Tone Loc

iTrader: (1)

Just been looking closely at my knocklink readings and would like a bit of advice. The sensor is mounted on the engine block under the IC (same as in the popular Jan Shim pic) and the sensitivity turned to max. The car is a MY93 WRX remapped (basically Prodrive MY96 map) running 16.5 psi. It's run on Esso SUL with NF one shot OB. At full throttle in high gears at high revs the red light comes on.... this is the only time the red light comes on tho. The ECU appears to not do anything about this or is very slow at retarding the ignition.

Could this be engine noise, remebering its now getting on a bit (nearly ten years old!!!).... so should i turn down the sensitivity a touch????

Any advice would be much appreciated.

Tony.

RT

MY01 JDM STI RA 33000kms.
KL max sensitivity, sensor mounted on block below intercooler.

IIRC, I've only ever seen my red twice. Once was when 1 spark plug blew (Denso Iridium IK22), and the other was when I booted it in 3rd gear with the intercooler at 45degC.

The car holds approx 1.15-1.2bar max. Most of the time I only get 1 green with WOT, sometimes 1 green and the other green intermittent, at high rpms.

Tone Loc

iTrader: (1)

Sounds about right for your age of car. With mine being an old banger im hoping it's engine noise it's picking up and not the dreaded det.

Does anybody run with the sensitivity turned down?

Tony.

Gez

I wouldnt worry too much. A mate of mine who has Scoob MY2000 was getting red light for a split second started to get worried. Eventually we found that it was the way he was changing gear. Basically he was banging every gear in and the Knocklink picked it up as background noise. Does yours light up just as you are about to change gear/ during gear change????

Cheers

Gez

AndrewSTI-V

How much is a knocklink and where can i purchase one of these?
Thanks

Rich Tee

Tone,

I've got an my93 wrx which has got a remap to 0.9bar.

also put a dawes on it and was running 1.1 bar constant, 1.2 bar peak this was giving me know problems.

Since then fitted decat d/p and also up pipe, boost crept up to 1.2 bar and 1.3 bar peak.

When this happened knocklink was hitting red under full load in 5th and also somethimes 4th.

have since taken the dawes off, and am running around 1 bar (give r take)

all red lights know gone, no engine noise at all.

my assumption is that there is too much boost, without chaning fuel settings and also poss needs better intercooler, so these are next on the list, and then a remap.

Rich

Pavlo

Tone,

I would think it unlikely that you would get any det above about 5500rpm. Possibly, but less likely than say 3500-4500 which are the prime suspects.

More to be done however.

Paul

Tone Loc

iTrader: (1)

Don't know if this helps but........... When i rev the engine while standing still the bottom light comes on around the 5500 rpm mark.... where im getting the red light while under full load. Does anybody else get any lights while reving the cars stood still??? This could indicate my engine is noisy and therefore needs the sensitivity trimmed down...... maybe

Tony.

The TunnelMeister

Hi Tony,

nope, no lights when rev'd stationary. Just remember the sensor is basically a mic 'tuned' to pick up certain frequencies?

Looking at age (with respect), the mods and the revs your talking about, you could have a lot going on in/around the engine!

For what its worth, I sat with the engine ticking over earlier and simply went thru' the gears, inc. reverse with clutch in, briskly. I managed to get the first green to flash!

I'd check with some of the guy's that know, but I think your right to alter the sensitivity. (After all, that's what it says to do in the instructions!)

Good luck.





[Edited by The TunnelMeister - 10/14/2002 10:17:25 PM]

Dyney

If your worried get it on the rollers!!!!!
If you adjust it down and it gives out you'll be pi££ed!!!

I've got a MY97 with over 90k on, running a Dawes and I only get 1 green and intermitant 2nd green when really giving it some!

Tone Loc

iTrader: (1)

I know what your saying Dyney... but my brother-in-law has a catalunya (MY97) with over 100k on it and the engine purrs compared to mine!

Tony.

Scott.T

iTrader: (2)

Knock is a sudden change in noise, so if the LED comes on qucikly rather then building from the greens to the red then it's possibly knock.

If they all come on sequentially as the revs increase it's probably engien noise.

See http://www.mrtrally.com.au/forums/to...p?TOPIC_ID=471 if you havn't done so already.

Rejoin Link 'J1' in the ECU and see if it still does it. This will cause it to run from the standard map.

It might also be heastshield rattle... as mine rattle like hell (must really get it sorted)

Tone Loc

iTrader: (1)

Hi Scott,

I've been thinking about taking the chip out and soldering the link back and see what it does on the normal map. Pity my soldering technique is **** .

I'll probably have a go on Saturday.... other bits of soldering need to be done for the IC water spray so would be a good time. Or do you know any other way of rejoining the connection that's a bit quicker?

Cheers,

Tony.

[Edited by Tone Loc - 10/15/2002 1:12:42 PM]

Scott.T

iTrader: (2)

If it's using the 'Perfamnce' Igntion Map for 93-96 Impreza's it does have alot of advance at high revs compared to s standard 94WRX map. But the fuelling is alot better.

It has no more advance than the Japanese PROVA map that is probably in many WRX's and has been for many years.

[Edited by Scott.T - 10/15/2002 5:26:15 PM]

TBMeech

MY99 STI-V (Linked), Running 1.6 bar (peak) 1.45 bar held of boost, knocklink turned to the max, never get above the 2nd light on knock running Optimax and 100ml of NF if that helps....never seen the red light on mine, tho have a friend whos Sti-V also ran no knock, then......booom

Scott.T

iTrader: (2)

I normally fit a bit of socket strip to the 'J1' link so that a small piece if wire can be inserted to bridge the gap, if required (or in my own case, I have a switch).

I guesse that Dave didn't do this on yours then

Tone Loc

iTrader: (1)

I don't think he did.... no worries tho i'll get the soldering iron out to bridge it.

Be interesting to see if the knocklink registers the same activity.

Tony.

David_Wallis

I didnt actually think to do this... I presume the resistor is a 0 ohm one then and can be removed?

Scott.T

iTrader: (2)

Yep, resistor measures doo didley ohms

Use a piece of SIL socket strip (Berger Strip) with 0.1 pitch.
Cut 3 sockets then snip the pin out of the middle one. This will then fit nicely into the 'J1' location. Fill the middle Pin with solder so that it doesn't get used.

I hope you understand all that !!!!!!!!!!

Gez

Sorry to divert from the topic slightly but does anyone have a photograph of where the Knocklink mic is placed on the engine block?

Many thanks

Gerry

Tone Loc

iTrader: (1)

Hi,

Go to the i-club site and do a search for knocklink.... you'll find a nice pic by Jan Shim.

Been watching the knocklink very carefully and it's a very progressive rise as the revs increase from green to orange then to red.... no sudden jumps. This would be consistent with engine noise.... knock is very sudden changes?????

Tony.

Gez

i-club???? Could you post the url if poss.

Much appreciated

Gez

Tone Loc

iTrader: (1)

I think it's www.i-club.com

Tony.

WREXY

Here you go.

http://i-club.com/forums/showthread....threadid=72454

Cheers,

Wrexy.

Gez

Hey Wrexy how you doing mate! Sorry havent emailed you been vvvv busy. Booked a ticket for 2nd November. Ive also got a load of stuff 4 you! Didnt send it as it was way too expensive so wasnt worth it.

Speak to yoy soon.

Gerry