll let U rev to 10k and boost like a madman.
Beebone>>Be careful...
/J
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..forgot that the new PCLink spec has gone from % in the fuel zones (don't U just hate those 3 clicks... 
) for absolute.
Great stuff, pain in the ole' ar$e to convert the old map tho.
/J
[This message has been edited by SecretAgentMan (edited 15 July 2001).]
) for absolute.Great stuff, pain in the ole' ar$e to convert the old map tho.
/J
[This message has been edited by SecretAgentMan (edited 15 July 2001).]
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Thanks Jerry,my car is MY98 and I have try adjusting so many things,clamps,IAT,Z18,Z19,idle valve,ZF100-110,Zi100-110,etc,etc and the idle is still rich when A/C cuts out and it idle perfect.If I reduce all those above values and acheive a single red or orange Lambda light,the very second the A/C cuts in,the idle is unstable and engine sometimes stall.Bob is right,it work on your car but not on pre MY99.A mate of mine with same MY as me aslo have the same problem and we even exchange notes and he gave up and stick his factory ECU back as he cannot live with rich idle when A/C cuts out.Me,I have to live with it.
Anyone out there with pre MY99(apart from my mate who is also in the list) with Link have this kind of rich idle?
Chan HT
Anyone out there with pre MY99(apart from my mate who is also in the list) with Link have this kind of rich idle?
Chan HT
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