brake discs etc arrived
can anyone tell me the procedure and toold needed to fit my new drilled and grooved discs that arrived today with new pads to a my99 uk turbo its the 295mm disc. Just need to know if i can do it myself easily enough or have to pay a mechanic. really dont want to have to if i can help it as im quite handy with a spanner just never done discs and pads before on a scoobie........any advice would be great or even a guide from somewhere would be brill too
Its really very simple mate.
Whip the wheel off, unbolt the caliper, remove caliper, pull disc off, put new disc on, swap the pads, bolt caliper back on, bolt wheel back on, drive it steady for a few miles.
You may need to squeeze the piston in a touch to get the new pads in and fit over the disc, just use a pair of grips.
Tools.
Grips, wd40, 14mm spanner/socket set, wheel brace, hammer (old disc might need a whack), tea.
Whip the wheel off, unbolt the caliper, remove caliper, pull disc off, put new disc on, swap the pads, bolt caliper back on, bolt wheel back on, drive it steady for a few miles.
You may need to squeeze the piston in a touch to get the new pads in and fit over the disc, just use a pair of grips.
Tools.
Grips, wd40, 14mm spanner/socket set, wheel brace, hammer (old disc might need a whack), tea.
Its really very simple mate.
Whip the wheel off, unbolt the caliper, remove caliper, pull disc off, put new disc on, swap the pads, bolt caliper back on, bolt wheel back on, drive it steady for a few miles.
You may need to squeeze the piston in a touch to get the new pads in and fit over the disc, just use a pair of grips.
Tools.
Grips, wd40, 14mm spanner/socket set, wheel brace, hammer (old disc might need a whack), tea.
Whip the wheel off, unbolt the caliper, remove caliper, pull disc off, put new disc on, swap the pads, bolt caliper back on, bolt wheel back on, drive it steady for a few miles.
You may need to squeeze the piston in a touch to get the new pads in and fit over the disc, just use a pair of grips.
Tools.
Grips, wd40, 14mm spanner/socket set, wheel brace, hammer (old disc might need a whack), tea.
A jack
And all important axle stands
Wire brush all bolts before removal
Wire brush mating surfaces ie the hub face
Clean new disc with brake cleaner
Apply relevant lube to back plate of the pad cera tec is brilliant
You can also use this on the hub part that the wheels sits on
Make sure all pistons are moving ie not seized
It's the little things that make the difference take your time make sure everything is clean before you fit the new bits and then bed them in if your unsure on the procedure theres a good guide on stoptechs website I believe.
Dave
Won't need bleeding chap.
I tend to spray wd in piston by lifting the rubber up and then work the piston in and out a few times. So they dont seize. Wether thats a good thing of doing or not. My rear pads have unever were and one side has worn out
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OP, just found this. May be of some use to you.
https://www.scoobynet.com/technical-...sc-4-pots.html
https://www.scoobynet.com/technical-...sc-4-pots.html
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From: Somewhere in Kent, sniffing some V-Power
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 15,029
Likes: 0
From: Somewhere in Kent, sniffing some V-Power
Just be careful, if you have to push the pistons in a long way because the new pads are obviously much thicker than the originals, the displaced fluid has to go somewhere. Remove the reservoir cap and remove some fluid if the level increases too much.
Uncontrolled brake fluid squirting around the engine bay can make quite a mess.
Uncontrolled brake fluid squirting around the engine bay can make quite a mess.
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