Rich @ PB

iTrader: (3)

A trip north to Cullen for Clark and I yesterday, to do an 02 plate Impreza STI. The car was only recently purchased, and the owner had subsequently noticed a few scratches and scuffs he wanted sorting out. A full detail was agreed, with winter protection also high on the agenda. As if often the case, “a few scratches and scuffs” turned out to be a complete nightmare when we flicked the halogens on! Here’s the process and pics…

Wash

Foamed with mix of CG Maxi Suds II and PW Slick & Suds via the Gilmour
Arches blasted with the Karcher and treated with Megs Safe Degreaser cut 4:1
Alloys treated with Megs Wheel Brightener cut 4:1
Lower panels treated with Autobrite Tar & Glue Remover
Whole car washed by hand using two buckets/Megs Lambswool Mitts
Whole car dried with PW Waffle Weave Towels







Clean

The fingertip test revealed no bonded surface contaminants, so no claying was done (the tar and glue remover did a good job!)

Polish

Bonnet – we didn’t need the paint gauge readings of 240 microns plus to tell us the bonnet had been resprayed at some point in the past, due to the massive amount of orange peel (see centre right of image below) and unpopped air bubbles on it. However, it turned out it was only done two weeks ago, and the body shop had given it back to the owner like this…



Yikes! However, with plenty of paint to play with Clark set to with the rotary and CG Diamond Cut 1000/2000 using Megs Polishing Pads. Multiple attempts later, 95%+ correction was achieved, and the orange peel was thoroughly knocked back. However, this made the unpopped air bubbles and few remaining, deeper bodyshop inflicted swirls much more noticeable, so the owner is going to pay a return visit to the bodyshop to complain – he hadn’t realised just how poor the work was until he saw it under the halogens. The air bubbles are the main problem, as if they rise any further in the future (remember how hot Impreza bonnets get after a good run) they may burst and cause peeling.

While Clark tackled the bonnet, I tackled the roof, which comprised a mosaic of wash/brush marks and deeper random scratches. I went with Blackfire SRC Compound by PC using a 7.5” Lake Country Orange Light Cut Pad, followed up with Blackfire SRC Finishing Polish via PC using a 7.5”Lake Country Green Polishing Pad. This enabled around 95% correction, with some of the deeper random scratches remaining, but with an average of 84 microns left (86 to begin with) I wasn’t prepared to cut any harder. For the last roof section I swapped the Blackfire SRC Compound for CG Diamond Cut 2000, and found it performed almost equally as well, and buffed off a bit easier too. Here’s some before and afters…

Before…



After…



With the bonnet and the roof done, we then tag-teamed the rest of the car, with one of us leading with the compound, and one of us following up with the finishing Polish. We started out with me compounding, but after a couple of panels we found that neither Blackfire SRC Compound, CG Diamond Cut 2000 or CG Diamond Cut 1000 were shifting the defects (even after switching to a 7.5” Lake Country Yellow Cutting Pad), so we switched, with Clark then using the rotary to compound and me following up with the PC (using same pads as before). For the next few panels Clark struggled with the CG Diamond Cut 2000, as no matter what he did the polish would not spread properly – weirdest thing either of us has ever seen, it was like the pad had a hold of the polish and the paint just would not take it. Nothing had changed in the method since the bonnet, which perplexed us even more. A switch to Optimum Polish (using up old used stock!) solved the problem in one fell swoop, and soon we were motoring on. The reason for the issue with the CG polish remains a mystery! Here’s a few before and afters as we moved around the car…

Before…



After…



Before…



After…



Some panels were sitting below 85 microns, and only got Blackfire SRC Finishing Polish by PC – this did not remove all of the defects, but again, we weren’t prepared to cut any harder, as preserving the long-term integrity of the clear coat was in our minds. Here’s Clark tackling one of the doors…



We finished up the polish stage with a coat of Jeffs Werkstatt Prime Acrylic by PC using a 7.5” Lake Country Black Glazing Pad – this removed any remaining traces of the slightly greasy residue left by the Blackfire SRC Finishing Polish, and left the surface ready for the application of final protective layer. Prime is definitely better applied using softer foam pads.

