WHICH OIL ??
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17 October 2006, 05:57 PM
#9
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Originally Posted by chrispurvis100
And what is that based on??
When the car was driven hard it would vapourise at an incredible rate and fill up my catch tank - 0.5l in a mornings track day.
With closed circuit breathers that oil vapour would be going straight back into the inlet mucking up your fuel mixture and potentially causing det.
With Motul I got little or no vapourisation even after driving it hard on track.
Why, what is your judgement based on?
Rannoch
17 October 2006, 07:48 PM
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Tried all the usual brands, Mobil, Castrol etc Same problem with filing up catch can
Saw the light and changed over to Redline, may have been 15/50. Great stuff never had to add a drop and extended changover to 10000 kays and it still looked like new.
Past six months have tried a German oil Liqui Moly 10/60. Awesome oil and with no other changes have seen oil temps drop by 10 degrees over previous.
Saw the light and changed over to Redline, may have been 15/50. Great stuff never had to add a drop and extended changover to 10000 kays and it still looked like new.
Past six months have tried a German oil Liqui Moly 10/60. Awesome oil and with no other changes have seen oil temps drop by 10 degrees over previous.
18 October 2006, 08:44 AM
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Originally Posted by Rannoch
Have you tasted it on your porage? You can stir it in wi yer spirtle 
Honey is better, but I like the sentiment. (A true Scotsman would have only salt and boiled water in his porridge, but that's mingin' !!)
18 October 2006, 09:37 AM
#19
Motul chrono 10w-40. (if you don't mind paying 70quid for it) unless you're going on the track, then 15w-50.
heavyer oils are probably not the best for daily drivers that do short runs. Mine sounded like a dog in the mornings on 10w-60, nice and smooth on 10w-40.
I use silkolene 10w-40 but i've heard some bad things about it from trustworthy (and knowlegeble) sources. Not changed it yet to see it's condition.
What's good on the track is not nessisarily best on the road.
Dave
heavyer oils are probably not the best for daily drivers that do short runs. Mine sounded like a dog in the mornings on 10w-60, nice and smooth on 10w-40.
I use silkolene 10w-40 but i've heard some bad things about it from trustworthy (and knowlegeble) sources. Not changed it yet to see it's condition.
What's good on the track is not nessisarily best on the road.
Dave
18 October 2006, 12:19 PM
#20
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Been through all the oil thing over the years, and there's a lot of bull surrounding it. I use Fuchs (who make Silkolene) Titan Supersyn SL 5W40, bought in 25 litre drums for £86 from Euro Car Parts. Allowing for 5 1/2 oil changes per drum it works out at £15.64 for a 4.5l fill. It has all the most up to date accreditations for a modern fully synth (unlike Millers) and comes recommended by Scoobynet's own "oilman" whom also sells the stuff, but not at that price
For road use on a standard or mildly mod'd car, 5W40 will be fine. 0W is too thin in my experience. If you occasionally track or are over 350bhp then 10W40 or 15W50. Serious power and frequent trackwork will require 15W50 to 15W60.
For road use on a standard or mildly mod'd car, 5W40 will be fine. 0W is too thin in my experience. If you occasionally track or are over 350bhp then 10W40 or 15W50. Serious power and frequent trackwork will require 15W50 to 15W60.
18 October 2006, 12:32 PM
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Originally Posted by corradoboy
Been through all the oil thing over the years, and there's a lot of bull surrounding it. I use Fuchs (who make Silkolene) Titan Supersyn SL 5W40, bought in 25 litre drums for £86 from Euro Car Parts. Allowing for 5 1/2 oil changes per drum it works out at £15.64 for a 4.5l fill. It has all the most up to date accreditations for a modern fully synth (unlike Millers) and comes recommended by Scoobynet's own "oilman" whom also sells the stuff, but not at that price
For road use on a standard or mildly mod'd car, 5W40 will be fine. 0W is too thin in my experience. If you occasionally track or are over 350bhp then 10W40 or 15W50. Serious power and frequent trackwork will require 15W50 to 15W60.
For road use on a standard or mildly mod'd car, 5W40 will be fine. 0W is too thin in my experience. If you occasionally track or are over 350bhp then 10W40 or 15W50. Serious power and frequent trackwork will require 15W50 to 15W60.
What is the reason for 10w40 oils being more suitable for highly modded cars /
What's different about the oil ? (I had thought 10w was simply thicker,5w being more suitable for winter driving ?).
Cheers,
Andy
18 October 2006, 12:42 PM
#22
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The "xW" figure relates to the viscocity of the oil when cold. I find 0W too thin on Scoobs making the car sound and feel rattly at strat-up. 10W I feel is too thick for a standard or lightly mod'd car, taking too long to warm up. When I used 10W I felt that the engine didn't come on song until after more than 20 minutes driving, whereas on 5W it was good after less than 10, but not as harsh as with the thinner stuff.
The second figure is the viscocity at normal running temperature. Again, a 30 or less would be way too thin for a Scoob, but I feel 40 is just right. With increased performance usually comes increased stress and heat, therefore the move up to a 50 or even a 60 when those stresses come into play is advised as the oil thins with the extra heat.
The second figure is the viscocity at normal running temperature. Again, a 30 or less would be way too thin for a Scoob, but I feel 40 is just right. With increased performance usually comes increased stress and heat, therefore the move up to a 50 or even a 60 when those stresses come into play is advised as the oil thins with the extra heat.
19 October 2006, 12:44 PM
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Originally Posted by corradoboy
The "xW" figure relates to the viscocity of the oil when cold. I find 0W too thin on Scoobs making the car sound and feel rattly at strat-up. 10W I feel is too thick for a standard or lightly mod'd car, taking too long to warm up. When I used 10W I felt that the engine didn't come on song until after more than 20 minutes driving, whereas on 5W it was good after less than 10, but not as harsh as with the thinner stuff.
The second figure is the viscocity at normal running temperature. Again, a 30 or less would be way too thin for a Scoob, but I feel 40 is just right. With increased performance usually comes increased stress and heat, therefore the move up to a 50 or even a 60 when those stresses come into play is advised as the oil thins with the extra heat.
The second figure is the viscocity at normal running temperature. Again, a 30 or less would be way too thin for a Scoob, but I feel 40 is just right. With increased performance usually comes increased stress and heat, therefore the move up to a 50 or even a 60 when those stresses come into play is advised as the oil thins with the extra heat.
19 October 2006, 01:07 PM
#26
My dash temp gauge is at normal before the oil temp gauge has even started to register... I'm actually beggining to think it measures cabin temperature rather than anything useful
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