Hawkeye WRX rear suspension knock questions...please
#1
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Hawkeye WRX rear suspension knock questions...please
Hello - I've just spent the last hour searching and googling this issue but haven't managed to find the answers to the questions I have and am hoping those in the know on here can help....please.
I'm pretty certain that I've got the dreaded knock issue on my 2005 WRX Hawkeye (42k miles). Slow speed "clonking" from the boot area - more obvious with a tank full of petrol and on uneven roads. Will do the wobble/wiggle test at some point this week.
I can get hold of the Sachs dampers for around £140 each over here in Froggy land which seem to be just as good as the KYB replacements.
Couple of questions for those in the know:
1. Does replacing the dampers solve this problem or will it come back?
2. Do I need to redo the geometry once I've changed the dampers?
3. Is it a simple swap out/in job or is there much more involved?
Many thanks in advance
I'm pretty certain that I've got the dreaded knock issue on my 2005 WRX Hawkeye (42k miles). Slow speed "clonking" from the boot area - more obvious with a tank full of petrol and on uneven roads. Will do the wobble/wiggle test at some point this week.
I can get hold of the Sachs dampers for around £140 each over here in Froggy land which seem to be just as good as the KYB replacements.
Couple of questions for those in the know:
1. Does replacing the dampers solve this problem or will it come back?
2. Do I need to redo the geometry once I've changed the dampers?
3. Is it a simple swap out/in job or is there much more involved?
Many thanks in advance
#3
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That sounds like an idea - anyone know where the subject with the link is?
Edit: Found these:
http://www.scoobypedia.co.uk/index.p...wageRearStruts
Can't find the thread with a "grease nipple" though ???
Edit: Found these:
http://www.scoobypedia.co.uk/index.p...wageRearStruts
Can't find the thread with a "grease nipple" though ???
Last edited by LVC; 07 January 2013 at 08:19 PM.
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Found the thread with the grease nipple >>>
https://www.scoobynet.com/suspension...hock-area.html
I'm going to spray some white lithium grease to confirm that it's the damper's "clonking" and then see about repacking the grease etc. (with a nipple) if/when the sound comes back.
Does anyone know if I have to get the geometry redone if removing and then putting back the original shocks?
https://www.scoobynet.com/suspension...hock-area.html
I'm going to spray some white lithium grease to confirm that it's the damper's "clonking" and then see about repacking the grease etc. (with a nipple) if/when the sound comes back.
Does anyone know if I have to get the geometry redone if removing and then putting back the original shocks?
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I sprayed "White lithium grease" on the two back struts back when I started this post and not heard any knocking since. I plan to take the suspension struts apart and add the grease nipples but happy to wait until Spring and the warmer weather has arrived.
If you've got the same problem ByByR1 I 100% recommend a spray of the grease as it's easy to do and will confirm if you have the knocking dampers problem before you take it all apart. Also at 12€ for two rattle cans of grease and I've only used 1/2 of one can it's not really an expensive temporary solution.
If you've got the same problem ByByR1 I 100% recommend a spray of the grease as it's easy to do and will confirm if you have the knocking dampers problem before you take it all apart. Also at 12€ for two rattle cans of grease and I've only used 1/2 of one can it's not really an expensive temporary solution.
#7
I sprayed "White lithium grease" on the two back struts back when I started this post and not heard any knocking since. I plan to take the suspension struts apart and add the grease nipples but happy to wait until Spring and the warmer weather has arrived.
If you've got the same problem ByByR1 I 100% recommend a spray of the grease as it's easy to do and will confirm if you have the knocking dampers problem before you take it all apart. Also at 12€ for two rattle cans of grease and I've only used 1/2 of one can it's not really an expensive temporary solution.
If you've got the same problem ByByR1 I 100% recommend a spray of the grease as it's easy to do and will confirm if you have the knocking dampers problem before you take it all apart. Also at 12€ for two rattle cans of grease and I've only used 1/2 of one can it's not really an expensive temporary solution.
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#8
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where to spray...
sorry for hijacking the thread but can you point me in the right direction of exactly where to spray the lithium grease?
is it a case of lifting the boot and spraying the shiny bit or is there a better place to do it?
mine started knocking at the weekend so need to sort it out before too long.
cheers guys
is it a case of lifting the boot and spraying the shiny bit or is there a better place to do it?
mine started knocking at the weekend so need to sort it out before too long.
cheers guys
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Yes exactly that.
Jack up the rear of the car (under the rear of the sill at teh jack point with the standard jack) - leave the wheel in place. Lift up the rubber boot (fingers/hand in-between the coils of the spring) and spray front, rear, sides etc. of the shiny tube part of the shock you see. The goal is for the grease to run down into the top of the tube (it will anyway once the car is back on it's wheels as it compresses the shocks).
