What's better LEDA/DMS/Prodrive?
03 October 2001, 07:51 AM
#2
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Get the ones you can get serviced locally.
I think the DMS's would be a good choice over there, since I've seen quite a few on the i-club that are using them...and IIRC there's a US based dealer as well.
/J - I'm using Leda B's, and I love 'em.
I think the DMS's would be a good choice over there, since I've seen quite a few on the i-club that are using them...and IIRC there's a US based dealer as well.
/J - I'm using Leda B's, and I love 'em.
04 October 2001, 03:11 PM
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IMHO - The Prodrive is good, but too hard to live with day to day. The Leda is simply awsome on my MY01. Can't comment on the DMS.
But i would say getting whatever you buy fitted properly will probably have a big difference.
Andy
But i would say getting whatever you buy fitted properly will probably have a big difference.
Andy
09 October 2001, 10:46 AM
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DMS = EXCELLENT FOR TRACK BUT VERY FIRM FOR UK ROADS
LEDA = EVERY ONE SAYS AWESOME
PRODRIVE = EXPENSIVE
How about eibachs at TSL et al (circa £350 all in inc geometry check and alignment).
Made a huge difference to my car!!! Can you afford £1400 for the odd track day - if so the Leda's seem to be good alrounders in most peoples opinions - and DMS are excelent track kit - but ive heard they are VERY firm for every day use!!
Jza
LEDA = EVERY ONE SAYS AWESOME
PRODRIVE = EXPENSIVE
How about eibachs at TSL et al (circa £350 all in inc geometry check and alignment).
Made a huge difference to my car!!! Can you afford £1400 for the odd track day - if so the Leda's seem to be good alrounders in most peoples opinions - and DMS are excelent track kit - but ive heard they are VERY firm for every day use!!
Jza
09 October 2001, 01:07 PM
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I've driven cars with Leda and Prodrive suspension, and settled for the Prodrive one!
The Leda cars seem very hard (although it may have been the setting) as I thought my fillings were going to fall out! A bit of a problem, as I use my car everyday on the roads and not on the track!
I guess in their purest form, the Ledas are a race item (like DMS), and as so you would expect them to be rebuilt on a regular basis.
The Prodrive suspension provided a softer ride, yet it seem to do the business on the roads! I'm now on my second car, and it's the second one with the Prodrive setup. I have made the ride a bit firmer by replacing the drop links with solid items (but that's a different story!)
As for expense, the price of the DMS items put me off (supply price was more expensive than other options fitted!); the hassle of taking my car to Leda, as well as needing them rebuilt later put me off them; and the Prodrive gear is not that expensive (if you talk nicely to the parts manager!)
Best option is to take a ride in the cars with the various options fitted, and see which fulfils your requirements best!
Andy
The Leda cars seem very hard (although it may have been the setting) as I thought my fillings were going to fall out! A bit of a problem, as I use my car everyday on the roads and not on the track!
I guess in their purest form, the Ledas are a race item (like DMS), and as so you would expect them to be rebuilt on a regular basis.
The Prodrive suspension provided a softer ride, yet it seem to do the business on the roads! I'm now on my second car, and it's the second one with the Prodrive setup. I have made the ride a bit firmer by replacing the drop links with solid items (but that's a different story!)
As for expense, the price of the DMS items put me off (supply price was more expensive than other options fitted!); the hassle of taking my car to Leda, as well as needing them rebuilt later put me off them; and the Prodrive gear is not that expensive (if you talk nicely to the parts manager!)
Best option is to take a ride in the cars with the various options fitted, and see which fulfils your requirements best!
Andy
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09 October 2001, 05:49 PM
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Andy
Are you talking about the Prodrive WR or the latest Prodrive Professional kit, because here in Greece - maybe be the same as in UK - they are completely different priced:
Prodrive WR: 680.000GRD = 1220GBP
Prodrive Prof: 1.000.000GRD = 1785GBP not cheap at all plus VAT
!!!
JIM
Are you talking about the Prodrive WR or the latest Prodrive Professional kit, because here in Greece - maybe be the same as in UK - they are completely different priced:
Prodrive WR: 680.000GRD = 1220GBP
Prodrive Prof: 1.000.000GRD = 1785GBP not cheap at all plus VAT
!!!JIM
09 October 2001, 06:37 PM
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Jim,
I have the Prodrive WR kit, and it cost me about 75% of the price you quoted!!
But I know someone who got the professional kit for about 66% of the price you quote!! :ekk:
Draw your own conclusions as to whether they were expensive or not!!
