TAROX 10 pot- spongy feeling...help!
#1
TAROX 10 pot- spongy feeling...help!
Hi all,
I installed the Tarox 10 pot, 328mm kit on my Impreza classic. However the stopping power is not what I expected. The car needs more distance to stop than before and the brake pedal is very spongy (I'm not sure about the spelling of this word) and the pedal travel increased a lot.
Any suggestions please?
I installed the Tarox 10 pot, 328mm kit on my Impreza classic. However the stopping power is not what I expected. The car needs more distance to stop than before and the brake pedal is very spongy (I'm not sure about the spelling of this word) and the pedal travel increased a lot.
Any suggestions please?
#2
Scooby Regular
sounds like air in the system / may be that the pads haven't bedded in yet and are still slightly 'green'??
are the caliper bleed nipples at the top??
alyn
are the caliper bleed nipples at the top??
alyn
#3
No air in the system, we bleeded over and over again, and there is no air for sure.
Yes the bleed nipples are on the top of the caliper.
It's been a month or so, so the pads should be bed in.
Yes the bleed nipples are on the top of the caliper.
It's been a month or so, so the pads should be bed in.
#4
I had the Tarox 12 pots fittted and the pedal travel increased quite a bit, I asssumed it was because I was having to move a lot more hydraulic fluid about.
Someone mentioned that a larger master cylinder might help as the bugeye's is quite small. Not sure how correct that is though ??
Shaun
Someone mentioned that a larger master cylinder might help as the bugeye's is quite small. Not sure how correct that is though ??
Shaun
#6
I came from a Godspeed conversion running Pagid Blue pads..this set up had almost instant "throw your head into the screen" bite on pressing the pedal with very little travel
My Tar ox set up is completely different in that the brakes are very progressive and need a harder shove on the pedal...designed for track use LOL
Shaun
My Tar ox set up is completely different in that the brakes are very progressive and need a harder shove on the pedal...designed for track use LOL
Shaun
#7
More pistons does not mean better performing brakes!!!!!!!!!
I think you should up the master cylinder size to the next available one, to compensate for the pressure needed for all those little pistons.
I would check your pads for Taper wear after a few thousand miles of running as well.
Shaun....sounds like the Godspeed version did its job effectively....why did you change?
I think you should up the master cylinder size to the next available one, to compensate for the pressure needed for all those little pistons.
I would check your pads for Taper wear after a few thousand miles of running as well.
Shaun....sounds like the Godspeed version did its job effectively....why did you change?
Last edited by GC8Lee; 13 July 2007 at 03:11 PM.
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#9
> I think you should up the master cylinder size to the next available one, to
> compensate for the pressure needed for all those little pistons.
There's so much wrong with that statement I won't even start.
What's important for pedal travel and pedal feel is not the number of pistons but the total area. Measure the diameter of all your dinky little 10 pot pistons and work out the total area (add up all the pi x dia^2 x 0.25). Then do the same for the standard 4 pots. If they're the same then you won't need to change the master cylinder to keep the same pedal travel and pedal feel.
If you do that for the AP 6 pots then they're virtually the same as the 4 pots. You pay more for AP's for a reason.
With 10 pots I'm guessing the total area will be bigger than on the 4 pots. Why, because they can't make the pistons small enough for 10 to give you the same area. More area, same master cylinder so more travel on the pedal. A triumph of bling over design.
But unless you know lots about brakes I wouldn't go just changing the master cylinder without understanding what it's going to do to the rear brakes, to the brake balance, to the ABS, I could go on.
> compensate for the pressure needed for all those little pistons.
There's so much wrong with that statement I won't even start.
What's important for pedal travel and pedal feel is not the number of pistons but the total area. Measure the diameter of all your dinky little 10 pot pistons and work out the total area (add up all the pi x dia^2 x 0.25). Then do the same for the standard 4 pots. If they're the same then you won't need to change the master cylinder to keep the same pedal travel and pedal feel.
If you do that for the AP 6 pots then they're virtually the same as the 4 pots. You pay more for AP's for a reason.
With 10 pots I'm guessing the total area will be bigger than on the 4 pots. Why, because they can't make the pistons small enough for 10 to give you the same area. More area, same master cylinder so more travel on the pedal. A triumph of bling over design.
But unless you know lots about brakes I wouldn't go just changing the master cylinder without understanding what it's going to do to the rear brakes, to the brake balance, to the ABS, I could go on.
#11
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i had tarox 6 pots on a gtir, didnt rate them one bit. I know of a well respected subaru tuner/garage that has some sat on their shelves as he wont sell them as he also doesnt rate them
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i had the tarox 10 pot kit fitted about 3 months ago, and it was spongy to start with, they bled the brakes 4 times, and they were better, but it urned out that the only reason that they were crap to start with, is the pad has to get very hot to work properly, and i am notoriously light on brakes, and wasnt getting them hot enough to do any good.
#13
Tarox say that each kit is designed to the specific master cylinder of each car the kit is going for.
There many kind of pad, you may had the harder compound pad.
I just change to the softest pad available, and the feeling is little better, just a little. I will wait to bed this set of pad is and I will see.
There many kind of pad, you may had the harder compound pad.
I just change to the softest pad available, and the feeling is little better, just a little. I will wait to bed this set of pad is and I will see.
#14
> I think you should up the master cylinder size to the next available one, to
> compensate for the pressure needed for all those little pistons.
There's so much wrong with that statement I won't even start.
What's important for pedal travel and pedal feel is not the number of pistons but the total area. Measure the diameter of all your dinky little 10 pot pistons and work out the total area (add up all the pi x dia^2 x 0.25). Then do the same for the standard 4 pots. If they're the same then you won't need to change the master cylinder to keep the same pedal travel and pedal feel.
.
> compensate for the pressure needed for all those little pistons.
There's so much wrong with that statement I won't even start.
What's important for pedal travel and pedal feel is not the number of pistons but the total area. Measure the diameter of all your dinky little 10 pot pistons and work out the total area (add up all the pi x dia^2 x 0.25). Then do the same for the standard 4 pots. If they're the same then you won't need to change the master cylinder to keep the same pedal travel and pedal feel.
.
Thats more or less what i ment from my opening statement hence saying more pistons do not neccessarly mean better brakes!!!!
Thats why i think all the pistons added together could mean there is a significant differance between what was onboard to what he has now.
You have kinda argued and agreed the same point....but i should have been more precise in what i was trying to say.
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