SekretSkwirl02

recently installed a set of used AST Sportline 2' Coilovers on my '02 WRX. Nice looking set-up...quiet too-NO stiction issues what so ever. We set the ride height at stock, the dampening at 7 Front and 6 Rear. For your information the alignment is set at 2.0 front and 1.5 rear...the toe of course is '0' for daily driving. Problem>seem unbearably firm..even at 160 kph the car is 'upset' at every undulation. Enough so to make me say my prayers more than a few times..very scary. Also the set has appx. 10,000 k on them and "look fresh". The car just 'hops' down the road-absorbs nothing, just my nervous system. This can't be normal? danielle

dynamix

iTrader: (3)

I would say soften the damper settings - do you know what the springs are in the kits as there are different strength versions?

911

Dead right.

If:

50/40 front/rear rates, set to 7/6 or 7/5
60/50 set to 9/7 or 10/8

If 40/30 (road spec) then try 5/3 or 6/4

All numbers are clicks from fully soft.

If in doubt set to fully soft and drive the car .
Always use the same 'test road' and take it easy.

you will find the sweet spot. Welcome to getting coil-overs right.

Graham (been there etc and on my set of 3 ways now(

jd5217

just had quote from Powerstation for mine.

SekretSkwirl02

Tried all the 'clicks' from 1 to 12...seems were adjusting the ride height a bit high..'Did it to avoid the snow and such. You see we live at the TOP of Donner Summit in California and maybe you know this is one of the 'snowiest' god forsaken places on planet earth. Today the car is to be lowered . Right now we are 1/2" above stock wrx ride height. By the way does it matter if the 'Helper Spring' is on the BOTTOM and not the TOP? We bought these used and with no service manual or tool kit so basically we are in the dark(the old owner is sending these items soon). So what ride heights do you guys recommend> measured from the center of the wheel to the edge of the fender.

SekretSkwirl02

we just lowered the car to> 14 1/2 front and 13 1/2 rear (measured of course from wheel center to lip of fender') Also the spring rates are: front 200-50-64 and the rears are:250-30-64.. helpers all say 100 . Now that we lowered it the TOE is off so might have to address that. Let you know how the test drive goes later, danielle

SekretSkwirl02

The springs have these #'s on them Front> 200-50-64 and the Rears> 250-30-64... JUST drove the car with the new ride height and set the dampening to 2 f and r and it's still hoppy but not as bad. At 170 kph the car was still hopping on undulations...very unsettling...not quite as bad as before though. What is the SWEET SPOT' on these.?

corradoboy

I used to vary mine depending on what driving I was doing. Around town I'd have them at 1 or 2, fast road driving in the wet maybe 4 or so, dry fast roads 6 or 7, and up to about 9 maybe on track. I'd wonder if you have the stiffer springs if the dampers are failing to make the ride comfortable set at 2 If you haven't already done it, I'd also consider uprating the rear ARB and links to improve turn-in and mid-bend stability.

SekretSkwirl02

The car has a whitline 22-24 rear bar as well as a whiteline adj. 22 front bar...so corroda can you tell me what my spring rates are by those numbers I posted?

corradoboy

Sorry, not that technical. I'm sure 911 or his mate Fuzz will be along soon to help. If I were to guess I'd say that maybe you have 50/30 F/R which is a bit of an odd combination. 50F is more track orientated where 30R is a good road spring. As 911 says above, 60/50 or 50/40 are track springs, with 40/30 fast road. I wonder if someone was trying to achieve precise turn-in with a grippy rear to avoid oversteer

SekretSkwirl02

what are my spring options with these ?? The roads here are terrible at best so a forgiving spring set is required

corradoboy

Funny, us Brits always assume the roads in California would be good compared to our 3rd world WRC gravel stages. I'd say it may be worth changing the front 50 springs for some 40's, but I'd await confirmation from those more knowledgeable than me. Keeping the ride height up a little will give some extra travel, and make sure you don't go too small on tyre profile.

SekretSkwirl02

Not where I live in the Sierra Mountains...atrocious tarmac and the trucks w/chains + the freezing and unfreezing just breaks them up..I run a 55 series in the SUMMER and 60 series in the WINTER. The locals laugh at LOW PROFILE tires especially in Winter...makes no sense. I might as well have a 15" rally set for the winter. IF you go down the hill' to the city and valleys all the kids' have their cars lowered too much with 40 series and 18's and STIFF...

corradoboy

Easy to forget there's more to CA than Malibu and Hollywierd. Must be lovely up there in the mountains. Even with the piddling amount of snow we get here in Blighty our Scoobs are hopeless in it. Our STi's come fitted with these...



...which aren't too good in the wet, let alone freezing conditions.

