Front end squirm under braking.
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Front end squirm under braking.
On a standard bugeye wagon, when braking it seems to squirm a little at the front end, when still in a straight line.
It doesn't feel dangerous, but it does mean I lack a bit of confidence entering a bend - it just feels a little unpredictable as if it's losing grip at the front.
Is this standard, and can it be solved by upgrading droplinks/bushes etc? Or is it the tyres, it's on the standard Poteza REO50's which have plenty of tread on them.
It doesn't feel dangerous, but it does mean I lack a bit of confidence entering a bend - it just feels a little unpredictable as if it's losing grip at the front.
Is this standard, and can it be solved by upgrading droplinks/bushes etc? Or is it the tyres, it's on the standard Poteza REO50's which have plenty of tread on them.
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When I hard brake the car seems to Endo and the back seems start doing what it wants feels very uncomfortable, I've checked all my brake efficiency's and they are fine think it is Biased a Great deal to the front. think a harder spring rate on the front would help.
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RE050 aren't particularly confidence inspiring, but on a car of that age I'd be checking everything under the front arches, links, bushes, tie-rods, top-mounts etc. Also worth checking your tyre pressures !
As an aside, you might want to research Roadcraft driving which when implemented will drastically reduce your reliance on the brakes and give a smoother, more balanced driving style whilst significantly increasing overall speed, especially cornering speeds. It's more sympathetic to the car and safer for you too.
As an aside, you might want to research Roadcraft driving which when implemented will drastically reduce your reliance on the brakes and give a smoother, more balanced driving style whilst significantly increasing overall speed, especially cornering speeds. It's more sympathetic to the car and safer for you too.
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Geometry was done at a Subaru dealer a few years ago, but I was thinking about getting it done again - car pulls a little to the left as well. I know Powerstation are the gods but are a bit far away, heard good things about Mocom, but is there anywhere else near me? SE London/Kent.
The tyres are in good nick, I was also thinking about front and rear droplinks, although I have read that the front bushes aren't great either.
The tyres are in good nick, I was also thinking about front and rear droplinks, although I have read that the front bushes aren't great either.
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#9
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The essential first mod to improve the handling of any Scoob is to replace the plastic OE rear droplinks and fit an uprated (usually Whiteline 22mm adjustable) rear ARB. This will reduce understeer by removing a lot of rear body roll, allowing the front tyres to maintain a better alignment with the road. Front droplinks can be done too, although not as important. Decide carefully before fitting an uprated front ARB however, as by limiting all roll can make the car twitchy as you push the limits further. Improving your driving style to stop throwing the cars weight around will help you mostly though, and it can be done free, and the lessons learnt will go with you into every car you ever drive, whilst maybe keeping you alive.
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Agree with a lot of the comments above, my driving could certainly improve and I'm aware of the benefits of the droplinks and rear ARB.
I still think there is an issue with the front end though, surely it shouldn't feel unsettled just braking in a straight line? It feels like the wheel squirms in my hands a bit. Sounds like geometry is the place to start?
I still think there is an issue with the front end though, surely it shouldn't feel unsettled just braking in a straight line? It feels like the wheel squirms in my hands a bit. Sounds like geometry is the place to start?
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The essential first mod to improve the handling of any Scoob is to replace the plastic OE rear droplinks and fit an uprated (usually Whiteline 22mm adjustable) rear ARB. This will reduce understeer by removing a lot of rear body roll, allowing the front tyres to maintain a better alignment with the road. Front droplinks can be done too, although not as important. Decide carefully before fitting an uprated front ARB however, as by limiting all roll can make the car twitchy as you push the limits further. Improving your driving style to stop throwing the cars weight around will help you mostly though, and it can be done free, and the lessons learnt will go with you into every car you ever drive, whilst maybe keeping you alive.
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Sounds like its just the Bias of the front Brakes to me, as if you've uprated them and it worse it has to be maybe it is down to driving style and we're all suffering from a lead right foot??
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Drop links won't help it's either tired bushes or a heavy handed approach to cornering...
Drop links only do any work when the car is cornering and body roll occurs. Under braking both sides are almost equally loaded, so no effect.
IMHO
DunxC
P.S. Agree it could be the geometry allowing toe-out under braking, best cure is poly bushes, or an expert set-up.
Drop links only do any work when the car is cornering and body roll occurs. Under braking both sides are almost equally loaded, so no effect.
IMHO
DunxC
P.S. Agree it could be the geometry allowing toe-out under braking, best cure is poly bushes, or an expert set-up.
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Drop links won't help it's either tired bushes or a heavy handed approach to cornering...
Drop links only do any work when the car is cornering and body roll occurs. Under braking both sides are almost equally loaded, so no effect.
IMHO
DunxC
P.S. Agree it could be the geometry allowing toe-out under braking, best cure is poly bushes, or an expert set-up.
