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6 speed gearbox into a bugeye wagon.. but keep my 5 x 100 hubs ?

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Old 11 October 2020, 08:22 PM
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anthonymcgrath
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Default 6 speed gearbox into a bugeye wagon.. but keep my 5 x 100 hubs ?

Hi all
ok ive done a bunch of reading on gbox swaps.. 6 speed seems to be the answer for stronger power.

Im less concerned about making big power as i am about the increase in response and driveability in the twisties i should see. The current 5 speed i have with the vf35 is quite laggy.. and also feels like it doesnt have much left in it!

so i have managed to find quite a few 6 speeds and r180 diffs.. but.. is it possible i can keep the same hubs i have or will wrx driveshafts not fit ?

I would really like to keep my 5 x100 hubs as the wheels i have are really nice and i dont want to go through the hassle of sourcing new wheels and potentially new brakes too.

just wondering what my options are thanks!
ant
Old 12 October 2020, 11:26 AM
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NOSSY_89
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The VF35 shouldn't be that laggy. I would suggest Harvey Smith up pipe if you haven't already and a map tweak to go with it.

You should be able to keep your wheels any way, I think I mentioned something on the other thread.
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Old 12 October 2020, 12:32 PM
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Originally Posted by NOSSY_89
The VF35 shouldn't be that laggy. I would suggest Harvey Smith up pipe if you haven't already and a map tweak to go with it.

You should be able to keep your wheels any way, I think I mentioned something on the other thread.
Yeah its only really coming on full boost (12psi for me) at 4500rpm really.. everything up to that is a bit lacking.. i think it does need a tune.. got a boost controller in there too altho right now just an expensive boost gauge lol! It literally needs plugging in but gonna let smarter heads do that one not me. i think its basically running actuator pressure right now.

anyway regarding the 6 speed im told a non dccd is best to go for which is fine for me i dont need to faff on with the diff settings and adjustment personally i just want the increase in driveability really. If i can keep current hubs I'll be very happy. Power isn't my goal.. just turning it into something that drives really nice with response and handling and stopping power is good enough for me 👍🏽
Old 12 October 2020, 12:57 PM
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NOSSY_89
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That doesn't sound right at all mate. Has it had a map for the new turbo at all then. Have a look at headers too like the RCM/GT.
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Old 12 October 2020, 02:10 PM
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Originally Posted by NOSSY_89
That doesn't sound right at all mate. Has it had a map for the new turbo at all then. Have a look at headers too like the RCM/GT.
yeah it's defo running safe i would say.. the engine has been replaced.. ej207 brand new.. cossie head gasket arp studs.. heads refreshed (wrx dont have the adjustable cam). Then it has aftermarket downpipe.. up pipe.. centre section and exhaust. Air filter still oem. The engine mounts and gbox mount are hardrace.. i keep twiddling lol.
but yeah i need to take it someone who really knows their onions on these cars. Im not clued up on the scooby side of tuning.
Old 12 October 2020, 05:07 PM
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i find the vf35 spools very quick on mine, hardly any lag at all (2.0). Something dosen't seem right or the turbo is on its way out. What sort of pressure does it pull?
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Old 12 October 2020, 07:51 PM
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Originally Posted by pjarvis6666
i find the vf35 spools very quick on mine, hardly any lag at all (2.0). Something dosen't seem right or the turbo is on its way out. What sort of pressure does it pull?
turbo got checked less than 3000 miles ago its rock solid and it was stripped cleaned and balanced. Turbo shop said it was super clean with no leaks. Its not been past 13psi in my ownership since rebuild. Its very smooth no smoke at all. I think it is just not quite setup correctly.

can anyone gimme some 6 speed info whilst we are here lol.. im thinking non dccd and i think i need an r180 diff too but then driveshafts for my hubs are the not so sure areas for me.
Old 12 October 2020, 10:13 PM
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If it's a UK 6-speed, you could use a 3.545 r160 rear diff (the '06-'07 Hawk wrx r160 was 3.7). Wagon rear driveshafts are 10mm shorter, each side, than the saloon.
If it's a JDM 6-speed, you need a 3.9 rear diff.
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Old 12 October 2020, 11:00 PM
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Originally Posted by 2pot
If it's a UK 6-speed, you could use a 3.545 r160 rear diff (the '06-'07 Hawk wrx r160 was 3.7). Wagon rear driveshafts are 10mm shorter, each side, than the saloon.
If it's a JDM 6-speed, you need a 3.9 rear diff.
ah cheers dude so basically if i source a uk 6 speed then i need r160 diff 3.545 or 3.7 is that right?

and then regarding driveshafts they are 10mm shorter front and back.. so.. i would need to get all of them adjusted to be 10mm longer ? Or is there a set i can get that will solve this?

thanks for the advice !
ant
Old 13 October 2020, 10:21 AM
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It has to be a 3.545 rear diff with a UK 6-speed box - the propshaft spins more slowly on the UK versions, due to a 1:1:1 drop gear.

