brake discs etc arrived
can anyone tell me the procedure and toold needed to fit my new drilled and grooved discs that arrived today with new pads to a my99 uk turbo its the 295mm disc. Just need to know if i can do it myself easily enough or have to pay a mechanic. really dont want to have to if i can help it as im quite handy with a spanner just never done discs and pads before on a scoobie........any advice would be great or even a guide from somewhere would be brill too;)
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Its really very simple mate.
Whip the wheel off, unbolt the caliper, remove caliper, pull disc off, put new disc on, swap the pads, bolt caliper back on, bolt wheel back on, drive it steady for a few miles. You may need to squeeze the piston in a touch to get the new pads in and fit over the disc, just use a pair of grips. Tools. Grips, wd40, 14mm spanner/socket set, wheel brace, hammer (old disc might need a whack), tea. |
ok cheers mate dont know where piston is located to release it ........but i havesome mole grips . will the brakes need bleeding or any of that aggro????
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Originally Posted by MattyB1983
(Post 11037809)
Its really very simple mate.
Whip the wheel off, unbolt the caliper, remove caliper, pull disc off, put new disc on, swap the pads, bolt caliper back on, bolt wheel back on, drive it steady for a few miles. You may need to squeeze the piston in a touch to get the new pads in and fit over the disc, just use a pair of grips. Tools. Grips, wd40, 14mm spanner/socket set, wheel brace, hammer (old disc might need a whack), tea. A jack And all important axle stands Wire brush all bolts before removal Wire brush mating surfaces ie the hub face Clean new disc with brake cleaner Apply relevant lube to back plate of the pad cera tec is brilliant You can also use this on the hub part that the wheels sits on Make sure all pistons are moving ie not seized It's the little things that make the difference take your time make sure everything is clean before you fit the new bits and then bed them in if your unsure on the procedure theres a good guide on stoptechs website I believe. Dave |
Originally Posted by kezwaldo
(Post 11037817)
ok cheers mate dont know where piston is located to release it ........but i havesome mole grips . will the brakes need bleeding or any of that aggro????
Won't need bleeding chap. |
I tend to spray wd in piston by lifting the rubber up and then work the piston in and out a few times. So they dont seize. Wether thats a good thing of doing or not. My rear pads have unever were and one side has worn out
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Originally Posted by MattyB1983
(Post 11037837)
The pistons in the caliper. They might just need sqeezing down a touch to allow for the thickness of the new pads.
Won't need bleeding chap. |
Originally Posted by wrx271
(Post 11038262)
great advice with new brakes :confused:
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OP, just found this. May be of some use to you.
https://www.scoobynet.com/technical-...sc-4-pots.html |
Originally Posted by kezwaldo
(Post 11037817)
ok cheers mate dont know where piston is located to release it ........but i havesome mole grips . will the brakes need bleeding or any of that aggro????
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Originally Posted by urban
(Post 11038396)
The fact that you're asking how to do it, then write this, suggests you should really take the car to someone that knows what they're doing :)
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Originally Posted by wrx271
(Post 11038262)
great advice with new brakes :confused:
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Just be careful, if you have to push the pistons in a long way because the new pads are obviously much thicker than the originals, the displaced fluid has to go somewhere. Remove the reservoir cap and remove some fluid if the level increases too much.
Uncontrolled brake fluid squirting around the engine bay can make quite a mess. |
Originally Posted by Gear Head
(Post 11038490)
Exactly what I was thinking! :eek2:
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