chocolate_o_brian

iTrader: (22)

Apologies if this covers old ground but I'm looking for a definitive answer on what's best for my car.

As I've decided to save and repair the rear arches/touch up other areas of body work, I want to try the underside too. It's not in great shape but I'd like to think some elbow grease and a wire brush may work!

The car in question is my beloved MY99 UK wagon. She's been mechanically looked after well but I hazard the previous owners neglected the bodywork/underneath a little.

I've looked on here and I wish to either Waxoyl or Underseal underneath. I've never attempted this before so I have a few questions:

1. Ok, which is best and preferable? Seen both on eBay in cans for spraying
2. Is it an easy/intermediate/hard DIY job jacked up on axle stands?
3. Required preparation? Good wire brush then apply or is a degreaser needed/jet wash etc.?
4. How much would I require?
5. Where to apply? Everywhere at a guess.

If I'm going to do it, I'll do it right so my apologies again if questions above seem stupid.

Thanks guys,

Andy

maydew

iTrader: (9)

dinitrol or waxoyl ,

best doing it after good dry period with warm weather.

i also hammerite the rear arches on the inside about 2-3" up as i like to wash this area regular and with the hammerite in this area nothin seems to stick to it now.

hedgecutter

iTrader: (5)

plus 1 for dry, warm weather. Steam it off and let it dry for 24hrs

gpssti4

iTrader: (6)

Make sure that you buy one that can creep into cracks and crevices. Also, self healing. I did mine on a mates ramp a few years ago and took an our or so and another thing you'll need is the safety equipment - overalls from Poundland and a set of goggles.

AlanPPP

iTrader: (2)

As above I'd only tackle this in dry weather and leave overnight to dry. Get some wire brush drill attachments as well as a brush.

Also the problem you will have is if the arches are rusty it will be inside the seams which connect to the bodywork so it's probably better going back to bear bones there was a thread on here a whole ago with a lad from a bodyshop doing the job and it's quite extensive! I'll try and dig it out....

chocolate_o_brian

iTrader: (22)

That's why I work at a steelworks

Thanks so far chaps. I take it a wire brush and hose down is no good then? I haven't got access to a steamer and will be going this on my back under the car.

Osimabu

iTrader: (2)

www.bilthamber.com

Unless you want to just do a temporary job of course, in which case Waxoyl will be perfect....

Iain250

iTrader: (1)

Good on you M8 for thinking about this -im just about finished this job - i took all the subframes diffs etc out - mines was like yours well cared for etc but under there is a horror show - and its a rough old dirty job - my petrol filler pipe was gone etc - deffo get at it but expect a few frights along the way !

https://www.scoobynet.com/955621-hel...l#post10951906

The Pink Ninja

iTrader: (23)

Is that the Dynax? Which one did you use, The S50 or the UB/UC?

chocolate_o_brian

iTrader: (22)

Can I ask why Waxoyl is only a temporary solution? Is that what the professionals say and do they use the above products?

I'm at a crossroads with the car. I have looked after it and serviced her etc. but she's now 13-14 years old and I was told at a recent trip to Scoobyclinic (rusted fuel filler) that the underside needs attention. A bit of welding was done for the last MOT and I hazard a bit is required come the next one. If I get on top of this, clean the underside and sort the arches, I'll have the car for a couple more years. But my thinking is I'll only throw a sensible amount at it before I cut my losses. The underside seems a common sense approach. Seal it and clean up/hammerite what I can.

Iain250

iTrader: (1)

Yip i think a lot of us are getting to this point - if you do this properly now you will add another 10 years to her , classics are almost just that - classics and need to be treated as you would an say an mg or a 70s escort - ive decided to leave the cosmetics (arches ,paint,wheels etc) till next year and spend what i have on the underneath - fingers crossed it works.
Have a look at this - ok its not the complete picture but its a good guide as corrosion and breakers take their toll - i make it 2200 gone in 3 years

http://www.howmanyleft.co.uk/vehicle...turbo_2000_awd

iain.

Osimabu

iTrader: (2)

In answer to the question as to which one of the BH products, I use the Dynax S50 for protection of hidden areas such as box sections and parts that aren't going to be blasted by water from the tyres, and the UB for more exposed areas.

