WRX Tunning
#1
WRX Tunning
Hi all
I was just wondering on what bhp a WRX could handle on standard internals? and what modifications could you advice me of keeping the car on standard internals, but upgrading the externals, like induction kit, turbo, injectors, fuel pump etc..... sorry if i sound dumb, lol as im in the process of learning,
thanx in advance
I was just wondering on what bhp a WRX could handle on standard internals? and what modifications could you advice me of keeping the car on standard internals, but upgrading the externals, like induction kit, turbo, injectors, fuel pump etc..... sorry if i sound dumb, lol as im in the process of learning,
thanx in advance
#2
Scooby Regular
Before chasing power, maximise the potential the car already has. You have a very fast and powerful car already, and making sure that power can be used fully and in safety is better and cheaper than chasing massive power figures to brag about on here or in the pub. A few hundred spent on ARB's and related alignment parts allied with a good geometry set-up can make a car massively faster. Consider springs, dampers, or even a quality coilover system such as the BC's to take it further. As I said on your other thread, don't underestimate the performance benefit of driver training. When I did some the leap in my on-road speed was massive, and would have cost thousands to try and achieve with tuning products. The fact it made me safer too was a worthy point, but also the fact that it is a mod I will carry with me for life into every car I ever drive. In 7 years or so on this forum I have met very few people whom can extract the best from these cars, but a great many who can throw endless money at chasing bragging rights whilst increasing their danger to themselves and others as their inability gets overwhelmed by the cars ever increasing potential.
#3
Supporting Member
iTrader: (28)
Before chasing power, maximise the potential the car already has. You have a very fast and powerful car already, and making sure that power can be used fully and in safety is better and cheaper than chasing massive power figures to brag about on here or in the pub. A few hundred spent on ARB's and related alignment parts allied with a good geometry set-up can make a car massively faster. Consider springs, dampers, or even a quality coilover system such as the BC's to take it further. As I said on your other thread, don't underestimate the performance benefit of driver training. When I did some the leap in my on-road speed was massive, and would have cost thousands to try and achieve with tuning products. The fact it made me safer too was a worthy point, but also the fact that it is a mod I will carry with me for life into every car I ever drive. In 7 years or so on this forum I have met very few people whom can extract the best from these cars, but a great many who can throw endless money at chasing bragging rights whilst increasing their danger to themselves and others as their inability gets overwhelmed by the cars ever increasing potential.
Corradoboy, where would you recommend for driver training and how much did it set you back if you don't mind me asking - you've interested me
#4
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And once you've done all that, the gearbox will become fragile after about 350bhp, but some sensible driving can overcome that, and the internals will be safe up to about 390-400BHP.
At least that is the case for newage cars, if it's a classic I'm not 100% sure if they are as strong or not.
At least that is the case for newage cars, if it's a classic I'm not 100% sure if they are as strong or not.
#5
Scooby Regular
I have done various training sessions over the years. On track I have been taught by Howard Patterson, a professional rally driver for over 35 years, and owner of Rallydrive. On the road I was taught Roadcraft and pursuit driving from a (now ex) Police officer. This was the single biggest enhancement to my potential I have ever had, and saw me able to embarrass much more powerful and highly modified cars through ability rather than power or expenditure. You can buy books and teach yourself Roadcraft, but if you know any Class 1 Police drivers who are prepared to give you some time it is truly eye-opening how fast those guys can go with their training and employing the techniques involved, whilst increasing safety.
#6
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I had 361/322 and the bottom end let go on 95k miles
agree with above. i did arb,s and droplinks with lowering springs(coilovers to expensive at time) plus bigger brakes . It transforms driving experience!
BUT if you want power first. i'd go for a full decat exhaust, harvey smith ported headers and up pipe, sti pink injectors, sti top mount intercooler or front mount, TD05 18g turbo and walbro 255 fuel pump plus remap. all in if you get second hand about 2k, then your be hitting 350+ figures
remember to save for a new engine though as it will go bang eventually if the gearbox doesnt go first. mine blew up in jan and my new engine(tis a good engine ) is only just going in
good luck and happy modding
agree with above. i did arb,s and droplinks with lowering springs(coilovers to expensive at time) plus bigger brakes . It transforms driving experience!
BUT if you want power first. i'd go for a full decat exhaust, harvey smith ported headers and up pipe, sti pink injectors, sti top mount intercooler or front mount, TD05 18g turbo and walbro 255 fuel pump plus remap. all in if you get second hand about 2k, then your be hitting 350+ figures
remember to save for a new engine though as it will go bang eventually if the gearbox doesnt go first. mine blew up in jan and my new engine(tis a good engine ) is only just going in
good luck and happy modding
#7
thank u all for your replies, please dont take me the wrong way, i wasnt asking about modding so i cant start bragging lol, im just trying to build up general knowledge really, n i do totally agree with all of you's as its not always about the car, and it is about the driver. i dont drive my car like a mad man anyway, lol i love it 2 much to see it get hurt if you get what i mean. but at the moment i just want to do basic mods lol or should i say the CHEAPEST MODS POSSIBLE as im on a tight budget at the moment, but hey aint we all, unless u got money pouring outa ya **** lol
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#9
Scooby Regular
Biggest mod for least outlay, a Whitleine (or similar) rear anti-roll bar. If you drive smooth, go for a 24mm, if like most normal folk you drive erratically with lots of braking, go 22mm. £100-150, add another £30 for some solid drop-links and go enjoy the benefit.
#10
Decent discs, pads, braided hoses, DOT 5.1 Around £700
Uprated anti roll bar and solid droplinks £270
Milltek Decat and full system, Walbro fuel pump & remap £1500
All prices based on what I recently paid, fitted.
Not massive power, but very useable, particularly in the mid range. Bob
Uprated anti roll bar and solid droplinks £270
Milltek Decat and full system, Walbro fuel pump & remap £1500
All prices based on what I recently paid, fitted.
Not massive power, but very useable, particularly in the mid range. Bob
#11
Scooby Regular
OE discs are good enough - £45
Fluid - £10
Lines - £50
Pads - £90-140
DIY
R-ARB - £145 max
Links (steel) - £50
DIY
I'd probably pay someone for the under bonnet stuff though.
Fluid - £10
Lines - £50
Pads - £90-140
DIY
R-ARB - £145 max
Links (steel) - £50
DIY
I'd probably pay someone for the under bonnet stuff though.
#12
I will definatly get some pictures up, i have a Wagon, Version 2, import =) whats the best way to post pics??? can i upload them directly on to here, or shall i use photo bucket?
#13
Scooby Regular
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