335bhp to 345/350bhp?
06 March 2014, 04:09 PM
#2
All another mapper can do to increase your power is fiddle the timing, fuel, boost etc differently and try. To be honest, if you put your car on a different rolling road it may read more.
For the sake of 10bhp is it really worth all the hastle? Will you notice the difference on the road?
For the sake of 10bhp is it really worth all the hastle? Will you notice the difference on the road?
06 March 2014, 04:43 PM
#7
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A set of ported Harvey headers and up pipe, decat down pipe and a meth mix map will get you a awesome driving 350+bhp car.
You could also get the turbo ported aswell.
You could also get the turbo ported aswell.
Last edited by L.J.F; 06 March 2014 at 04:52 PM.
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08 March 2014, 10:40 PM
#11
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Yep....
Perrin inlet with CAIK should take it to 350 and free it a little at the top end 
Decent three port (Grimmspeed or similar) and recirc Forge BOV should sharpen the boost up / may get a few more lbs.
if IRC the TSL 333 map gives great midrange and sensible boost. A remap from a good mapper would squeeze a little more.
Go for it.
Then when your bored - get a SC billet turbo to finish it off
Decent three port (Grimmspeed or similar) and recirc Forge BOV should sharpen the boost up / may get a few more lbs. if IRC the TSL 333 map gives great midrange and sensible boost. A remap from a good mapper would squeeze a little more.
Go for it.
Then when your bored - get a SC billet turbo to finish it off
09 March 2014, 10:05 AM
#12
Perrin inlet with CAIK should take it to 350 and free it a little at the top end Decent three port (Grimmspeed or similar) and recirc Forge BOV should sharpen the boost up / may get a few more lbs.
if IRC the TSL 333 map gives great midrange and sensible boost. A remap from a good mapper would squeeze a little more.
Go for it.
Then when your bored - get a SC billet turbo to finish it off
Decent three port (Grimmspeed or similar) and recirc Forge BOV should sharpen the boost up / may get a few more lbs. if IRC the TSL 333 map gives great midrange and sensible boost. A remap from a good mapper would squeeze a little more.
Go for it.
Then when your bored - get a SC billet turbo to finish it off
Also, the standard Subaru air intake system in very good and you don't need to go to CAI to achieve 350bhp. Secondly, an uprated panel filter has been proved as a very good upgrade path for 350bhp.
A 3 port solenoid is also not essential for this power level.
Sorry, not wishing to be difficult.
09 March 2014, 10:06 PM
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Yep
09 March 2014, 10:30 PM
#16
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Well....
Not wishing to be difficult but don't 100% agree with some of the comments. There is certainly no benefit to be had swapping the standard dump valve for an alternative forge recirculating unit, will not sharpen boost or add power or torque in any way.
Also, the standard Subaru air intake system in very good and you don't need to go to CAI to achieve 350bhp. Secondly, an uprated panel filter has been proved as a very good upgrade path for 350bhp.
A 3 port solenoid is also not essential for this power level.
Sorry, not wishing to be difficult.
Also, the standard Subaru air intake system in very good and you don't need to go to CAI to achieve 350bhp. Secondly, an uprated panel filter has been proved as a very good upgrade path for 350bhp.
A 3 port solenoid is also not essential for this power level.
Sorry, not wishing to be difficult.
I believe it was the Subaru guru John Felstead (of SN Hall of Fame) who discovered that a good metal recirc BOV like the Forge gave him another 20+lbs on his current nigh on 500bhp Sti. His reckoning 'ish was that at higher boost pressure the plastic one can leak a little ... his did. It sharpened it all up - a vastly superior part.
As for the three port- the Grimmspeed uses a Manley valve ( only them and one other manufacturer I believe use this design - could be TurboXS) thus creating sharper response etc. Better holding/ control of boost
That was my experience.
I've tried to mod my car from listening to the truly established experts such as Andy F, John Felstead, John Banks, Alan & Martyn Jeffries, Harvey Smith plus some others on here.
Not all 'upgrade components' upgrade performance I agree.
If Brown Pants hasn't found these little changes helpful that's okay. It's a free world man....
I've found that every little helps. Talk to a race team.
. I wanted response, driveability, increased power band ( Harvey up-pipe definitely good with headers).
I now run a safe 452/454 @1.6bar on a Grimmspeed top mount - it's very responsive - boosts at 2900 full whack by 3500. Creates power all the way to 6000 where we slowly ease it off.
Of course you can squeeze more but tbh I don't think it'd be that noticeable and not really worth the extra stresses on the 2.5 lump.
Back to the OP... If it's only headline figures you want then fair play, but if driveability is top dog, then have a little think
A
Last edited by Apostle; 09 March 2014 at 10:33 PM. Reason: Sepllign
09 March 2014, 10:47 PM
#17
Some good info here about the CAIK. Some good varied opinions
https://www.scoobynet.com/scoobynet-...a-warning.html
Each to their own. I'd say the recommendations for a 350bhp car and a 500bhp car will vary somewhat. I'd only suggest you don't need to overspend on lots of unnecessary bits for 350bhp.
Cheers.
https://www.scoobynet.com/scoobynet-...a-warning.html
Each to their own. I'd say the recommendations for a 350bhp car and a 500bhp car will vary somewhat. I'd only suggest you don't need to overspend on lots of unnecessary bits for 350bhp.
