kenc

iTrader: (6)

HI LADS, HERES THE DEAL, GOT A 01 EU WRX ON TRADE IN HAS THE FOLLOWIG
TDO5 16G
PINK INJECTORS
ADJ PRESS REG
FMIC
WALBRO FUEL PUMP
STRAIGHT THROUGH MAGNEX SYSTEM
95 PLUS LUCAS 1.3 BAR MAP BY ANDY F
THE CAR IS SLOW OUT, IT HITS FULL 1.3 AT 4500 REVS AND THERE IS A REALLY STRANGE SOUND OUT OF FILTER WHEN IT DOES NOT NORMAL INDUCTION ROAR MORE LIKE A DIE'N ANIMAL, IT ONLY GOES TO 1.0 IN 1ST AND 2ND I THINK, BARELY BEATS 2LTR TYPR CIVIC 1/4 MILE AND HAS BEEN BEATN BY STANDAR NISSAN 180!!!!! WHATS WRONG WITH IT??? IVE BEEN TOLD THAT IT SHOULD BE 300 TO 330 BHP?????? WITH DOES MODS
THERE IS A VERY SMALL POWER TEC STEEL MESH FILTER ON IT, COULD THIS BE THE PROBLEM??? MAYBE ITS NOT ABLE TO SUCK ENUF AIR?? ANY IDEAS BAD STORYS BOUT THESE???

skyline gtr v

go back to a green filter in the oe air box

renno rannes

Cant with a Front Mount.

SamUK

iTrader: (1)

Whats up with the CAPS??? the post is really hard to read!

Butty

iTrader: (2)

You'll never get peak boost in 1st or 2nd, but 1.3 bar @ 4500 rpm is very late.
The spec is about right for the power range, but the FMIC and fuel pressure regulator aren't needed.
Ditch the bits above, go back to an STi TMIC and OEM air box with decent filter - and a remap.
What is a "95 plus lucas" map BTW?
Do you know if anyhting has been added after the Andy F remap - eg VTA dump valve? If so then it may not be suitable for the map he installed.

Nick

scoobydooooo

aww didums !! can't read big letters

SamUK

iTrader: (1)

Naaa....just can't be bothered

kenc

iTrader: (6)

sorry bout the cap letters, but maybe if you stopped using the hand pump so often you would be able to see better everything that is on the car was mapped for , would it be safe with top mount??? i have heard of guys with same turbo and fmic and they are hitting full boost a lot earlier, what rev should it be making full boost at???? its mapped for 95 oct and lucas booster which is supposed to be nearly as good as 98 optimax... could it be that air filter, it a POWERTEC... steel mesh one, looks very small and as i said it makes a really funny noise when it reaches full boost. i was wondering if these filters were only ok on standard engine with standard turbo, or if they were just extremely bad in general, i think it may not be able to flow enough air in and thats the noise, like the turbo is gasping for air , and thats why its slow to reac full 1.3 boost.. could this be possible?? hope thats better now sam uk

theotherphil

I agree that the 1.3Bar at 4500rpm is very late....I hit 1.4 bar at 3150rpm with a 16G. TBH though, I'd keep the FMIC and FPR as they add a safety net....although not strictly needed, the FMIC is far superior in every way to a TMIC. Running the same boost but having a remap after fitting my FMIC, I seemed to gain a lot in the midrange. Andy said he could run lots more advance possibly down to the cooler charge. I was previously running an uprated AvoTurbo TMIC and larger scoop as well!

SamUK

iTrader: (1)

lol....

What exhaust have you got on the car? is it s 2.5" centre ir 3"?


Not sure if this would help:
I changed my TD04 to TD05 also at the same time had a 3" exhaust system in and full boost was comming in alot later (near 3500/4000rpm). On the TD04 however i think it peaked at near 3000rpm...with a 2.5" system

scoobydooooo

FAIR ENOUGH!!

