Service money saving Question
#1
Scooby Newbie
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Essex
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Service money saving Question
Hi guys, new here!
Right, what id like advice on is how i might save money on servicing, what options are but without cutting corners (maybe just some of the cheaper places to get it done local to me (Essex))
Coming up to Xmas and the mrs isn't happy with me spending money on my car at the best of times, not that the kids are missing out...
Car is a 2007 Hatch STI with 38k and is coming up to that dreaded 72month/60k expensive one. Any advice appreciated!
Right, what id like advice on is how i might save money on servicing, what options are but without cutting corners (maybe just some of the cheaper places to get it done local to me (Essex))
Coming up to Xmas and the mrs isn't happy with me spending money on my car at the best of times, not that the kids are missing out...
Car is a 2007 Hatch STI with 38k and is coming up to that dreaded 72month/60k expensive one. Any advice appreciated!
#4
Scooby Newbie
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Essex
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The first reply is more what im looking for and any more helpful suggestions are welcome. The second is not. As i already own the car...And stated my reason in the post...its not a lack of money ill happily spend 500-600 if necessary. Wanted to know any ways of saving money from anyone who may know. Thanks for being so helpful though
#6
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Hertfordshire
Posts: 663
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I wouldn't use the dealers at all, either get a specialist to do it (which will be cheaper) or buy the bits you need (do some research) then do the service yourself.
Servicing the car yourself is not difficult if you have a few tools and are a reasonably practical man.
You might even enjoy giving it a go yourself, feeling of satisfaction and all that
Servicing the car yourself is not difficult if you have a few tools and are a reasonably practical man.
You might even enjoy giving it a go yourself, feeling of satisfaction and all that
#7
Scooby Regular
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Exiled to Finland
Posts: 205
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I would not suggest you use any cheap pattern or non-oem parts..
I would do it all myself but the car doesnt go up my ramps without faffing about with kirbs etc, so I get the garage to do the oil/filter n I do the rest.
I service my car every 5k miles. local any-car garage charges me 30€ to drop the oil n change filter, I usally hang around n chat to the guys as he is going it so I know whats happened. I buy a Subaru 'black' oil filter 14€ as the cost difference between this and a pattern FIAM etc is minimal and the blacks ones are supposed to be quality.
If i really wanted to save cash I could change the oil twice before changing filter as the life of the filters is 10-15k miles.
I get a half decent 5-40 oil.. and change it more often then the book states, main reason being that the car is @ 113k miles so its a little old n dirty.
I dont go down the millers or 'ether' fully synth oils as I do baulk at spending over 120€ a service just on oil.. 40€ on Valvoline 5-40 is enough for me. (stock engine)
I got a KN air filter 40€ that apparently good for 50k miles before cleaning
I get pattern AC air filters for 11€ n fit that myself, takes 15min (30min first time)
I would do it all myself but the car doesnt go up my ramps without faffing about with kirbs etc, so I get the garage to do the oil/filter n I do the rest.
I service my car every 5k miles. local any-car garage charges me 30€ to drop the oil n change filter, I usally hang around n chat to the guys as he is going it so I know whats happened. I buy a Subaru 'black' oil filter 14€ as the cost difference between this and a pattern FIAM etc is minimal and the blacks ones are supposed to be quality.
If i really wanted to save cash I could change the oil twice before changing filter as the life of the filters is 10-15k miles.
I get a half decent 5-40 oil.. and change it more often then the book states, main reason being that the car is @ 113k miles so its a little old n dirty.
I dont go down the millers or 'ether' fully synth oils as I do baulk at spending over 120€ a service just on oil.. 40€ on Valvoline 5-40 is enough for me. (stock engine)
I got a KN air filter 40€ that apparently good for 50k miles before cleaning
I get pattern AC air filters for 11€ n fit that myself, takes 15min (30min first time)
Trending Topics
#8
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Wilts
Posts: 1,123
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
First off, can you operate a set of spanners?
If so, things like oil changes are very easy, if you have never done it before it can be quite worrying.
