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Worth doing caster mod?

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Old 21 February 2020, 10:56 PM
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Croney
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Default Worth doing caster mod?

Soon I will be booking my 2003 blob sti in for a full geo set up, as I have had some parts off for a cean up, should I do the free castor mod ?? Im runing kyb ultra sr, and WAA2 spring from 2pot on here, The car is mainly a B road blaster. Is it worth mid and should I add extra spacing?
Not sure how to link in 2pots user to the thread?
Old 22 February 2020, 01:18 PM
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joe v3sti
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Even better than the castor mod, is machined castor Arms from AS performance. Great mod and good value too
Old 23 February 2020, 01:07 PM
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Flip the pins 180 deg. If you're unlucky, you might damage the aluminium threads undoing the bolts

If you use spacers, you'll need longer 10.9 grade, high tensile, bolts (not 12.9) flanged or with 4 x high tensile washers - ensure the bolt/spacer combination doesn't contact the chassis rail. You may need to use a thinner spacer and/or cut the end off the bolts - I've never found the perfect length bolts. Two, of the 4, will be longer, after you've cut the bolts down - as the lower control arm widens.

The AS Performance modified arms (attached) are nice, I'd rather have them with group n rubber in the rear bushes and stock rubber in the front bush. Don't know what the turn around time would be if you bent one? As I believe you send in your own arms to be modified?

Are you using Whiteline top mounts?
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Last edited by 2pot; 23 February 2020 at 01:09 PM.
Old 23 February 2020, 10:15 PM
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Croney
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Yeah im using the white line top mounts, think I might just flip the pin as I dont want to run into clearance idsues
Old 24 February 2020, 11:39 AM
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2pot
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The stock flanged bolts are m12 x 37mm 1.25 pitch 10.9 grade (don't use 12.9).
You could use 3mm spacers and flip the pin with some 40mm long flanged bolts - no clearance issues to the chassis rail.

If you used thicker spacers and longer bolts, you'd have to run a tap through the threaded holes, as the hole continues through the arm, but not the thread.
You'd probably still have to shorten the bolts to finish flush with the arm, so clearing the chassis rail, throughout the arm's arc of travel.

If you can't get flanged bolts you could use, form A, M12, 10.9 grade, high tensile washers and add 3mm onto the bolt length.

Last edited by 2pot; 24 February 2020 at 04:37 PM.
Old 24 February 2020, 10:33 PM
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Croney
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Thats great, when i make the spacers do they need to be steel? Or will aluminium be or?
Old 24 February 2020, 10:41 PM
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2pot
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I'd use aluminium.
Don't forget to make the spacer match the correct side of the flipped pin! As each side of the pin is slightly different.
Old 28 February 2020, 11:07 AM
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nico1131
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What is the modification done by AS performance ? They make a specific pin with a spacer ?
Old 28 February 2020, 05:13 PM
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2pot
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Maybe?:
A hardened spacer, a reduced height, high tensile, coneloc nut (10.9 grade?) on the pin, and the front bush housing has been milled away - 'SUBARU' became 'SUBAI' (on the above example) to alter the positioning of the front bush.

I assume the spacer size and then a related amount of milling of the arm, will combine to dictate the required amount of extra caster.
Old 22 April 2020, 09:36 PM
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RobsyUK
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@Croney did you do this?
Old 23 April 2020, 08:51 AM
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If you want an easier and free castor mod, if you are running coilovers then flip and rotate the top mounts, combined with the whiteline ALK this will get you over 5 degrees of castor which makes for good handling characteristics
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Old 24 April 2020, 11:17 AM
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Croney
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No didnt try it, I was going do it this last month but the place I get my alignment done are closed, scooby has just been parked up for the last 5 weeks as its a second car, so im putting it off untill then. Im going to continue to clean the underside up while its off the road, I had the struts off last year and cleaned up all the arch/wheel well area. Would love to strip everything off the bottom but im worried about getting it all back together in my garage on stands
Old 24 April 2020, 05:36 PM
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IainMilford
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Originally Posted by Croney
No didnt try it, I was going do it this last month but the place I get my alignment done are closed, scooby has just been parked up for the last 5 weeks as its a second car, so im putting it off untill then. Im going to continue to clean the underside up while its off the road, I had the struts off last year and cleaned up all the arch/wheel well area. Would love to strip everything off the bottom but im worried about getting it all back together in my garage on stands
It is doable, I did this over the winter on my own. There were a few well rusted on bolts but a breaker bar and the jack handle managed to take care of them. The trickiest bit was getting the diff back in on my own but I set up a precarious system of balancing it on the jack and some paintpots and got there in the end
Old 08 June 2020, 10:08 PM
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IainMilford
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Does anyone know the torque specs for the 2 bolts holding the pin onto the arm please ?
Old 08 June 2020, 10:23 PM
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2pot
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155N/m
Old 09 June 2020, 07:53 AM
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IainMilford
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Originally Posted by 2pot
155N/m
thanks 👍
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