I'm seriously considering removing the lateral and trailing links on my 02 STi to powdercoat and replace the bushes. Can this removal be easily done on the drive, and has anyone replaced the bushes at home without at press?

I'm thinking you probably need a press, but I have seen people using sockets etc to wind them in. Anyone got any experience?

 

I have owned cars that I replaced sleeved rubber bushes in . These were front lower wishbones , and top wishbones.
At the time I had no press, so it was done on the floor, with threaded studding 12m/m or 10m/m I cannot remember which diameter?
Used sockets , old steel tubes , wnd anything else that would make up something to press out.
One side will require a socket/ sleeve to press against the link so the old bush will press into the socket/ sleeve.
On the other side you will need something to press against the bush to force it into the sleeve/ socket.
I used wd40 / washing up liqued, at the time, but maybe a silicone spray , and silicone grease would help the installment of the new bushes.
If they have a steel sleeve against the link/ maybe a hacksaw may be needed to cut the sleeve out?

I have seen a link I think on here , but thesy used a press./

I may actually try this myself to change my lateral links.
I have already got STI trailing arms.

Are you polybushing to uprate?

 

Thanks for the info mate. Yep car is 8 years old now so thinking over the summer I might as well do all the bushes in stages and clean up the arms etc also.

 

just refitting mine at the moment (see new thred re lube) and it's a pretty straight foward job, although I'm replacing mine with poly bushes I don't think OE rubber items would be any more difficult to fit the poly bushes simply pressed in with a vice and socket.
a couple of things to consider, firstly the rear toe will need setting after you complete the job, and also if the long retaining bolts (240mm 14mm fine) are seized in (mine were and needed cutting off!!!) they're a TITA to remove without damage and are 22 squid each PLUS vat from subaru!!!

 

It would be poly-bushes mate. I would get 4-wheel alignment done afterward to ensure all was well. Those bolts sound pricey

 

with poly bushes it's dead easy, the trailing arm bushes come in 2 halfs and can be pushed in by hand !!! and yeah the bolts are silly expensive and that's without nuts and washers etc, and I needed x2 both had to be beaten or cut off they were so seized, you'll probably be OK with your car been newer, although mines a 2000my so there's only 3 yrs difference, also my local main dealer doesn't carry them in stock and would have needed to order them from subaru uk, next day delivery but not a lot of good if your trying to get it done in the same day.
I decided not to bother and threaded some 14mm high tensile bar, total cost 6 squid inc new nuts and wahers

 

Sometimes you can be luck and find a local engineering factor who will stock the same bolts for much less. Sounds like you're all sorted though

 

quite right, because in engineering terms it's just a bolt, so long as it's the right tensile strength there should be not problem, although I couldn't get a 240mm m14 fine bolt from my supplier hence threading some bar, I've pretty sure the metal is the correct grade for the job so hopefully it will be fine but I will keep checking them for any sign of problems.

 

I usually recommend STi Group N or Whiteline Plus poly bushes, depending on your tastes. But in the past, I usually recommended people going with the STi pink bits (trailing arms and lateral links) because, frankly, its easier to install. No need to wait to have bushes pressed and installed. Plus the bushes are pillowball.

Another alternative to the STi lateral links are Whiteline adjustable lateral links. You get the poly upgrade as well as easy toe adjustment. Camber can be adjusted slightly but the adjustment is really mainly for toe.

While you are in there, i highly suggest you also replacing the rubber bush in the rear knuckle (that the trailing arm attaches to). This is often neglected but makes a huge difference in rear end precision as well.

 

The STi bits would be my first choice but I can't find a UK or European supplier for them all?

 

Put a light dose of copper grease on any steel to steel surfaces (not threads!) to prevent future seizing. Took me 3 hours to replace just one lateral adjuster bush the other weekend. Hack-sawing upside down isn't fun...

 

https://www.scoobynet.com/863900-loads-to-do-3.html

Nearly finished mine. From page three onward are some of the problems I had.

 

Thats ok that I expected them to be more, just had exactly the same experiance as you a good 50hours have gone blow torching, and plus gasing and all sortsto try an save that bolt which we eventually did, we were going to look into getting them from an engineering company maybe. Where do you go to get your prices for scoob o.e bits as I'm thinking about just putting about 4 standard bushes in rather than having a mix of poly?

 

surely thats getting abit expensive is it not?

 

Wow, what the hell happened to the UK Subaru tuning market? I was looking through a few of the Subaru tuning sites and no one carries STi suspension parts anymore. That is very, very sad.

As to the cost, it costs a bit more compared to buy those parts outright but probably maybe only 30% more over swapping bushes on the stock parts (labor/bush cost) and not including your down time while you wait for the stuff to be installed. I preferred the convenience of the preassembled part as well as the benefits of the pillow ball bushing in the STi pink bits. I think the STi lat links and trailing arms will set you back about 900-1000 GBP.

http://rallispec.com/prod_susp.htm

Once again, I have to point out the massive change in the market of these cars. When these cars first came out in the late 90's, early 2000's they were fairly pricey items with a pretty small aftermarket. 95% of the parts out there were high quality, high performance solutions and the prices reflected that. There were no BC Racing or cheap EBay brands. We only had STi, Cusco, Prodrive, Bilstein, Whiteline and Öhlins. That is what we had to buy in order to modify our cars. Now there are dozens of cheap, horrible quality knock-offs out there. And the new folk buying a scoob for 1000 quid is going to feel weird about spending 3-5 times that on quality suspension parts from the above mentioned brands. It just doesn't compute. So, unfortunately, we have a new mentality like posted above (no offense meant) that questions spending several thousands of pounds on their suspension (only). The result is a cheapening and reduction of the performance experience these cars are able to provide. I'm sorry, I don't mean to pontificate about not wanting to spend the money. i can understand that, surely.

Its just, I feel the quality of the parts is worth every cent. Its worth saving up an extra couple of months to buy something that will perform better and last longer than the cheap Ebay knock-offs.

 

I got mine from Litchfields, but the exchange rate has gone "down the pan" since then...

 

yeah, very true.

 

What you put back on the car will be determined by budget and what you use the car for. If the car is a road car only then it makes no sense to put adjustable lateral arms on as you just dont need the adjustment there is plenty toe adjustment on the eccentric bolt on the subframe.

To remove the standard bushes without a press, you can chain drill round the rubber section and remove it then hack saw very carefully through the steel sleeve with the cuts either 180 deg apart or pref three cuts 120 deg appart. You can then prize it out.
If the car is a road car and you just want to stiiffen things up slightly then go for poly bushes. If the car is a pure track car then a rose jointed/bearing set up would be a better option but again cost plays a part.

 

Went and got a second hand coplete subframe with good bushes and its off a turbo so has the roll bar too so its actually a upgrade, all for 35 quid posted! Thats proper home maintenance Lol