Wilky_Boy

Hi all,

I am planning to refurb the 4 pots on my 2004 WRX. Earlier today I attempted to undo the bolts which hold the caliper on. The bottom bolt came off ( eventually ) after much pulling but in the process stripped the thread from the bolt. The top one just won't budge. So my questions are:

How the hell do I get the top bolt out ? Any suggestions ? People have mentioned using heat bu it is this safe and what would I need ?

Where can I get replacement bolts as I don't want to put the rusty ones back in ? Are the only available from a dealer.

Any help would be really appreciated as I'd like to get the car back on the road as soon as I can.

Cheers,

Wilky.

tanyatriangles

iTrader: (2)

Did you soak them in WD40 before removal? I always do, it's surprising how much it helps.

Bolts WILL be available from elsewhere than a dealer, try Yell.com the UK's local search engine - search for United Kingdom businesses, under bolt and nut stockists, take a bolt to them, they will match it.

C8 DHC 04WRX

iTrader: (13)

just done mine on 04wrx (and they came off really easily!) - lots of wd40 is the key (leave to soak overnight if needed)

then get a blow lamp on them if they wont budge (just don't get it near any of the rubber seals or it will damage them)

on re-assembly make sure you get new bolts (as said above, find a nut+bolt stockist as will be way cheaper than dealers) and coat threads in copper grease so that they will come out next time!

Wilky_Boy

Thanks to both of you for the sound advice. Just been soaking the bolts in WD and will continue to do so all week. Will try again on Saturday.

Really appreciate your help,

Wilky.

tanyatriangles

iTrader: (2)

Something I was told about in France might help too: see if you can get hold of a SIX-sided socket in the correct size, rather than the usual twelve sided. It will grip better and is less likely to slip and round the bolt head.

I bought one to remove the bolt that holds the cutting blade onto my mower.

Also, if you can get one, a longer bar to put INTO the socket will help: mine is a wheelbrace available from screwfix at around £6, extends to nearly 24":

Telescopic Wheel Wrench - Screwfix.com, Where the Trade Buys, worthwhile buy at that price, makes wheel nuts a doddle too and a VERY good anti-hijack tool, PC Plod can't complain about it being in the car

D1CCY

I've found using a socket tends to tip over on the bolt head as you are working backwards at arms length in a confined space. I prefer to use a flat ring spanner and belt it with a 4lb club hammer which creates a direct impact. Crude but very effective.

If you've stripped the thread from a bolt you might need to have a careful look at the thread in the caliper.

172sport

iTrader: (6)

Use heat or the will no doubt snap, i managed to snap 2 of the 4 on my mates P1. Grrr

I then had to take the caliper to the workshop, use heat and then remove the snapped parts.

I doubt WD40 will do much TBH, Proper Penol didnt even touch the P1's

Wilky_Boy

Thanks boys. Okay I've managed to get one side off but it really felt like the top bolt was going to snap. WD40 must have helped because at the weekend it wouldn't budge ! As D1CCY said though the thread on the calliper is now goosed ! Having to have it tapped !!!

Cheers,

Wilky.

carl heath

did exactly the same mate on rear brembos on sti a couple of weeks ago and was the last bolt on the last caliper !!!! typical

Paucatuman

Hiya,

Have you heard of Loctite Freeze and Release, it's properly good gear for this sort of job

It is similar stuff to WD40 but with a couple of extra tricks up its sleeve.

It's not just a penetrating liquid like WD40, it's a freeze spray and a lubricant as well.

It comes in an aerosol and as you spray it onto the components it shock freezes them and causes the rust to crack. This happens due to Differential Thermal Contraction don't you know The oil can then get into the cracks and right into the joint making it much more effective, rather than waiting for it to slowly soak through the rust if your lucky.

Because it's a lub it stays effective after a penetrating liquid would have evapourated away - it is also excellent for lubricating exhaust rubbers

It's not a magic wand but it has always worked for me and it's something else to try before you have to break the gas axe out

Might be worth a try,

Cheers

Paul