Camber Adjustment
#1
Camber Adjustment
Not sure if its standard on all classic WRX`s, but i have sti KYB pink shocks n springs, the top bolt that holds them to the hub is elongated and allows the hub to adjust the camber, hub moves more inwards or outwards at the top.
So, i know a geometry setup would be best but i cant do that right now, ive had to remove the hubs and am now refitting them,so
my question, do i have the top of the hub more inwards or outwards for good handling ? (positive or negative camber ? )
like i say i know a setup would sort it all but i want a base setting so i can bolt it all together then get a setup done at a later date
cheers
So, i know a geometry setup would be best but i cant do that right now, ive had to remove the hubs and am now refitting them,so
my question, do i have the top of the hub more inwards or outwards for good handling ? (positive or negative camber ? )
like i say i know a setup would sort it all but i want a base setting so i can bolt it all together then get a setup done at a later date
cheers
Last edited by The Rig; 30 April 2015 at 08:32 PM.
#5
ok bud, thanks, ive gone with the maximum of inwards movement at the moment (full negative) will get an alignment done but cant afford the £100 for a full setup by powerstation just yet, whats the effects off full negative to say full positive camber (will get the tracking done either way)
cheers
cheers
#6
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Increasing front camber is also going to add toe out. You cant change one without affecting the other.
On the track you can use a bit of toe out to help turn in but it not advisable on the road as its going to make the car more nervous and maybe induce tramlining on the road. Same goes for to much camber.
Ideally you want zero toe or a slight toe in on the road. And between 1 to 1 and a half degrees of camber on the front as a good starting point.
Im now running 1.15 of camber with 0.06 of total toe in up front and 1.30 camber and 0.12 total toe at the back. Perfect for sprited road use.
On the track you can use a bit of toe out to help turn in but it not advisable on the road as its going to make the car more nervous and maybe induce tramlining on the road. Same goes for to much camber.
Ideally you want zero toe or a slight toe in on the road. And between 1 to 1 and a half degrees of camber on the front as a good starting point.
Im now running 1.15 of camber with 0.06 of total toe in up front and 1.30 camber and 0.12 total toe at the back. Perfect for sprited road use.
Last edited by InTurbo; 30 April 2015 at 09:57 PM.
#7
ok bud, thanks, it sounds like i cant really guestimate a safe camber then, i wont be affording for at least 6 weeks a full camber/toe and wheel alignment from powerstation, like i say, £100 or soemthing like that, was hoping to set a camber of the hub that would be ok until then, hmmmm
cheers
cheers
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#8
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If you have removed the hubs by breaking the ball joint tapers and not un-screwing them off the rack arms, then 'maxing-out' your camber by 'tipping' the hub all the way on the strut clevis will probably be fine
Thing is 'maxing-out' camber this way gives bewtween 1.5 and just under 2° neg camber anyway, which will be pretty much where you were before, and most likely with no negative (!) effects
By the way £100 for an alignment is quite frankly a rip-off
I go to a local garage which have a Hunter system and they charge anything from £12 for a simple toe check/adjustment to £35 if he has to adjust rear as well and if everything needs changing after a full strut install etc maybe £50 max
Thing is is to roughly know what settings you're after before going and make sure they set those (which are in reality not all that far away from OE)
Thing is 'maxing-out' camber this way gives bewtween 1.5 and just under 2° neg camber anyway, which will be pretty much where you were before, and most likely with no negative (!) effects
By the way £100 for an alignment is quite frankly a rip-off
I go to a local garage which have a Hunter system and they charge anything from £12 for a simple toe check/adjustment to £35 if he has to adjust rear as well and if everything needs changing after a full strut install etc maybe £50 max
Thing is is to roughly know what settings you're after before going and make sure they set those (which are in reality not all that far away from OE)
#9
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I do what bonesetter does and go to my local tyre place with my own settings, charges £15/20 which in all fairness is a days wage out here (Croatia) but I still wouldn't spend £100 in the UK unless they were doing some serious amount of adjusting with coilovers etc, it's only un-doing a couple of bolts, turning them and tightening them back up for a pretty standard fast road set up on OE suspension, takes about 10 mins a wheel max so where the £100 comes in I'm not too sure, never takes more than 1hr all in and back on the road.
Just give everything a good spray with penetrating oil (mostly the front tie bars) the day before and it should adjust easily, mine always does.
Just give everything a good spray with penetrating oil (mostly the front tie bars) the day before and it should adjust easily, mine always does.
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