911

I used to live/work in Sonoma Valley North Cal and the roads are billiard tables (sorry, Pool tables!), but i drove to Reno once to see the Harrah Collection, and the roads are indeed crap!

My experience of spring rates/damping are on good British roads, bet you discuss with Andy/Curtis/Rick at Powerstation.

You may need more than the right springs...

Graham

The right way round for the springs:



But i doubt it makes any difference as the helpers totally collapse to flat with the car's weight!
These fab 3 ways have been on my hillclimb car (Autosolo to you USA guys) for 14 months now.

SekretSkwirl02

Good points Sir Graham...the 50/30's have definitely improved as we got the ride height proper and the dampening settled. Almost tolerable. AST is sending me some 40n for the front and I think with the dampening set nice it could be a GREAT set-up for these D roads. We'll probaby go for a seperate track set and get the 40n rears to match up the 50's coming off the vehicle. Always good to have that option. Our car is set w/ 22 arb's front and rear>both adjustable(middle hole in rear and soft up front) with whiteline links to match, aluminum control arms and front and rear upper and lower strut bars by the way. No ALK yet. Also it amazes me what a bad reputation AST has in the states and to hear all of you guys RAVE about them. RCE tells the story of BAD CUSTOMER SERVICE and LONGEVITY ISSUES....maybe you can clarify that with all your experience with AST, thanks Danielle

911

There will always be contra opinions on all aspects of Impreza tuning in the UK! We are VERY free with our opinions!!

Accordingly, you will find this with the AST's.
If you have a long time and pleanty of coffee have a look at:
https://www.scoobynet.com/projects-4...t-chassis.html

I have had off Powerstation the 'simple' (so effective though) AST 'One-Way' adjustables on my Classic 1997 Sti v3 with 50/40 and 60/50 rate springs.
These were fitted to a well modified chassis, the key change being the anti roll bars and the Noltec top mounts to almost double the castor.

After these I had the fab 3 way adjustable AST's with 60/50's and the car was quite a bit faster.
Why?

They simply build confidence to the driver when the car is under pressure especially in the wet.
The hill climbing I do is very demanding and the tracks are usually lined with big old trees that hurt if you hit them, so you place a lot of faith in the chassis above all else. Some are more open so you go faster!

My AST's have covered several thousand road miles and 20 events where runs over the rumble strips at 80 mph speeds knock hell out of the suspension and alignment.
The units are faultless.

I only speak as I find.

I will happily tell you all the mods to the car if you wish, but here are a few clips from this year:
DropShots Day
DropShots Day
DropShots Day

The service I get from the sole AST distributor (Powerstation) is first class, but you do need to approach these people (as any specialist) with some thought and 'knowledge'.
Screeming down the phone '...and the units are crap' doesn't work too well; more needed is '....the suspension is not working well in these areas because they are doing this-n-that etc'

Hope this helps a bit.
Graham

SekretSkwirl02

A screamer that car of yours! I had seen those vids' during my search and many of your opinions. I agree you must respect your distributor and tuner.... TOUGH JOB dealing with a demanding and sometimes ignorant public.This caster issue is interesting...does a lot for the car. Does'nt an ALK improve caster as well? But DOUBLING CASTOR...oooh I get excited when you talk like that Noltec top mounts? are they noisy...my Cusco Plates drive me batty w/NVH- especially the rears for daily commute. My good freind Mike of Big Sky fame insists the NOLTECS are OEM' quiet. What is your opinion on this subject. IF I only recieved a gift of 'double castor readings' for Christmas I'd be oh so happy...forget the PONY

911

I had Noltec road spec (there are race specs too).
Quiet as a church door nail. No NVH issues at all for me. At that time I had the one-way AST's with Noltec front stock Sti v3 rear.

I now have AST 3 way with AST top mounts (rce spec) all round, no NVH at all!
Might sound stupid, but i put a drop of oil on the top mount bearings once a month!

The ALK places a tiny additional amount of castor into the front, but nothing like the Noltecs do. I have both the ALK and the AST mounts on the car to max the front. This gives killer turn-in and no understeer in all but the slowest bends where too much power too early can induce a bit.
Before the mods the car would (just) get through bends on FULL LOCK, not opposite lock!
Nowadays I don't have this problem.

Graham

SekretSkwirl02

NO NVH...I'll take that for Christmas on top of the Big Time Caster'. Are the AST top mounts metal to metal? NEVER seen them..spied the RCE's though and a bit pricey at this time. Going with the Group N top mounts all around for the time. All this talk about caster and opposite lock' is working me into a frenzy...which usually leads to a temporarily empty pocket book

911

This is a VERY slippy slope, but the car is transformed after...
The AST's are metal to metal top mounts front and rear.
I am sure the drop of oil makes all the difference to longevity.
Graham.

Go for it!

Noltecs:

AST's: