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Old Aug 19, 2004 | 11:56 AM
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Default Q for experienced auto electricians

I have recently read a few articles on vehicle thefts that state that immobilisers can be bypassed by running independant power supplies (i.e. a 12v portable drill battery) to the ignition and fuel pump. I was wondering how much truth there is to this, and if/how could someone help prevent this from happening?
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Old Aug 19, 2004 | 04:07 PM
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Originally Posted by jbrayley
I have recently read a few articles on vehicle thefts that state that immobilisers can be bypassed by running independant power supplies (i.e. a 12v portable drill battery) to the ignition and fuel pump. I was wondering how much truth there is to this, and if/how could someone help prevent this from happening?
it is probably the easiest way to overcome immobilisers, introducing your own supply. BUT it is a VERY time consuming operation, and would also not overcome the factory transponder (if fitted) as this would provide an ECU lock. To be honest it is completley unviable at 3 in the morning with a siren screeching its nuts off.
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Old Aug 19, 2004 | 06:29 PM
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it is very easy to do, i had to do it the other day on a legacy that had the alarm problem the customer was there and was shocked it was running within 5 mins. ok i had the keys and the alarm was still going but i was able to drive it to our dealership about 10mins away and on the way there the alarm did stop completely so no more funny looks. and all i needed was 2 bits of wire!
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Old Aug 20, 2004 | 07:56 PM
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I'm not too sure this is the best place to be discussing the DIY guide to nicking cars, sorry bypassing immobilisers?

Chris
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Old Aug 20, 2004 | 09:35 PM
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I am interested to hear this as it gives a good idea of where not to place immobilisation circuits........

I am fitting an alarm to my car at the moment ans from some of the posts I can see what circuits are not worth imobilising, and to be fair it is fairly easy to think how to get around some points ie the fuel pump...

On another note would anyone have any idea where the tach wire would be on a car without a coil? would it come from the coils?

Cheers!
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Old Aug 21, 2004 | 03:23 PM
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just saying really that some alarms are to easy even if they are thatcham(spelling) approved.
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Old Aug 23, 2004 | 01:20 PM
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So is there any methods we can employ to prevent our cars getting stolen using this method - barring adding lots of physical security? I think this is an important topic to address as I suspect a lot of people are under the impression that if they have a cat 1 alarm fitted their cars cannot be stolen without a flatbed or sort



Originally Posted by scoobyboy
just saying really that some alarms are to easy even if they are thatcham(spelling) approved.
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Old Aug 23, 2004 | 03:14 PM
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From: Leeds - It was 562.4bhp@28psi on Optimax, How much closer to 600 with race fuel and a bigger turbo?
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barrier deadlock will deal with this, as will most thatcham Cat 3 devices.

Why bother with a cordless battery.. just some long croc clip leads will work..

Theres allways a way around anything, just depends how much time you spend with wiring diagrams.
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Old Aug 23, 2004 | 07:29 PM
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must say though that you do need the keys still as you can't get around the transponder chip that easy
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Old Aug 26, 2004 | 11:48 AM
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Anybody got any suggestions on a way to prevent this?
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Old Aug 26, 2004 | 11:56 PM
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to be honest, you don't need an external battery to power up the fuel pump, it would be easier to utilise the car battery and a long fly lead. either way, you'll still need access in the car to nick it.

My car is fitted with a cat 1 alarm and immobiliser with a tracking device, but the tuth of the matter is, it'll deter the chancers, but a professional car thief will have the car in a few moments.
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