Drop links only do any work when the car is cornering and body roll occurs. Under braking both sides are almost equally loaded, so no effect.
IMHO
DunxC
P.S. Agree it could be the geometry allowing toe-out under braking, best cure is poly bushes, or an expert set-up.
all the weight at the front and rear as very little maybe a little harder dampening rate on the front and hard front springs.
#22
Hi Ewan & greetings from the knackered dads of SE London Association
Not the best tyres IMHO and probably the geometry would make a big difference.
I've not once had a decent set up done by mainstream dealers - their delivery tolerances, for instance, allow front suspension set up to be deemed acceptable in a range from positive to negative camber. My P1 was negative on one side and positive on the other after one such "setting up".... to the extent that I could see it as soon as I walked up.
As you know, I haven't been to Mocom yet, but I have heard good things about their set up. Elite Tyres over in Dagenham also has a pretty good reputation, but Powerstation in Tewkesbury, Glos seem to be the most respected and practised on Scoobies. Can be done in a day so it's a good excuse to have a sneaky driving day. Mutant Matt Collier has had experience of them and speaks highly.
Bug eyes usually don't need it but the sort of thing you're describing sounds a bit like bumpsteer too.
See you round
John
Not the best tyres IMHO and probably the geometry would make a big difference.
I've not once had a decent set up done by mainstream dealers - their delivery tolerances, for instance, allow front suspension set up to be deemed acceptable in a range from positive to negative camber. My P1 was negative on one side and positive on the other after one such "setting up".... to the extent that I could see it as soon as I walked up.
As you know, I haven't been to Mocom yet, but I have heard good things about their set up. Elite Tyres over in Dagenham also has a pretty good reputation, but Powerstation in Tewkesbury, Glos seem to be the most respected and practised on Scoobies. Can be done in a day so it's a good excuse to have a sneaky driving day. Mutant Matt Collier has had experience of them and speaks highly.
Bug eyes usually don't need it but the sort of thing you're describing sounds a bit like bumpsteer too.
See you round
John
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On a standard bugeye wagon, when braking it seems to squirm a little at the front end, when still in a straight line.
It doesn't feel dangerous, but it does mean I lack a bit of confidence entering a bend - it just feels a little unpredictable as if it's losing grip at the front.
Is this standard, and can it be solved by upgrading droplinks/bushes etc? Or is it the tyres, it's on the standard Poteza REO50's which have plenty of tread on them.
It doesn't feel dangerous, but it does mean I lack a bit of confidence entering a bend - it just feels a little unpredictable as if it's losing grip at the front.
Is this standard, and can it be solved by upgrading droplinks/bushes etc? Or is it the tyres, it's on the standard Poteza REO50's which have plenty of tread on them.
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Hi Ewan & greetings from the knackered dads of SE London Association
Not the best tyres IMHO and probably the geometry would make a big difference.
I've not once had a decent set up done by mainstream dealers - their delivery tolerances, for instance, allow front suspension set up to be deemed acceptable in a range from positive to negative camber. My P1 was negative on one side and positive on the other after one such "setting up".... to the extent that I could see it as soon as I walked up.
As you know, I haven't been to Mocom yet, but I have heard good things about their set up. Elite Tyres over in Dagenham also has a pretty good reputation, but Powerstation in Tewkesbury, Glos seem to be the most respected and practised on Scoobies. Can be done in a day so it's a good excuse to have a sneaky driving day. Mutant Matt Collier has had experience of them and speaks highly.
Bug eyes usually don't need it but the sort of thing you're describing sounds a bit like bumpsteer too.
See you round
John
Not the best tyres IMHO and probably the geometry would make a big difference.
I've not once had a decent set up done by mainstream dealers - their delivery tolerances, for instance, allow front suspension set up to be deemed acceptable in a range from positive to negative camber. My P1 was negative on one side and positive on the other after one such "setting up".... to the extent that I could see it as soon as I walked up.
As you know, I haven't been to Mocom yet, but I have heard good things about their set up. Elite Tyres over in Dagenham also has a pretty good reputation, but Powerstation in Tewkesbury, Glos seem to be the most respected and practised on Scoobies. Can be done in a day so it's a good excuse to have a sneaky driving day. Mutant Matt Collier has had experience of them and speaks highly.
Bug eyes usually don't need it but the sort of thing you're describing sounds a bit like bumpsteer too.
See you round
John
All roads seem to point to Powerstation at the moment, although I think I'll let Mr. Collier have a drive and see what he thinks when I see him in June. I'm also going to see Andy Walsh at North Weald for some driver instruction that day so I'll get a few opinions.
I'd be interested to know how you get on over at Mocom if you go, or from anyone else who has had alignment done there.
Vindaloo, yes, it does seem to tramline a wee bit - nothing too serious though. I've just been out for a test and to be honest, the actual problem doesn't feel really bad, just something I'm sure I can get rid of which will improve the feel of the car.
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