Indeed, thanks for the heads up Don
Initially I fitted coaxial speakers to the front and rear but I wasn't satisfied with the sound quality so I replaced the fronts with component ones.
You need to purchase the door mirror gussets, part numbers 94251FG060 and 94251FG070 .
After replacing the coaxial fronts with the component versions it finally sounds good (perhaps add an underseat subwoofer in the future if funds allow but there are other priorities in the meantime).
That's what's fitted: Hertz Mille 165mm 2w comp (fronts; the tweeters just about fit to the OEM gussets), Hertz Mille Pro Coax 6.5" SPK (rears), Skinz pro black 2mm sheet (for doors), SAK MDF VAUX collars, Skinz 6mm liner (for tailgate) and a Pioneer double DIN Android auto/iPhone headunit.
You are lucky that your car has rear speakers, mine didn't have but luckily the wiring was there for the tweeters and the rears.

 

Thanks. I'm really setting my sights a little lower than you hifi buffs! , so I'm more with Matt here. I did look up my head unit, which is 4 x 50w, and states I should use 50w speakers, so I'm going to put in some coax fronts, probably Pioneer g series, and maybe the same in the back, and get the head unit wired in properly....I need to spend on performance, and if I get this titanium straight through exhaust sorted, speakers will be irrelevant!!!

 

Afternoon all,
Came in last night and car was steamy - when parked I could hear a HISS from the engine bay. Checked water - low!! Temp had crept to the 3rd mark up the gauge so higher than normal.
Topped up with water when cool, and could hear a tinkle of water as the head tank level fell. With a torch I could see it splashing and swirling on top of the block under the throttle body above the starter motor below the clutch spring. Quite a large "jet" spray / leak.

Took off the intercooler pipework etc. today to gain access ( I have bypassed the throttle water heater pipes and joined them, hoped it was just a loose jubilee or pipe popped off - wasn't ) and when cold / engine off no sign of a leak. Push on the intercooler pipes so I can start the engine, Viola! water leak.
It seems to come from by the silver water pipe ( crossover pipe? ) on top of the block, but there are no hose joins there and I can't see any other leak paths? The take off the crossover pipe from the throttle body water return is fine as are the rubber hose sto the throttle body.

Any thoughts?

I'll try and take a few pics or video to post here in case that helps, but I am confused.

Car is 2009 STI 330S, forged/FMIC/SC46 etc.

Thanks
V

 

You have the downpipe from the header tank to water pump pipe (front half of X pipe item 12) and the temp sensor (item 18 below) in that region


Maybe a jubilee clip on hose item6 allowing flow in that direction

 

Thanks Don, it does seem to be coming from around the position of the temp sensor ( 18 ) or below PCV on manifold.

I was calling the large silver pipe (16) the x-over not the yellow one you highlighted.

What is / where does part 15 - the small hose go, it's about there the leak is squirting from!

I'll go back to the car while it's in pieces and see what I can find.

It does leak badly as soon as I take off the reservoir cap once it got water in and a bit warm!

Thanks

 

Well, it seem like it's part 12 - a metal black pipe that takes water from the throttle body back into circulation - this metal pipe had rusted on the upward bend and leaks when under pressure - temperature or squeezing top hose. but it's the black metal pipe that takes the water away from the throttle body. Maybe the pipe next to the yellow pipe that is not numbered. Anyway the one that ends in the middle of the engine and points upwards!

Is this part available - looking at Don! - from dealers? Looks a pain to fit - manifold off etc??

I'll try and put the rubber hose further down the pipe and clip after the corrosion hole, for now!

Cheers

 

Looks like this black metal pipe goes under the manifold so maybe a bigger job!

Is this black metal pipe ( pir of pipes? ) available as a spare?

Thanks

 

ICP (same for Hatch as newage)

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Coolant-B...-/272949564523

 

Thanks Don, it looks quite a bit like it. Nor sure if the top pipe ( bulkhead side ) is the same? Worth a punt tho.

Can it be fitted without manifold etc. off?

Thanks

 

http://opposedforces.com/parts/info/21141AA131/

2.0L Newage version is P/N :21141AA122


Probably not

 

Manifold off to fit that pipe sadly, My hatch buggered that pipe Many moons ago

 

Don - Your engine photo has the pipe looking like the one on ICP ( which I have ordered! ) although from what bit I can see of mine the upward pipe that takes water from the throttle body seems to be near the near side, before the throttle body?
Does look like needs manifold off... looks like a bit goes under the block ally cross over pipe but maybe be just thebolt.
The two pipes look joined - if I cut them apart and bolt the rear water pipe down that may work?

Rob - what's the service manual time for this sort of job?
When yours went was it internal or external corrosion?? i.e. was the black lacquer chipped and it rusted from the outside or was it internal?? Maybe from combustion gasses in the water ... see below!