I have also used underseal with Waxoyl (I forget the exact name of the product but it's a Hammerite one I think) for the wheel arches and under the sills in the past, and it's not bad.

As to why Waxoyl itself is a temporary solution, I've found it goes hard with time, then cracks and lets the water in behind it. It also has very little ability, despite its advertising, to leech between panels, and it needs a solvent (usually white spirit) to thin it down enough to get it to spray. Once the solvent has evaporated, it soon becomes ineffective.

None of this applies to the Bilt Hamber range, and I've used a lot of both on my own cars over the years which is why I'm so fervent about it.

From my personal experience of it, Waxoyl is a 1960s product and simply can't compete with the modern alternatives. Many car magazine comparison tests over the last few years agree with this too. I now prefer BH stuff, but there are other firms making some good products too.

Waxoyl has its loyal followers, but I'm certain if they tried some BH stuff, they'd never go back.

And no, I'm not in any way connected to BH or any other firm, merely a user of their products.

addi monster

iTrader: (6)

By the sounds of the amount of rot it needs re shelling or binning and buy a new one.

chocolate_o_brian

iTrader: (22)

Thanks for the explanation. Would you say the BH stuff is easily applied, andxaftercwhat perpetration underneath?

So it's now a three way choice of Waxoyl, Underseal and the Bilt Hamber products.

Worlasshasansti

Not got too much to add to this but I will say we done my brothers Porsche with waxoyl and the spray attachment and all we did was follow the instructions and it worked fine we just put the tin in a bucket of hot water and it sprayed on fine.

I was told a while ago not to use the black stuff which sets like a rubber coating as this can trap water and make the car rot from inside the coating

Mick

The Pink Ninja

iTrader: (23)

I did mine mid summer as the arches etc... were very open to the elements but being a JDM import they tend to lack this sort of stuff etc... Thought i`d give it a quick go to get it through the winter, I used the hammerite version i think, A couple of befores and afters, Well worth doing and not an expensive job either.

chopperman

There all temporary jobs. You should re-under-seal every 2-3 years for best results regardless of what make of product your using. Better late than never but its best to under-seal when the car is new or young then re do every 3 years. You say Waxoil is a 1970's product?? So your saying it has not changed over these 40 odd years?? I have not personally found any issue with waxoil seeping into the knooks and crannies like you report. If it thin enough to spray out of an aerosol then it should be thin enough to get into most places.

cobra_mark

If not add white spirit if using a pump sprayer. Waxoil is the best in my opinion, used it on all my decent cars, AC cobra to Skylines and now the Impreza, especially with subframe rust issues and the recalls of late.

quattroowner

iTrader: (5)

Poir 15 is by far the best stuff i have used.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Black-POR-...item5893f36ca5

Expensive stuff and uv sensitive. However if you stonechip or paint over it for cosmetic and further protection. Applied to a car 4 years ago, used as a daily driver. Just needed new stonechip as you could see the black underneath. All good and well protected

For subframes and suspension components, rybbed down, several layters of primer then paint. Or powdercoating

Osimabu

iTrader: (2)

Try some Dynax S50 if you've only ever used Waxoyl, then decide if you still like it. But if you haven't tried both, you're simply not in a position to compare them.

I've used both and I used to think Waxoyl was good, but since I tried the BH stuff about six years ago, I'd never go back to it.

As to Waxoyl being a 1960s product, 'Waxoyling' your car is a bit like 'Hoovering' your carpet. You still do it today, but you almost certainly do the 'Hoovering' using a Dyson, and for good reason. The newer product is simply better.

I'll shut up about it now as I'm going on too much!

The Rig

iTrader: (13)

Been using this on my classic since i bought it 8 yrs ago, i apply it every 6 mths and am now only just getting a small bit of rust, but its not internal rust, its external

Osimabu

iTrader: (2)

That's the underseal I've used that I couldn't remember the name of. I still rate it.

The Pink Ninja

iTrader: (23)

Thats the same one i used in the pics above but i used the large spray can and when you have done half of the car and it blocks the nozzel go back to halfords and demand another because it its still half full and wont come out of the can and get a new full one