No, for the Hybrid if you take the bumper off that way, you take off the beam you attach the FMIC to at the same time!

The way to do it IMO is to take headlights off and unscrew/unclip the fasteners. Dont forget to disconnect the indicators (and wheelarch trim)

 

Thank for the info. I'm sure I will find out soon enough!
As to the 20g on a 2 liter:

I would like to try an 18g on my engine for greater mid range torque, a little less power and a spool about 300 rpm sooner.

BUT

If i can go 2.5/2.33 next Xmas then the 20g will be just right, so i'm hanging on.

TBH, catch my engine revs just right and it is fabulous, just need to drive it right (there's the problem for sure.. )

Graham.

ps:
The great thread I read somewhere for fitting a Hybrid showed the headlamps out, and 3 of them fitted one in a day, the first they had done (UK Turbo).

 

The HKS attached to the bumper bar as well, but by clever use of a drill it was easy to attach and remove the bumper complete with bar!

Note the boss on top of the intercooler, and the bracket securing it back to the slam panel stay in this picture

I've never had to remove my headlights to work on the intercooler, only to change to the Morretts

 

graham, do you now what air intake you going to use?

 

Graham, I have the Hybrid fitting instructions in .pdf if you want them. PM your e-mail, if you do.

Also, just remembered, the front bumper bar, for the No. plate is held with 2 torx security screws which are a PITA if you don't have the correct bits. That bar needs to be cut out flush with the underside of the horizontal rail that carries the I/C.

Tim, Your descriptions sound to be different, from what I remember

 

Gerry, I had an HKS FMIC not a Hybrid. However from what I have seen the Hybrid looks very similar to the HKS design, hence my comments

With the HKS you open out the central bumper skin mounting hole in the bumper bar to 25mm diameter so you can access the bolt that secures the top of the core to the L shaped bracket securing it to the slam panel stay...it means that the bumper can be removed/refitted complete with the bumper bar without having to take the headlights out...like many things on my car I've learnt that it's easier to remove some parts to work on it that to try and fiddle around them, a quick release bumper was very useful


Unfortunately I've not got any detailed pics of it all fitted on my car, and I sold the HKS intercooler when I took the car off the road in 2004 because I've replaced it with the Lateral kit

 

He probably doesn't know which one he bought, trivia doesn't seem to matter to Graham

He has a PowerTec cone filter set up from us.

David APi Engines / APi Impreza
www.apiengines.com

 

Personally when installing an HKS i found it easier to remove the headlights. As you know Tim, it takes a max of 5 mins to remove both headlights.

Having removed a Hyrbid from a couple of cars and refitted them, again i found it easier to remove the headlights.

IMO doing it that way, allows to slide the bumper on and off the bumper bar, with ease, until you are happy with your cuts in the bumper for the FM.

I use one of these to cut the plastic of the bumper.

http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/...13394&id=36273

Steven

 

Graham, the 18G and 20G spool almost identically, certainly nowhere near 300rpm in it. The compressor wheels are the same outside diameter which is one of the determining factors.
The difference 'may' be the midrange torque, I say 'may' because unless you have surge issues holding back the 20G then the 18G offers no real advantage.

Andy

 

Here's the fitting thread from a couple of years ago

http://bbs.scoobynet.co.uk/showthread.php?t=295624

HTH

 

API David: I just trust those I have respect for!

Steven: Thans. Taking the light out is no big deal and if it makes life easy then I'm all for that. Will buy a Pad Saw tonight (that's what i call them in Birmingham anyway )

Gerry: Thanks very much!

Andy: Pleased to hear that. The EVO last year changed his turbo to something smaller (he never gives detail) to give mid range punch instead of top end power. Having been in that car on the road it definitly has mid range punch. The torque must be huge which is why it has a twin plate clutch I guess. The '300 rpm' is from some converstion I've read on here about the 18g, but as David says, I don't do trivia!
The 20 g is a cracker imho..no...in my experience!

Andy: Should I reverse the manifold in your opinion?

Graham.

 

Thats what we call em too , thought the picture would help explain any misuderstanding.

