Got a question

Drove the car 161 miles yesterday and was totally faultless it's a w reg uk turbo2000 and then this morning let it warm up didn't drive hard and check engine light came on solid for a few seconds then went off

When I arrived were I was going let the car idle for a minute stopped all fine still drove the same may I add then when I started it just it came on again solid again then went off after a few seconds

Any ideas ?

 

Have you read the error codes?

 

Don't know how to mate only got car yesterday what do I do ?

 

Here you go mate..
http://www.scoobypedia.co.uk/index.p...eadingECUCodes

Follow the Classic guide

 

Only time I had a check engine light come on and off it was the maf sensor.It seemed to come on going up hills or on long drives when the engine is under load.Do you have an induction kit fitted?

 

I've done it and its saying code 22 ?

Anyone know what this is please all help appreciated

 

The link posted by Doobs also has a link to to the error codes which in this case is the knock sensor

https://www.scoobynet.com/general-te...code-22-a.html read Splitpins post

 

Curious to hear this myself.

Mine comes on intermittently?

It's a 2002 bug WRX. Mafless, an fully mapped up. It's comes on a part throttle, at a certain position on the pedal, or at WOT.

An every once in a while, hits fuel cut? Car drives faultless all the time, just the intermittent cel?

 

Knock sensor is a common code.. First thing I would try is make sure the sensor is connected correctly, clear the codes and see if it comes back. If it does appear again then a new / 2nd hand sensor should sort it out.

 

scoobaru mad speak to the person who mapped your car is always the best starting point.

 

I think mine did this at one point. The knock sensor was cracked. On the classic, it is located behind the intake manifold.

 

Make sure there is nothing on top of the engine, rattling round. The engine may think it is knock. Or you could be getting knock?

 

If its the knock sensor get it checked asap. On my old car the CEL would flicker sometimes on short journeys and got worse after a week or 2, then bang the bottom end went.

This is why I said that if the seller was telling you its remapped and its not been you could have a ticking timebomb and a £500 bill coming up.

Change the knock sensor then get the car checked by a reputable tuner off here so you know its running correctly.

 

its 100% not remapped i know this now there is no way it is

it seems to have stopped its only done it twice but ill keep an eye on it its going in to the garage next week to get checked over

 

I "kept my eye on it" for a while, then my engine when bang. The knock sensor is there for a reason and I wish I'd paid the £10 and replaced it instead of a £900 bill, but its your choice.

 

its getting replaced the 7th i wont be waiting belive me

 

How does replacing a sensor prevent the engine going bang?...

 

The knock sensor is there to detect engine knock so the ecu can make corrections (so I was told). If the sensor is faulty the engine will be running without the ecu making adjustments so there could be det.

The sensor is there for a reason, if it wasnt needed they wouldnt have fitted one. This is why theres a big sign on the dashboard that says CHECK ENGINE. Its a £10 part, a plug and 1 bolt to change it, if you can give me a justified reason not to change it I'd love to hear it.

 

I'm not saying don't change it...but if it's detecting knock then it's doing it's job surely?...If it's changed and throwing up the same code then perhaps the problem is indeed with the fuel mapping...it's hardly a big sign is it?...

 

He's got a code 22, have you read the rest of this thread?

Actually, sod it, don't replace the £10 sensor coz reef67 says it will be ok. FML

 

Lighten up!...Blimey why don't you go for a run or something, you know let off steam...enjoy the sunshine, tell you what I'm off to the Donington classic festival, that's up your way, why don't we meet up you sound like a fun person to hang out with?...

 

Sorry, I'm not into "hooking up" with other men off the internet, when clearly you are.

 

I'd replace the knock sensor and see how it runs mate. Knock sensors usually don't fail outright, they will misread and send conflicting signals to the ECU, causing it to advance and retard the timing randomly.
Unfortunately the knock sensor is not £10 as someone mentioned, they are around £70 new.

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-Black-...item5aefc4eaa4

 

Thanks for all the help everyone the knock sensor is being replaced and I will see how it goes will I be ok driving it and sorry cot causing an uproar it was never my intention

 

That's a cheap Chinese knock off. That'll last a month if at all.
OEM Subaru knock sensors are around £70 like I said.

 

ive got a few coming from a east sussex subaru spares as ive bought a whole load of parts from him

 

So that if there is a problem, with knock. You will know and can start the elimination process, all over again

 

Never your fault Alan, glad to hear you're sorting it just try and drive off boost til its done. You're doing the right thing by asking questions rather than getting big bills and if you're new to the world of Scoobies it can be a learning process.

Sounds like she's in good hands, I'm just a bit peeved for you that it sounds like the seller knew of various issues and was glad to get rid. Clutch, sensor etc isnt cheap.

Consider a lightened flywheel if you're having the clutch done, makes a nice difference

 

in a u.k impreza i had the o2 sensor (lamda) was faulty and caused the cell on mine to do what your describing.

i let it go till next m.o.t !! but did wonder why it was using more fuel! duh: