DIY Disk Change ???
#2
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MD,
Did this myself last month. Nothing special needed if your only doing the disks. You will need a 14mm socket for the two caliper bolts, possibly a rubber mallet to dislodge the old disk from the hub and something like a wire brush/scotchbrite to clean the face of the hub before you put the new one on. There is nothing other than the wheel/caliper holding on the disk.
Edited to say oh and maybe some copper grease or equiv to go where the disk sits on the hub to stop it seizing on
Duncan..
[Edited by Abzdon - 10/20/2002 6:19:17 PM]
Did this myself last month. Nothing special needed if your only doing the disks. You will need a 14mm socket for the two caliper bolts, possibly a rubber mallet to dislodge the old disk from the hub and something like a wire brush/scotchbrite to clean the face of the hub before you put the new one on. There is nothing other than the wheel/caliper holding on the disk.
Edited to say oh and maybe some copper grease or equiv to go where the disk sits on the hub to stop it seizing on
Duncan..
[Edited by Abzdon - 10/20/2002 6:19:17 PM]
#3
Thankyou very much
So am I correct in saying the disks 'just' sit on the carrier...not bolted on in any way?
Never done disks....done other things like zorsts and front mounts
edited to say, just read the post properly (Doh)
[Edited by Moles Dad - 10/20/2002 6:58:45 PM]
So am I correct in saying the disks 'just' sit on the carrier...not bolted on in any way?
Never done disks....done other things like zorsts and front mounts
edited to say, just read the post properly (Doh)
[Edited by Moles Dad - 10/20/2002 6:58:45 PM]
#4
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The bolts were 17mm on mine, and I followed the same process. I did the whole 2 pot to 4 pot upgrage in two hours. On the whole, an easy job. Just put the car on axle stands, not a jack!!
A 16" (approx) breaker bar is long enough to get the bolts cracked, but short enough to wield inside the wheelarch.
A 16" (approx) breaker bar is long enough to get the bolts cracked, but short enough to wield inside the wheelarch.
#7
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Just to reiterate - and a question.
Those discs can rusts themselves on very, very securely but once the caliper is off, there's nothing else holding them on. If you have to get violent, secure the car on axle stands as it will move about.
In extreme cases, get a long piece of wood and locate it against the disc from the opprosite side of the car. Smash it hard! Clean the hubs thoroughly or the discs will not run true and you'll think you've warped them. Check the torque on the nuts frequently for the first week or so - 70ft/lbs max.
Question: do you have offspring called Mole (in which case it should be "Mole's Dad") or do you just sire Moles (plural)
Cheers,
Richard.
[Edited by Hoppy - 10/21/2002 11:26:48 AM]
Those discs can rusts themselves on very, very securely but once the caliper is off, there's nothing else holding them on. If you have to get violent, secure the car on axle stands as it will move about.
In extreme cases, get a long piece of wood and locate it against the disc from the opprosite side of the car. Smash it hard! Clean the hubs thoroughly or the discs will not run true and you'll think you've warped them. Check the torque on the nuts frequently for the first week or so - 70ft/lbs max.
Question: do you have offspring called Mole (in which case it should be "Mole's Dad") or do you just sire Moles (plural)
Cheers,
Richard.
[Edited by Hoppy - 10/21/2002 11:26:48 AM]
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#8
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Another way to get the stuck discs off is to screw two bolts into the unused holes on the bell face.
This will push the disc off without having to resort to anything too physical.
Can't remember which size bolts to use unfortunately.
Dunno if that is the real use for the holes but they are well placed to do this job.
Nick
[Edited by Butty - 10/21/2002 10:10:57 AM]
This will push the disc off without having to resort to anything too physical.
Can't remember which size bolts to use unfortunately.
Dunno if that is the real use for the holes but they are well placed to do this job.
Nick
[Edited by Butty - 10/21/2002 10:10:57 AM]
#9
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Andy,
Its easy mate, if you wanna come over on the weekend to mine I'll help you do them?
Its easy mate, if you wanna come over on the weekend to mine I'll help you do them?
#10
if you are a member of the SIDC - there was a nice article in the last issue of true grip telling you how to do it (with pictures).
I used a 17mm socket (needed an extender for the top bolt) and also had to use an extra long lever. All you need to do is:
+ jack up the car
+ pop it on axle stands on the chasis mounting points
+ remove the pads
+ this is easy to do, just pull out the little wire and then the spring clip.
+ sometimes you have to use a long screwdriver to prise back the pistons
+ the pads and spacers slide out the back of the calipre
+ now realise that you should have laid everything out on the ground carefully because the inside pads and the outside brake pads are different
+ remove the 17mm bolts holding the calipre on - mine were B&%tard tight
+ the disk should be floating, it just comes off
+ have a quick peek at it to see how bad it was. use vernier measuring calipers to see how close to 22mm you got.
+ put new rotor on
+ try not to get copper grease all over it
+ put new copper grease on the pad backing and spacers (not on the pad itself)
+ bolt back on the calipre
+ slide the pads and spacers in
+ don't use a screwdriver against the rotor surface to prise back the pistons. Use a longer scredriver!
+ check everything and make sure the spring clip is in OK.
and you'll need to pump the brake pedal to get all the levels back.
have I forgotten anything?
rd
I used a 17mm socket (needed an extender for the top bolt) and also had to use an extra long lever. All you need to do is:
+ jack up the car
+ pop it on axle stands on the chasis mounting points
+ remove the pads
+ this is easy to do, just pull out the little wire and then the spring clip.
+ sometimes you have to use a long screwdriver to prise back the pistons
+ the pads and spacers slide out the back of the calipre
+ now realise that you should have laid everything out on the ground carefully because the inside pads and the outside brake pads are different
+ remove the 17mm bolts holding the calipre on - mine were B&%tard tight
+ the disk should be floating, it just comes off
+ have a quick peek at it to see how bad it was. use vernier measuring calipers to see how close to 22mm you got.
+ put new rotor on
+ try not to get copper grease all over it
+ put new copper grease on the pad backing and spacers (not on the pad itself)
+ bolt back on the calipre
+ slide the pads and spacers in
+ don't use a screwdriver against the rotor surface to prise back the pistons. Use a longer scredriver!
+ check everything and make sure the spring clip is in OK.
and you'll need to pump the brake pedal to get all the levels back.
have I forgotten anything?
rd
#11
LOL Hoppy...you are right of course, It should be Mole's Dad
(Im lazy with the typing)
Toby, thanks for the offer...I aint gottem yet mate
rd, cheers for that, I have actually lent my copy to a colleague at work
Cheers all
(Im lazy with the typing)
Toby, thanks for the offer...I aint gottem yet mate
rd, cheers for that, I have actually lent my copy to a colleague at work
Cheers all
#15
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Tony the only True grip you have is on yourself thats why you cant see at night
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