Callipers + heat dissapation
#1
From what I've read the OEM callipers are a major source of heat during track days. Is there any methods to get the heat out of these callipers, or can you just upgrade callipers on their own?
Just wondering!
Greg
Just wondering!
Greg
#2
Greg,
I saw in the Demon Tweeks Motorsport catalog some insulating material which fits between the pad and caliper - maybe this is a cost-effective way round it ? Costs £33-55 per pair depending on the size of the pad.
They are called "Thermal Heatshield Kits" on page 203.
DT are on 01978 664466.
I haven't tried these personally (has anyone else?) but they seem to be the answer to your problem. They quote "reduced heat transfer of 100-150 degrees F".
Thanks
Gavin
[This message has been edited by GavinP (edited 17 September 2000).]
I saw in the Demon Tweeks Motorsport catalog some insulating material which fits between the pad and caliper - maybe this is a cost-effective way round it ? Costs £33-55 per pair depending on the size of the pad.
They are called "Thermal Heatshield Kits" on page 203.
DT are on 01978 664466.
I haven't tried these personally (has anyone else?) but they seem to be the answer to your problem. They quote "reduced heat transfer of 100-150 degrees F".
Thanks
Gavin
[This message has been edited by GavinP (edited 17 September 2000).]
#3
Hi Gregh
Some general info/rambling
The calipers are not the heat source,thats the pads/discs but the pads do heat them up.
The standard iron 4 pot calipers loose heat at a slower rate compared to ally calipers so the fluid will boil earlier.
Most fluids boils at about 250'C or less so the calipers need to stay fairly cool compared to the pads/discs which will be much hotter.
If on track the pedal stays firm but you have to press the pedal a lot harder the pads are overheating but the caliper is not.The answer would be to get pads with a higher temp rating.In this case the loss of heat to the caliper from the pads is benefical as the pads will run a bit cooler.
If however the pedal starts to go spongy or sinks to the floor then the caliper is so hot the fluid is boiling.In this case the insulators would be a good idea as they would allow the caliper to run cooler.
Standard brakes are designed to get pad fade before the fluid boils so the driver feels the increase in pedal effort and hopefully slows down before the pedal sinks to the floor.
As the effectiveness of the brakes depends on the rate at which they can loose heat and the majority of heat is lost from the disc to the air, changing just the caliper would only give a small improvement.Also if you go as far as changing the caliper you may as well change the disc size as well.
If you ducted cool air to the centre of the disc so that more air flows through the disc then the disc, pads and caliper would all run cooler as a result.If you only ducted air to the caliper the discs would still be just as hot! but this may cure a fluid boiling problem.
Andy
Some general info/rambling
The calipers are not the heat source,thats the pads/discs but the pads do heat them up.
The standard iron 4 pot calipers loose heat at a slower rate compared to ally calipers so the fluid will boil earlier.
Most fluids boils at about 250'C or less so the calipers need to stay fairly cool compared to the pads/discs which will be much hotter.
If on track the pedal stays firm but you have to press the pedal a lot harder the pads are overheating but the caliper is not.The answer would be to get pads with a higher temp rating.In this case the loss of heat to the caliper from the pads is benefical as the pads will run a bit cooler.
If however the pedal starts to go spongy or sinks to the floor then the caliper is so hot the fluid is boiling.In this case the insulators would be a good idea as they would allow the caliper to run cooler.
Standard brakes are designed to get pad fade before the fluid boils so the driver feels the increase in pedal effort and hopefully slows down before the pedal sinks to the floor.
As the effectiveness of the brakes depends on the rate at which they can loose heat and the majority of heat is lost from the disc to the air, changing just the caliper would only give a small improvement.Also if you go as far as changing the caliper you may as well change the disc size as well.
If you ducted cool air to the centre of the disc so that more air flows through the disc then the disc, pads and caliper would all run cooler as a result.If you only ducted air to the caliper the discs would still be just as hot! but this may cure a fluid boiling problem.
Andy
#4
Andy
has anyone even attempted water cooling for brakes ?
won't that be more effective than the air ducting. if we can get an atomising jet of water in front of the callipers. ( may be an ERL pump?). temp. sensors for ambient air behind/in front of callipers as a some sort of a trigger??
again i could be a victim of high stress job and high levels of caffeine making me talk rubbish
[This message has been edited by Sam Elassar (edited 18 September 2000).]
has anyone even attempted water cooling for brakes ?
won't that be more effective than the air ducting. if we can get an atomising jet of water in front of the callipers. ( may be an ERL pump?). temp. sensors for ambient air behind/in front of callipers as a some sort of a trigger??
again i could be a victim of high stress job and high levels of caffeine making me talk rubbish
[This message has been edited by Sam Elassar (edited 18 September 2000).]
#6
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Sam, you and I are both victims!
Water-cooling is the ultimate way to go (for racing) and AP make them but they're very expensive and illegal for road use (no dust seals etc).
I'm having APs fitted, working on the assumption that what's good enough for Stef is good enough for me!
Hoppy
Water-cooling is the ultimate way to go (for racing) and AP make them but they're very expensive and illegal for road use (no dust seals etc).
I'm having APs fitted, working on the assumption that what's good enough for Stef is good enough for me!
Hoppy
#7
Sorry Sam that was cruel.
AP do indeed already do watercooled calipers for competition use, they are internally cooled by capilliary water tracks running down the inside of the calipers.
They keep callipers at a max of 60 degrees (requires fitment of an additional radiator)(IIRC).
Spraying water would do more damage than anything and undoubtedly reduce the friction levels at the pads as it would leak onto them.
Mike.
[This message has been edited by Mike Tuckwood (edited 19 September 2000).]
AP do indeed already do watercooled calipers for competition use, they are internally cooled by capilliary water tracks running down the inside of the calipers.
They keep callipers at a max of 60 degrees (requires fitment of an additional radiator)(IIRC).
Spraying water would do more damage than anything and undoubtedly reduce the friction levels at the pads as it would leak onto them.
Mike.
[This message has been edited by Mike Tuckwood (edited 19 September 2000).]
Trending Topics
#8
The Air ducting on a scooby is not hat bad but could be improved.
You could remove those funny orange bits in the bumper, also I think GGR relocated the indicators to the side ligts (very neat) and put even more ducting on (on a demo car)
Watercooled is the best, Mr Burns uses it.
You could remove those funny orange bits in the bumper, also I think GGR relocated the indicators to the side ligts (very neat) and put even more ducting on (on a demo car)
Watercooled is the best, Mr Burns uses it.
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