Next time i change the oil on my car i think ill invest in a fumoto valve, these screw in place of the sump plug and have a tube on them, makes draining the oil. Ery simple as it will go straight into your collector.
When replacing the filter fill it with oil a little at a time until its nearly full
When fully drained replcae sump plug or fumoto valve etc and dont over tighten, use a new crush washer.
Replace the filter and fill it with oil. I dont know the capacity of the hatch - 2.5l??
Disconnect either the fuel pump fuse or coils and crank over to build up oil pressure without actually starting the engine. Then once its cranked a few times, plug it all back in and fire up.
For cam belt there are a few guides and vids on the net, take your time and dont rush, the belts are marked so it shouldnt be too hard. Once back togecther crank over by hand and make sure it all lines up.
Belt tension - you should be able to twist the belt on its longest run about 45 degrees with thumb and forefinger without too much effort
Replcae the belt with a decent quality one, and all tensioners etc at the same time.
I dont know what else is needed for the service.
Brake fluid? If you have a compressor, buy a vac bleeder - one of the best tools i have bought!
1l should be enough if you are careful, and get a decent quality fluid
Coolent? Dunno if the rad has a drain, so remove lowest hose into a big bucket and drain it.
Refilling can be a pain in the *** getting rid of all air locks etc. again there are guides on here.
Gearbox oil?
Thats a bit of a ****. Well, getting the old out isnt. But getting the new stuff in can be.
When i done mine i done the incle scotties cocktail, and the redline shockproof was very thick. Put the bottles oil in a bucket of hot water (unopened) prior to filling.
I used a length of 6mm id pnumatic tube, took the filling caps off the bottles, pulled the hose through the spout bit and you then refill through the dipstick tube. Small id so it takes ages! Warming the oil helps no end tho, especially in this weather.
Air filter is straight forward, spark plugs are a pain in the ***, pollen filter is not hard.
What else is there???
If so, things like oil changes are very easy, if you have never done it before it can be quite worrying.
Next time i change the oil on my car i think ill invest in a fumoto valve, these screw in place of the sump plug and have a tube on them, makes draining the oil. Ery simple as it will go straight into your collector.
When replacing the filter fill it with oil a little at a time until its nearly full
When fully drained replcae sump plug or fumoto valve etc and dont over tighten, use a new crush washer.
Replace the filter and fill it with oil. I dont know the capacity of the hatch - 2.5l??
Disconnect either the fuel pump fuse or coils and crank over to build up oil pressure without actually starting the engine. Then once its cranked a few times, plug it all back in and fire up.
For cam belt there are a few guides and vids on the net, take your time and dont rush, the belts are marked so it shouldnt be too hard. Once back togecther crank over by hand and make sure it all lines up.
Belt tension - you should be able to twist the belt on its longest run about 45 degrees with thumb and forefinger without too much effort
Replcae the belt with a decent quality one, and all tensioners etc at the same time.
I dont know what else is needed for the service.
Brake fluid? If you have a compressor, buy a vac bleeder - one of the best tools i have bought!
1l should be enough if you are careful, and get a decent quality fluid
Coolent? Dunno if the rad has a drain, so remove lowest hose into a big bucket and drain it.
Refilling can be a pain in the *** getting rid of all air locks etc. again there are guides on here.
Gearbox oil?
Thats a bit of a ****. Well, getting the old out isnt. But getting the new stuff in can be.
When i done mine i done the incle scotties cocktail, and the redline shockproof was very thick. Put the bottles oil in a bucket of hot water (unopened) prior to filling.
I used a length of 6mm id pnumatic tube, took the filling caps off the bottles, pulled the hose through the spout bit and you then refill through the dipstick tube. Small id so it takes ages! Warming the oil helps no end tho, especially in this weather.
Air filter is straight forward, spark plugs are a pain in the ***, pollen filter is not hard.
What else is there???
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
MightyArsenal
Wheels, Tyres & Brakes
6
25 September 2015 08:31 PM