Also, I may have cooked the head gaskets with this water leak or my previous holed radiator!
What does small bubbles in the header tank when engine running mean .......

Cheers guys and thanks!

 

Here's another heads up for rusty spots...I've taken my door handles off to be resprayed, and the little slide on/off fitting which holds the handle backing plate is rusted to ****. The backing is loosened from behind with a T30, and then slides out; the rusty bit then pulls out, and I then eased off the plastic sheath, and it's currently sitting in geox c gel before being sprayed with zinc tomorrow

I knew there was something rusty behind there because whenever I used fall out remover it always showed up from the door handles.....it's an easy way to check if you have the same issue.

 

Morning all! So my 08 STI has been fairly stationery since lockdown here in Scotland since working from home, had to take it on small (5-10mile drives) to keep battery alive but it has gone flat and needed jumped several times.

Anyway, decided to take it for some fuel for the first time in 3 months and it was quite hesitant, throwing a P0011 code. Reading around this it can be quite concerning, everything from dirty oil to AVCS solenoid.

I am going to get it in for a service asap, but thoughts on relation to it being fairly stationery rather than something more serious? TIA

 

Subaru's diagnostic procedure for P0011 (Bank 1 being the RHS - UK Drivers side of engine)


you may be lucky in just changing the oil a couple of times

 

Thanks Don, appreciate that info! Fingers crossed an oil change will help - I did top up recently (during the time it has been sat) to bring it up to full, just hope I haven't introduced something it didn't like! Going to pop it into Subaru to get a check over.

 

Don,
I got the part shown below using ICP and the part number you provided. BUT I think it is different to the one on my 2009 Hatch sti - as the pipe bulkhead side is the thinner one ( marked in yellow below - the upwards part has holed ) that takes water from the throttle body, and the mounting bolts are in a different position.

Any chance you have the part number for 2008- STI ?

*** Actually, it looks like it is the pipe at metal pipe to hose connection 13 on n/side marked C on the diagram. *** It's to the n/s of the knock sensor.
I think it is a take off from a wider metal pipe feeding the heater hose??
Is this part available??

Cheers


http://opposedforces.com/parts/info/21141AA131/

 

This is the culprit - the thin black metal pipe joined to the protected rubber hose where it turns vertical 90 degrees.

 

thats a strange place for a pipe to rot out - can you actually see it leaking from there?

 

Hi Gambit,

Yes, there is a rusted pinhole just after the raised retaining lip a cm from the end of the metal pipe. I could see the water swirling under the pipe and felt it when I got my finger to it, and when I took off the hose I could feel the corroded hole. I have bodged it by pushing the rubber hose further down the pipe and double jubilee / spring clipping it.

Dunno why, maybe when it was rebuilt/forged it was chipped there or just erosion / corrosion on a bend?

Bit of a pain as it's manifold off, and it's not the pipe set shown above but the pipe to the heater matrix it seems and this is a take off to the throttle body ( warming circuit ).

Cheers

 

May have cooked head gaskets when it leaked water.... does this pic - bubbles in head tank from cold ( after bleeding any air locks for a few days! ) indicate a head gasket problem?


Head gaskets?


Thanks

 

wonder had it been rubbing on something previously to cause that. even bare metal wouldnt rust into a hole that quick, its not like its a damp area either under the bonnet.

bubbles would be a bad sign - Think you said in previous post that it had overheated on the temp gauge? you might aswell try and give it a hard drive and see does the temp shoot up and your convinced youv'e no more airlocks - is your top rad hose swelling or anything?

even when my headgasket showed early signs of going (temps rising when mapping) it never moved from halfway on the temp gauge!

 

Whichever database I look at, JDM or UK/Europe, the part number is the same for MY08 onwards 21141AA131. It is also the same part number for 2.5L Hawk.


21141AA122 is the current part number for the EJ207


The throttle body coolant supply pipe is attached to the feed from the water pump to the heater at "C" on the diagram and the return connects to the main water Xover pipe at "A".

 

The water pump bypass supply pipe, marked 2 on the waterpump drawing above is 14065AA380

 

Don, Many thanks, that piece DOES look more like the one that failed! The part you ringed in red on the water pump diagram.

The earlier pipe was the right one as you showed just not the one I needed, so your research WAS correct! It was only when I started to strip off stuff in the engine bay to check the pipes I realised it wasn't the one I described. ICP happy to return as unopened, I'll try and get the other one.

Cheers

V

 

 

Does anyone know how much this wheel weighs?
It's an OEM BBS one.

 

https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/sho....php?t=2239019

20.5 lbs

 

I was thinking of swapping my Enkei STi Ts RA wheels (they use MAT technology) with the BBS but the BBS aren't too much lighter (~700 g) despite being forged.
Thanks!

 

So what's the difference between Prodrive/Speedline/SSR's Flowforming Technology and Enkei's Most Advanced Technology ??
An interesting read https://enkei.com/engineering/