I know you asked Andys opinion on the reversed inlet, but IMO i would not bother for the time being. Its more hassle than its worth IMO.

 

Thats not a very nice thing to say about my opinion

Agree with Steven, the gains are very minimal.

Andy

 

 

a Disc cutter is quicker than a pad saw, especially a narrow blade fitted in a diegrinder.
After doing my own car with a hacksaw blade and finishing it with a surform file, using the works diegrinder is a much improved way of doing it, that's how I did the race car, a few evos, the odd impreza and a GTiR.


Andy

 

great if you have a die grinder Andy

I have, but still prefer to use the saw, as it is more controlled and you dont rush as much. Good work out too

 

Got a nice new pad saw now and I need the work-out too.
Right, canning the reverse manifold.

Headlamps out after this email and a few other bits off too I hope

Graham.

 

P20SPD,ANDY & 911..

IMO..
If you go to the trouble of fitting a FMIC, Rotating the inlet manifold is like putting the icing on the cake, by doing this you remove a lot of hardware from the back of the engine thus allowing the forced air from the scoop to pick the low pressure air held in the engine bay(which is very hot)creating a vortex with the only escape route being that space either side of the geabox(reason for the modern day sump guard being T/Y shape)thus allowing the high speed air under the car(the lower you get the car the greater the pressure/flow)this is where the chassis tunning becomes paramount ref stabilityAST/POWERSTATION))picks up the hot air from the engine bay and extracts to atmosphere, thus allowing the engine to be more efficient,(HEAT SOAK) which when it comes to hillclimbing is of the utmost importance TO DISSAPATE..

Holly **** did i say all that, So yes it is a advantage to rota the inlet manifold, the proof in the pudding would be to run a data logging system..

Graham.. pm me if you would like to talk morre on this subject..

John

 

For the hassle, its not worth it IMO.

 

Finally got the bumper off after some messing with the lights, but defeated by the security screws for the number plate. Why did they do that?
The bolts will be off come what may tomorrow night so i can make some progress.
Air filter and the remains of the resonator are off too, might have quite a bit of the slog done by the weekend.

John:

That sure sounded good, do you work in the 'field' or what?
Must admit, looking at all the effort to reverse the inlet there will be some time involved which i may not have (bathroom)

Graham.

 

i found the dremel attachment you get free with it does the job in 30mins

 

I used a Stanley knife, have the scar and blood stains on the garage floor to proove it

 

Keep it up Tim, we'll half their population soon enough.

Guy's the easy way is a dremmel type thing. Honestly, the thing about using a hack blade is it's difficult to guide, and once it's off on a course it's hard to correct.

---john---

 

Not with a pad saw John

Using a stanley blade sounds suicidal!

 

Graham..

Yes, Aircraft engineer, IMO after fitting a FMIC i would remove the scoop and modify the hole EVO style, thus having a exit point above and below the car creating a greater air flow in the engine bay, all this would only work if you have free flowing air at the front after fitment of the FMIC..

Remember how we used to lift the rear of the bonnet..

John

 

Doing the last one John, about 20mm spacers will do it. Will i get more 'front-end' downforce with it to?
Graham.

 

How much more wieght will be added to the car after the AST/FMIC mods have been carried out..

Ref:- downforce will only come in to play once you have passed the EVO, (at which time you will be airborne)and you will need all the downforce/BRAKES you can get..

John

 

Brakes?
Nah, hill climbers use gravity and a mighty 'shuv' on the middle pedal when terror strikes..........
Graham

 

Finally got the plastic bumper off. Who used those stupid security Torx bolts on the number plate holder of all things?
Anyway, the grinder soon sorted them..

Offered the FMIC up:


And needed to cut the beam in a few places:


Why doesn't Hybrid use the existing holes in the beam for the top mountings? There are 2 perfectly placed holes waiting!

The two bottom brackets needed joggling to fit, but when bolted up the matrix is very secure.

End 'samco's' next and some more trimming:


I've loosed the pipework into all the slots, obviously a bit of messing to come, but not too bad I think.

Getting close to it turning out like this:



If only....

Graham

 

Andy