Andy
I have the Prodrive WR kit, and it cost me about 75% of the price you quoted!!
But I know someone who got the professional kit for about 66% of the price you quote!!
:ekk:Draw your own conclusions as to whether they were expensive or not!!
Andy
09 October 2001, 06:50 PM
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Ok Andy
Could then enlighten me - suggest me a dealer or mail-order shop where I can buy it in that price?
Or
just tell me the source of your friend...of the air of course .
Thanks in advance!
JIM
Could then enlighten me - suggest me a dealer or mail-order shop where I can buy it in that price?
Or
just tell me the source of your friend...of the air of course .Thanks in advance!
JIM
10 October 2001, 03:16 PM
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<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:<HR>Originally posted by Danny Fisher:
<B>Leda = Rebuild EVERY year, or 5 miles.
Dan[/quote]
Danny thank you for your wise words
Recommended rebuild is 30,000 miles or two years. That said I know of customers that have been using them for 4 years and have never had a rebuild. The dampers have a full 12 months warranty.
A rebuild will restore the control that new dampers give, something that isn't possible with other makes, which are scrap when worn out.
Just over a year ago, 18 cars (9% of the amount fitted at that time) had a knocking problem. All were rebuilt under warranty.
<B>All </B>performance dampers run much hotter than standard units, due to the extra work they do. The main consequences are a slightly higher wear rate in valve seats and seals, plus a shorter life for the damping oil.
<B>Leda = Rebuild EVERY year, or 5 miles.
Dan[/quote]
Danny thank you for your wise words
Recommended rebuild is 30,000 miles or two years. That said I know of customers that have been using them for 4 years and have never had a rebuild. The dampers have a full 12 months warranty.
A rebuild will restore the control that new dampers give, something that isn't possible with other makes, which are scrap when worn out.
Just over a year ago, 18 cars (9% of the amount fitted at that time) had a knocking problem. All were rebuilt under warranty.
<B>All </B>performance dampers run much hotter than standard units, due to the extra work they do. The main consequences are a slightly higher wear rate in valve seats and seals, plus a shorter life for the damping oil.
10 October 2001, 05:44 PM
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My car had the said problem with knocking struts, and I had the car over to Leda in Braintree this summer.
The rear struts stopped knocking...for a while...now they're back to "normal" again. Oh dear...
BUT!!! I haven't noticed any ill effects from this, so I've decided to live with it, you've got to admit that they transform the car from a regular drive to something extraordinarily - at least me mate said so.
Cheers
/J
The rear struts stopped knocking...for a while...now they're back to "normal" again. Oh dear...
BUT!!! I haven't noticed any ill effects from this, so I've decided to live with it, you've got to admit that they transform the car from a regular drive to something extraordinarily - at least me mate said so.
Cheers
/J
11 October 2001, 09:56 AM
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Danny,
When the car has been standing, the damping oil will be cold and there is always more noise, as it is too thick. This is the same with Leda, DMS, Proflex and all performance dampers. I have driven a DMS car that sounded like it was falling apart, but the noise virtually went, when the units had warmed up. Even the standard units are noisier on a cold morning, but to a lesser extent than performance dampers, down to the amount of work they are doing.
The problem can be almost completely eliminated using clever valve design and the latest damper oils, but there is no damping oil which is perfect below 20degC and still perfect at over 80degC.
When the car has been standing, the damping oil will be cold and there is always more noise, as it is too thick. This is the same with Leda, DMS, Proflex and all performance dampers. I have driven a DMS car that sounded like it was falling apart, but the noise virtually went, when the units had warmed up. Even the standard units are noisier on a cold morning, but to a lesser extent than performance dampers, down to the amount of work they are doing.
The problem can be almost completely eliminated using clever valve design and the latest damper oils, but there is no damping oil which is perfect below 20degC and still perfect at over 80degC.
11 October 2001, 09:07 PM
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Pete, I dont know of anyone around my way that runs DMS, Avo or anyother aftermarket suspension, other than leda users. Some have been lucky and not had too many issues with a knocking noise, but some do, even after a rebuild. I think I need to find someone using the other makes.
Dan
Dan
12 October 2001, 09:35 AM
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I've been driving with DMS 40 mm for 3 months now (after my Intrax suspension started to rattle like crazy ), and yup, the rears started "knocking" when cold after 1 month.
A few questions ...
1) why is it that mostly the rears start knocking (in my limited experience), while I would think the fronts are doing a bit more work ?
