When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I've just bought a whiteline rear arb, is it worth getting uprated links too? I've been told theres no point, but have also read in some cases of the standard ones snapping. I'm contemplating just buying new oem ones when i fit the bar, what are peoples thoughts?
I've just bought a whiteline rear arb, is it worth getting uprated links too? I've been told theres no point, but have also read in some cases of the standard ones snapping. I'm contemplating just buying new oem ones when i fit the bar, what are peoples thoughts?
Only if you have an adjustable bar. Stick to Superpro for a higher quality product
I can't see what they are? I would love them if oil pressure and temp, and if they work with the advance controller . Problem is I'm currently banned from spending anything.
I can't see what they are? I would love them if oil pressure and temp, and if they work with the advance controller . Problem is I'm currently banned from spending anything.
It's a Defi DIN gauge (two temperatures, one pressure), red illumination with red gauges/pointers.
They don't need a controller to work, all plug and play in one unit, it comes with its Defi sensors and everything needed to fit.
It's a Defi DIN gauge (two temperatures, one pressure), red illumination with red gauges/pointers.
They don't need a controller to work, all plug and play in one unit, it comes with its Defi sensors and everything needed to fit.
its a nice item , I viewed it at rally day at coombe .
What are my options for brighter reverse light on a jdm hatch; currently I have a red led bulb in one side as a fog, and a standard reverse bulb on the other. Options seem to be a bulb swap/upgrade, or fogs in the bumper reflectors if this isn't too complicated. It would be great if there was a "how to" if someone has done this.
Apologies if it is somewhere in the previous pages. Ta.
Last edited by hedgecutter; Oct 18, 2019 at 05:10 PM.
Car went in for new headgaskets etc after noticed temps starting to rise slightly when mapping....note the gauge never moved off its half way mark. It was originally forged back in 2013
New gaskets, heads skimmed, valves cleaned, valve seats tidied and valve clearances adjusted. Now sounds like a sewing machine on idle
Initial run out today and temps never went above 105 on full flat out runs so all good so far
Hope it continues, Craig.
Has anyone upgraded their reverse bulb, or put 2 in and moved the dogs down to the bumper?
Sorry, not of much help on the subject of your question HG but what type of bulb have you used for the fog light and where did you source it from?
I can't find a red reverse type one anymore.
That **** looks sexy!
Sorry, not of much help on the subject of your question HG but what type of bulb have you used for the fog light and where did you source it from?
I can't find a red reverse type one.
That **** looks sexy!
Reverse bulbs are clear 12V 21W T20 capless (7440 - single filament)
Sorry, not of much help on the subject of your question HG but what type of bulb have you used for the fog light and where did you source it from?
I can't find a red reverse type one anymore.
That **** looks sexy!
I've posted this in the general forum also but thought i'd try here also so apologies for the repost but its racking my brain.
Since my engine rebuild i've done around 2k. During the 1k break in and driving like a grandad, the car started to hesitate and feel flat on partial throttle. Someone mentioned it could possibly be the maf so i cleaned it, and done what i thought at the time was an ECU reset (left the battery disconnected overnight) this improved the issue for a couple of days but the hesitation and flat spots soon came back. I done the cleaning process and reset again and again a few days later the issues were back. By this time i was convinced it must be the maf. After the engine break in period I ended up buying a secondhand maf and found the proper way of resetting my ECU by using ecuexplorer. After this the car felt as it should, it pulled like a train and i thought problem solved. A week later i was getting flat spots again top end, the car just felt like it was holding back past 3000rpm. Tonight I've reset the ECU again and the car flies, but i know once the ECU has relearnt the maf readings it will go back to being flat again.
Have i just been unlucky and bought a duff secondhand maf or is there something else that could cause this :
sound more like youve a vacuum leak somewhere. each time you reset the ecu it clears all the correction tables - car then flies first off then slowly it tries to correct the airleak until it cant correct anymore (out of scale) and it then starts running like a dog.
Ultimately thats what might have to happen. But if it's something i can sort myself easily enough I'll give it a go first.
Originally Posted by Gambit
sound more like youve a vacuum leak somewhere. each time you reset the ecu it clears all the correction tables - car then flies first off then slowly it tries to correct the airleak until it cant correct anymore (out of scale) and it then starts running like a dog.
I never thought about a vaccum leak, I'm waiting on a reply from the garage i'll mention this and hopefully try and get it booked in next week sometime.
yes thanks
I'm just unsure which droplinks to use.
:
, I'm waiting on a reply from the garage i'll mention this and hopefully try and get it booked in next week sometime.