Protect

Jeffs Werkstatt Acrylic Jett Trigger, applied with the wipe on, wipe off method using PW Deluxe Mega Towels

Finishing Touches

All panel gaps dusted down with Megs Slide Lock Brushes
Alloys were protected with Poorboys Wheel Sealant
Tyres were dressed with Blackfire Long Lasting Tyre Gel
Windows inside and out were cleaned with Megs NXT Glass Cleaner

And here’s the afters…











All in all, it was a 12 hour detail, and a 16 hour day for Clark, as he also had to drive to my place at the start and end of the day! Roll on next spring when such jobs can be done in much easier conditions over two days at the new unit. I have to say this was a tough car to do, and the level of correction per panel varied from 99% to just 50% (the rear bumper was a disaster even after Menzerna Power Gloss by PC, due to being scratched through to the pigment layer in many places). I have seen a trend lately for bragging about short work times – this one took 12 hours between two of us, and if either of us had been on our own we would have been coming back the next day. Make of that what you will!

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Just been sent some daytime pictures taken this morning by the owner. Here they are...

AJF

iTrader: (1)

how much is some thing like this


Adrian

The Rig

iTrader: (13)

Black is always a bugger for swirls etc !

my white classic has some paint defects,mainly the white not matching, would these polishes resolve this or is it if the paints not right its not right ?

scoobyverysoon

iTrader: (1)

- quality that - welldone as always

Rich @ PB

iTrader: (3)

We charge £20 an hour, and the length of each job depends on the severity of the defects, but usually in the range 8-12 hours.

Rich @ PB

iTrader: (3)

Depends on whether the mismatch is due to pigment variation (in which case needs a respray) or whether it's due to varying degress of oxidation (which can be machined out no problem). The only way to tell would be to have two mis matched panels done and view the end results before deciding on the way forward.

JohnS

iTrader: (1)

I'm sure I recognise that car. I think I know one of the previous owners, though he swapped it about 3 years ago.

Looking very shiny now!!

John

Kuro

Well, that's not too bad - considering it includes all of the kit

On average (tricky to answer I know) how long will a treatment like that tend to last before it needs doing again..? I suppose you'd want to maintain the look as long as possible...

My 350Z's paintwork has looked better, and it could do with the PB treatment. (I saw your previous 350Z effort, and that was awesome!)

Seriously considering this for next year, spring perhaps.

K

Rich @ PB

iTrader: (3)

If you look after your car properly this type of treatment should never need doing! This is really full on compounding of the paint, most well looked after cars should only ever need a light machine polish once a year to keep the paint spot on, which would take a few hours compared to this job. It will be easy for the owner to maintain this finish well into next year - all he needs to do is wash it regularly using good products and methods (full guide on the website, plus decent wash kits), and top up the last step product (in this case an easy to apply spray sealant) every 4-6 weeks. We'll be into a smart new unit in the spring.

Rasher

cracking job Rich, as usual

AJF

iTrader: (1)

hi

how far will you travel basedin surrey


Adrian

StickyMicky

top job

type r pete

another good job from the boy's at polished bliss, well done rich and clark

360ste

iTrader: (1)

360ste

iTrader: (1)

Thought I had got it right. I was on a run with this car today. Looks even better in real life, wish I had got some pictures to post after the run.

westtra

bloody hell rich how much threads about the car do you have posted up, Not as clean and shiney after todays run though.

westtra

john the car was bought at s&s serviced there once, ended up at t&c bought by someone else who has in last month purchased a 55 plate sti and i got this one

Rich @ PB

iTrader: (3)

Lol, quite a few - it's going down a storm on some US detailing forums too!

Rich @ PB

iTrader: (3)

Not that far, as the travel costs will be too much. However, if you pm me your exact location I may be able to help you find a decent local detailer - I know several not far from Surrey who do great work.

fatboymal

Could you recommend one in South Wales?

westtra

Am goign to have to do a bit of searching once am offshore

360ste

iTrader: (1)

Westtra ahve you thought about copyrighting or trademarking your car ?

Stuart Page

iTrader: (4)

Fair play too for polishing the orange hue out of the side indicators!

Great work guys!

westtra

Am just going to try get a good discount from rich for all the work its bringing in.

westtra

on the bright side though T&C have the car back and are getting the bonnet fixed for me.

Rich @ PB

iTrader: (3)

That's great news!

Rich @ PB

iTrader: (3)

Hmm, no pro's spring to mind, but it might be worth signing up on Detailing World (Detailing World - A world for detailers by detailers.) and asking in the Welsh section. There's a couple of decent enthusiasts from Wales on there, but not sure if they work on other people's car's or not.