2) what exactly causes the knocking ?
3) could it be related to the quality of the top mounts ?
4) can I just live with it, or is it damaging to the dampers in a way ?
Apart from the knocking, I'm rather satisfied with the DMS, as they really go from "rather comfy" (normal road use, about 17 clicks) to "great on track" (24 clicks worked very well at Zolder this week).
Oh and a last question: Why do they get quiter when you spray a bit of WD40 at the point where the damper enters the strut ?
Theo
), and yup, the rears started "knocking" when cold after 1 month.A few questions ...
1) why is it that mostly the rears start knocking (in my limited experience), while I would think the fronts are doing a bit more work ?
2) what exactly causes the knocking ?
3) could it be related to the quality of the top mounts ?
4) can I just live with it, or is it damaging to the dampers in a way ?
Apart from the knocking, I'm rather satisfied with the DMS, as they really go from "rather comfy" (normal road use, about 17 clicks) to "great on track" (24 clicks worked very well at Zolder this week).
Oh and a last question: Why do they get quiter when you spray a bit of WD40 at the point where the damper enters the strut ?
Theo
22 October 2001, 09:48 PM
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Quicky question...
How much is a LEDA B Rebuild???? I have had mine for 1 year and about 14000 miles on them... I don't think I need one but just for my own reference...How do you know when its time to rebuild???? Thanks
Scooby South
How much is a LEDA B Rebuild???? I have had mine for 1 year and about 14000 miles on them... I don't think I need one but just for my own reference...How do you know when its time to rebuild???? Thanks
Scooby South
30 October 2001, 01:42 AM
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I've had the Leda B for about 3 years now. Whilst the inherent knocking noise can drive you round the bend (no pun intended) it seems to have little effect on the performance.
I've had to have several rebuilds on mine (in 30k mls) from worn internals, corroded shafts, to leaking seals. However, the service Leda offer is fist class.
Pete,
Why the heck can we get oils for our engines that are good for -20 to +130deg'C, but not a suitable oil to work in the 20 ~ 80 deg' range for shocks ???
I think like most things, you get what you pay for (Prodrive aside). DMS have a fantastic reputation for perfomance, and quality, and the "ride" is down to the spring rates you choose. Proflex are in a different world. Whilst their "basic" set start at about £1200, the next set up (same features as Leda B) are about £4000, and are used in "serious" competition.
Mark.
I've had to have several rebuilds on mine (in 30k mls) from worn internals, corroded shafts, to leaking seals. However, the service Leda offer is fist class.
Pete,
Why the heck can we get oils for our engines that are good for -20 to +130deg'C, but not a suitable oil to work in the 20 ~ 80 deg' range for shocks ???
I think like most things, you get what you pay for (Prodrive aside). DMS have a fantastic reputation for perfomance, and quality, and the "ride" is down to the spring rates you choose. Proflex are in a different world. Whilst their "basic" set start at about £1200, the next set up (same features as Leda B) are about £4000, and are used in "serious" competition.
Mark.
30 October 2001, 10:14 AM
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Mark
I guess its down to the base viscocity and what they can do from there. The oils used are very runny, more like "3in1" than engine oil.
Both Leda and Ohlins use Silkolene damper oil and this is alledgedly the best currently available.
I guess its down to the base viscocity and what they can do from there. The oils used are very runny, more like "3in1" than engine oil.
Both Leda and Ohlins use Silkolene damper oil and this is alledgedly the best currently available.
08 November 2001, 11:21 AM
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I've had DMS 50mm struts on my car for about 15 months and I am quite pleased with them. At their softer settings, I'm certain they are up to the task of British roads, and at their stiffer settings they are marvelous on a track. If the price of the 50mm kit puts you off, look at the 40mm DMS Gold kits. Someone just won STS class in ProSolo using them.
I recently had one of my struts rebuilt after a car drive into the rear left wheel at a fair clip. The strut body was twisted, but all the other parts were retained and put into a new body. DMS struts are definitely not scrap when they get rebuilt.
I concur with those who have suggested you go try different suspension systems. A lot of the decision comes to personal preference, as all the systems you listed have their advocates and detractors.
Ben
I recently had one of my struts rebuilt after a car drive into the rear left wheel at a fair clip. The strut body was twisted, but all the other parts were retained and put into a new body. DMS struts are definitely not scrap when they get rebuilt.
I concur with those who have suggested you go try different suspension systems. A lot of the decision comes to personal preference, as all the systems you listed have their advocates and detractors.
Ben