You could put the R180 diff flange onto the r160 diff, making a neat fit to the 6-speed prop.

Use can use your existing rear drive shafts, if using r160 rear diff - your current diff should be r160 (I don't know what ratio it is?)

I think your year of car used female front shafts, so:
https://www.importcarparts.co.uk/par...ub=183&sec=349
Or, use male front shafts from a wagon (assuming the abs pick up's are in the same place?) Wagon front shafts are shorter, as the GD wagon front track is the same as the GC.
You could change to GC aluminium lower control arms, on your wagon, if you change the front GC bush to a GD bush - you'd also need to change to GD aluminium arm drop links and front bar. If you have a later wagon with auto headlight adjust, you'd need to weld a bracket onto the GC arm, to hold to adjuster.
If you changed to the longer male shafts, from a 5 x 100pcd GD saloon, you could use GD saloon aluminium front lower control arms - again, you'd also need to change to GD aluminium arm drop links and front bar.

Last edited by 2pot; 13 October 2020 at 10:39 AM.
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Old 13 October 2020, 11:21 AM
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Originally Posted by 2pot
It has to be a 3.545 rear diff with a UK 6-speed box - the propshaft spins more slowly on the UK versions, due to a 1:1:1 drop gear.

You could put the R180 diff flange onto the r160 diff, making a neat fit to the 6-speed prop.

Use can use your existing rear drive shafts, if using r160 rear diff - your current diff should be r160 (I don't know what ratio it is?)

I think your year of car used female front shafts, so:
https://www.importcarparts.co.uk/par...ub=183&sec=349
Or, use male front shafts from a wagon (assuming the abs pick up's are in the same place?) Wagon front shafts are shorter, as the GD wagon front track is the same as the GC.
You could change to GC aluminium lower control arms, on your wagon, if you change the front GC bush to a GD bush - you'd also need to change to GD aluminium arm drop links and front bar. If you have a later wagon with auto headlight adjust, you'd need to weld a bracket onto the GC arm, to hold to adjuster.
If you changed to the longer male shafts, from a 5 x 100pcd GD saloon, you could use GD saloon aluminium front lower control arms - again, you'd also need to change to GD aluminium arm drop links and front bar.
Wow great reply

ok thanks so rear diff ratio...
3.545 for uk 6 speed
3.9 for jdm 6 speed

I think my 02 bugeye wagon r160 is 3.545 ...looking at this thread (below) a few ppl say an 06/07 STI 6 speed mates up nicely.. im guessing I'll need to source a non dccd one too if thats a thing...
https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/sho....php?t=1682110

the confusion comes in the driveshafts.. so with the existing r160 rear diff i have i should just need the adaptor 160 to 180 plate.. and that will let me keep my rear driveshafts.

then the issue is fronts.. where i can use ICP conversion kit to connect to my hubs... i think i have that correct?

im a bit lost on the extra GC GD arms tho... if i went with the ICP conversion kit i guess i dont need to faff with that stuff?



Old 13 October 2020, 11:40 AM
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If you got a GD auto prop you could bolt directly to the r160 diff flange.

If you locate a non-dccd 6-speed you may find it has no mechanical speedo drive, in which case you'll need this:

https://mapdccd.com/vss.html
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Old 13 October 2020, 11:46 AM
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anthonymcgrath
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Originally Posted by 2pot
If you got a GD auto prop you could bolt directly to the r160 diff flange.

If you locate a non-dccd 6-speed you may find it has no mechanical speedo drive, in which case you'll need this:

https://mapdccd.com/vss.html
ok thanks

this seems like its gonna be a 4k+ all-in setup. The money doesnt bother me its mostly the time and me getting the wrong parts.

Im gonna need to chat to some spods at somewhere like the scooby clinic (no clue if they are good or not.. its just the first place i know).. to get some advice on what i can and cant do. I think I'm most of the way there with understanding what parts but i dont wanna get something wrong and have the car sat for months doing nowt while i source these bits or worse end up guessing.

Good news on the GD auto prop tho being direct fit
Old 19 October 2020, 11:12 AM
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I thought i would add an update.. ok so over wkend i got my greddy profec plugged in and we set up.. 53% duty and 2% gain.. it picks up so strong now.. makes 13-13.5psi which is where it was tuned to (actually a bit more i think but I'm happy to stay in limits).. response change is HUUUUGE.. i mean it used to struggle to get to 11psi at in third at 6000 and now it makes that from below 4000 which im happy with. Massive driveability change 😃

so regarding gearbox i dont want to push it much harder because of oem glass 5 speed but i will be looking to pull it soon and perhaps get it reconditioned and possibly dog gear set too lol.

I'll still keep eyes out for a 6 speed setup that i can drop in and perhaps use those ICP bits to convert the front driveshaft but need to see what i can do with the 5 speed first too 👍🏽
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