Just finished installing an exhaust system on the car, when doing the downpipe I noticed that the OSF SuperPro drop link has come adrift.

I took off the drop link and popped the bush back in, reinstalled and went for a short drive.

Checked again and found that it has popped out again!!!

The ARB is also a SuperPro item, it moves from side to side when one drop link is removed, I assume thats normal?

Any ideas?

 

Put a giant washer to stop it from coming out.

 

I'm not a fan of them links on a classic, fit the original style ones with ajustable arms and they is too much of a tilt on them link IMO on classics.
Too much tilt strain has caused it to pop off. Also as said above giant washer should be used on the outer bolts where exposed just like you have on top bolt.

Superpro do a oe type link with rose joint arms, that's what I have fitted, or whiteline ajustable

 

I thought that type of solid link wasn't suitable for alloy arms?
You need the ball joint type. Or I'm pretty sure whiteline do a spacer to suit their solid ones.

 

Theres a perfect example on why you shouldnt fit steel arm drop links on alloy arms....no matter who tells you otherwise

As above replace with oe ball n socket type

 

You need these.

 

Cheers chaps, didn't know it was a bad idea to fit solid link to alloy arms.

Busta, are those WhiteLine drop links?

EDIT* Just seen you have SuperPro ones.

 

I'll post a pick of mine tomorrow, just to question your conviction.
(to lazy to go down the garage now).

 

They should work fine (I know these are WL, but they're very similar)

 

Yep, the whiteline are adjustable and more money lol
Look at the rubber, they are under pressure and will perish over time imo.

 

Droplinks look absolutely perfect given manufacturing tolerances of bar and assembly tolerances of the car. Look how the mounting tab on the control arm is pretty much parallel to the face of the droplink. Its about the same for the bar end to the droplink too. Properly mounted droplinks do not sit completely vertical, they are canted inwards a bit, as seen in the pic. Good to go there.

These are on my 330bhp Type R and are 5 years old and still good

 

i disagree based on better lateral movement the ball/socket type allow for but thats just opinions

whiteline adjustable ones are not necessary either unless you are heavily lowered and need to adjust the height of rollbar to stop fouling

saying that...you can make your own for about £50 all in...heres ones i made only my old spec D for a bit of craic albeit i put them on rear but nowt stopping you doing a set for the front

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y18...psb296d75c.jpg

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y18...psda1b2ca2.jpg

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y18...ps835632ff.jpg

 

Im pretty sure you posted/created a thread of something simlar couple of years back and i think you also agreed with what im saying, you posted a picture of 3 dropliinks side by side showing how much strain on each droplink had.
Correct me if im wrong or wrong person, I believe arnie was also on said thread.

Manufacturers of aftermarket parts will say anything to sell a product imo, may work, but doesn't look right imo.
They even sell these droplinks for alloy and steel arms and only difference is washers

 

Love 'em

Did they hold up ok?

 

That thread was about CDF DL's being droop limiters

 

held up for a year (daily driver) before i got a rattle in one. i assume water/dirt got in past the wee rubber dust seal - i reckon if you packed the dust seal with marine grade grease theyd hold up no bother, rose joints themselves are self lubricating.

come to think of it i used BMW e39 rear droplinks for the front as they are a fraction of the price but identically the same as STI fronts

 

Yes something like that if I recall, simlar to them really.

 

Cheers for the help with this chaps. A set of the SuperPro socket/ball type should be with me tomorrow.