Lower the car, move the jack away and then bounce on the sill with the rear door open - nothing extreme, just enough for the shock to compress and release and the grease to lubricate where it's supposed to.
It's not necessarily a long term fix but at least will help to identify that the shock's original grease is stuffed and also will stop the knocking for a period of time.
I still plan to take apart, add grease and grease nipples later on but am waiting for the warmer weather for that.
Jack up the rear of the car (under the rear of the sill at teh jack point with the standard jack) - leave the wheel in place. Lift up the rubber boot (fingers/hand in-between the coils of the spring) and spray front, rear, sides etc. of the shiny tube part of the shock you see. The goal is for the grease to run down into the top of the tube (it will anyway once the car is back on it's wheels as it compresses the shocks).
Lower the car, move the jack away and then bounce on the sill with the rear door open - nothing extreme, just enough for the shock to compress and release and the grease to lubricate where it's supposed to.
It's not necessarily a long term fix but at least will help to identify that the shock's original grease is stuffed and also will stop the knocking for a period of time.
I still plan to take apart, add grease and grease nipples later on but am waiting for the warmer weather for that.
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Nice one :)
Cheers LVC - yeah, not what I needed 3 days after buying the car but hey ho - will give the lithium a go tonight and hopefully that will make the noise quieter (and the wife...) for a wee while....
I also reckon the complete strip down and grease nipple is the way forward - so will add that to the to-do list as well.
Thanks again
I also reckon the complete strip down and grease nipple is the way forward - so will add that to the to-do list as well.
Thanks again
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No worries.
It is a real pain that they have this problem. Mine only has 42k miles on it so I know the shocks are not dead just lack of grease - stupid design
It is a real pain that they have this problem. Mine only has 42k miles on it so I know the shocks are not dead just lack of grease - stupid design
#16
Yes exactly that.
Jack up the rear of the car (under the rear of the sill at teh jack point with the standard jack) - leave the wheel in place. Lift up the rubber boot (fingers/hand in-between the coils of the spring) and spray front, rear, sides etc. of the shiny tube part of the shock you see. The goal is for the grease to run down into the top of the tube (it will anyway once the car is back on it's wheels as it compresses the shocks).
Lower the car, move the jack away and then bounce on the sill with the rear door open - nothing extreme, just enough for the shock to compress and release and the grease to lubricate where it's supposed to.
It's not necessarily a long term fix but at least will help to identify that the shock's original grease is stuffed and also will stop the knocking for a period of time.
I still plan to take apart, add grease and grease nipples later on but am waiting for the warmer weather for that.
Jack up the rear of the car (under the rear of the sill at teh jack point with the standard jack) - leave the wheel in place. Lift up the rubber boot (fingers/hand in-between the coils of the spring) and spray front, rear, sides etc. of the shiny tube part of the shock you see. The goal is for the grease to run down into the top of the tube (it will anyway once the car is back on it's wheels as it compresses the shocks).
Lower the car, move the jack away and then bounce on the sill with the rear door open - nothing extreme, just enough for the shock to compress and release and the grease to lubricate where it's supposed to.
It's not necessarily a long term fix but at least will help to identify that the shock's original grease is stuffed and also will stop the knocking for a period of time.
I still plan to take apart, add grease and grease nipples later on but am waiting for the warmer weather for that.
Thanks for that, I wasn't overly sure myself where to spray. Will hopefully get it done asap.
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10 minute job :)
I did it last night ByByR1 and it was one of these quick fixes that works - happiness levels back up to 100%
I only managed to get round most of the strut - likely missed a bit at the back, but as long as your grease spray has the hose nozzle then you should be the same.
Good to have a look under the car though when it's up on the jacks - needs a good pressure hose t get rid of the muck - must have been well acquaiunted with farm tracks this one
I only managed to get round most of the strut - likely missed a bit at the back, but as long as your grease spray has the hose nozzle then you should be the same.
Good to have a look under the car though when it's up on the jacks - needs a good pressure hose t get rid of the muck - must have been well acquaiunted with farm tracks this one
#18
I did it last night ByByR1 and it was one of these quick fixes that works - happiness levels back up to 100% :
I only managed to get round most of the strut - likely missed a bit at the back, but as long as your grease spray has the hose nozzle then you should be the same.
Good to have a look under the car though when it's up on the jacks - needs a good pressure hose t get rid of the muck - must have been well acquaiunted with farm tracks this one
I only managed to get round most of the strut - likely missed a bit at the back, but as long as your grease spray has the hose nozzle then you should be the same.
Good to have a look under the car though when it's up on the jacks - needs a good pressure hose t get rid of the muck - must have been well acquaiunted with farm tracks this one
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