Cheers.
09 March 2014, 10:55 PM
#18
P.s. you are completely right about a 3 port helping to control boost better. I have one on my 334bhp car, although it wasn't an essential mod to achieve that figure.
I also understand what you say about dump valves and sure the standard unit has it's limits too, but those limits are beyond the ops target. Personally I have an HKS ssqv fitted to mine which are not everyone's cup of tea. They are the only dump valve designed to be held shut by it's own boost pressure.
Andy.
I also understand what you say about dump valves and sure the standard unit has it's limits too, but those limits are beyond the ops target. Personally I have an HKS ssqv fitted to mine which are not everyone's cup of tea. They are the only dump valve designed to be held shut by it's own boost pressure.
Andy.
10 March 2014, 02:33 PM
#19
One of the problems about tuning is called "The Law of Diminishing Returns".
It's the same with most things.....in my early days, I used to spend a lot of time and money trying to make my Hi-Fi sound better.
Some of the stuff we did, looked like snake oil, but it had some effect. Using a thin layer of Blu-Tack to bond the pickup cartridge to the arm was one. Cost nowt, but deepened the bass and freed the top-end. (this was in the days when vinyl ruled, guys, bear with me, OK) Even turning a ridged turntable platter mat over so that the LP rested on a solid side, seemed to have an effect.
Other things had more effect, but started to cost good money. Speaker cables were a case in point: change from the old bell-wire that used to come with most speakers, or be sold as speaker wire, and you'd hear a noticeable difference when you changed to QED 89 strand at £0.90 per metre. Change up to something like QED silver and you might hear the difference, but now you are paying £4 a metre. Change again to QED Silver Genesis spiral bi-wire at £80 per metre and most folk, using most stereos, won't hear the difference. Some may even think it's worse. Yet it costs 20x more!
So it is with car tuning. Spend a few £££, do a few simple things, you'll feel the difference.
But with most people driving most Scoobs, lots of stuff you do is a case of, "What has it done? Anything?"
Now I'm not saying, therefore, that you shouldn't do it, if it's what you want. Just don't expect amazing results from everything...and watch those £££, they soon become ££££££.
It's the same with most things.....in my early days, I used to spend a lot of time and money trying to make my Hi-Fi sound better.
Some of the stuff we did, looked like snake oil, but it had some effect. Using a thin layer of Blu-Tack to bond the pickup cartridge to the arm was one. Cost nowt, but deepened the bass and freed the top-end. (this was in the days when vinyl ruled, guys, bear with me, OK
) Even turning a ridged turntable platter mat over so that the LP rested on a solid side, seemed to have an effect.Other things had more effect, but started to cost good money. Speaker cables were a case in point: change from the old bell-wire that used to come with most speakers, or be sold as speaker wire, and you'd hear a noticeable difference when you changed to QED 89 strand at £0.90 per metre. Change up to something like QED silver and you might hear the difference, but now you are paying £4 a metre. Change again to QED Silver Genesis spiral bi-wire at £80 per metre and most folk, using most stereos, won't hear the difference. Some may even think it's worse. Yet it costs 20x more!
So it is with car tuning. Spend a few £££, do a few simple things, you'll feel the difference.
But with most people driving most Scoobs, lots of stuff you do is a case of, "What has it done? Anything?"
Now I'm not saying, therefore, that you shouldn't do it, if it's what you want. Just don't expect amazing results from everything...and watch those £££, they soon become ££££££.
10 March 2014, 03:20 PM
#20
Well said Alcazar. There is a moral to the end of that long story!
That's precisely why I wouldn't bother spending any more money to achieve an increase from 335bhp to 350bhp. It will start to get very expensive and you may not be able to quantify the improvement against the spending.
That's precisely why I wouldn't bother spending any more money to achieve an increase from 335bhp to 350bhp. It will start to get very expensive and you may not be able to quantify the improvement against the spending.
10 March 2014, 04:05 PM
#21
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seeing as TSL havent been trading for a while just selling off old stock it might be an idea to find out what power you actually have now and perhaps have a health check as you may find that the cars actually not 333bhp at all and could be in need for a safety tweak.
Engines wear, mods get altered on the car, fuel pumps flow less etc.. I would assume the 333 was added some time back now?
Simon
Engines wear, mods get altered on the car, fuel pumps flow less etc.. I would assume the 333 was added some time back now?
Simon
10 March 2014, 04:07 PM
#22
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All another mapper can do to increase your power is fiddle the timing, fuel, boost etc differently and try. To be honest, if you put your car on a different rolling road it may read more.
For the sake of 10bhp is it really worth all the hastle? Will you notice the difference on the road?
For the sake of 10bhp is it really worth all the hastle? Will you notice the difference on the road?
Simon
10 March 2014, 04:15 PM
#23
remapped a car the other week where the gain at peak power was only 7hp from memory but it gained throughout the rev range around 15-20hp and around 25lb.. owner said it transformed it.. and a very noticable difference but on paper looking at peak power it only gain 7hp.
Simon
Simon
10 March 2014, 05:37 PM
#24
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Simon, I've had the car on r/r at Powerstation (tewksbury) last week, 335/314. Yes, your right, the remap by tsl was long before I had the car. Having had two 2.5 sti's before I miss the torque.