The Terminator wrx

put some v power petrol in it m8
95 ron i wouldnt wash the dishes with that

Fuzz

95 and octane booster
Just buy V-Power and done with it.
Leave the front mount on, it's better than a top mount, even if it's of no massive benefit, refitting the top mount will be a stupid move.

However, get rid of that mesh filter and go back to a normal airbox and panel filter, it'll flow well enough for over 400bhp and it wont **** the MAF either.

As for your wheezing preformance, sounds like the turbo could be in need of a bit of TLC!
Get it checked out before it wrecks your engine.

Andy

Bob Rawle

How are you going to get a std airbox to fit with the average FMIC install ?

New age maf is almost bullet proof, a good K & N based induction kit is the way to go, 400 on the air box with the std maf tube is asking a bit much.

16G should be on fiull chat by 3500, is there a leak somewhere thats slugging it ? Whatever intercooler or induction is used thats how it should be spooling.

Must have a problem relating to pipework.

Bob

Butty

iTrader: (2)

And why is an FMIC "better" than an STi IC and a stupid move at this level of output?



Nick

Fuzz

Good point !! Didn't think about the pipework but hey if they designed it right in the first place you probably could.
As Bob says then, K&N Induction...


Any decent front mount will give cooler intake temps over and above that of a top mount STi or not.
It's a safety feature if nothing else.
Removing a safety feature is a stupid move.

Andy

kenc

iTrader: (6)

i have checked the vacum piping going from compressor housing t pieced and going to actuator and boost solenoid, i even tried turning the restrictor olive around incase it flows better one way than other, but it doesnt would the lenght the vacum pipe is affect the spool up, its bit longer than standard piping on standard td04L, im farely sure that vacum pipe is not leaking, as for turbo, it is only about 2 months old from andy f so i reckon that rules that out, any way its not a sound like fins tipping housing it really is like its groaning for air, ... what are the things that will cause slow spool up???? ive noticed that if you put in 4th at low rpm and really load the turbo you get the groan and full boost around 4k revs, does any one share my theory about filter any one hear of complaints about them, as far as v power goes you must have better stuff than us in ireland, ours is 95 and contains valve cleaning additives that i heard some people say may affect the booster

kenc

iTrader: (6)

by the way lads thanks for giving your ideas and help, sorry if im bit slow replying, i dnt be at computer often.. cheers

kenc

iTrader: (6)

regards exhaust i not sure, everything was on it when i got it, i presume its prob 3"dump with 2.5 centre, think its magnex, i thought 32" only made difference after 350bhp ??????

kenc

iTrader: (6)

sorry i mean 3".... 32" b a bit big alrite

Andy.F

Ken

If you tell me whos car it was before you bought it i will check my datalogs to see what the spool up was like when it was originally mapped.
You should have full boost in 4th before 3500 on that set up.
Could the noise you refer to be an air leak ? May be worth blanking the BOV and testing again, then temporarily try a std tmic to rule out a boost leak on the fmic/pipework.

Andy

kenc

iTrader: (6)

hi andy, it was dave lewis old navy bugeye, he bought my old v6 white sti, he has put massive money into it, and you mapped it last time you were over for him, this bugeye is about 5 to 7 car lenghts slower than my old sti which only had exhaust and your map when i had it.. this might be normal and have nothing to do with it but i have noticed a strong mixture fume in car when you drive it hard and dump valve lets off... the noise is like air been sucked or as you suggested leaking at high preesure through a tight space.. i will try that dumpvalve sounds like a good idea,.. you seem to know your stuff, you must of had a subaru sometime did you???

jasonius

iTrader: (1)

interesting thread this, keep it updated with any news..

kenc

iTrader: (6)

thanks for reply Bob, i will check over all the vacum piping that goes to turbo again, to see if theres a leak.

Andy.F

An Sti6 with full decat and Tek 3 will be much quicker than a bug eye wrx on a td05 and fmic. Both will be circa 330bhp but the sti6 is much lighter and better geared for acceleration.
Still needs that boost leak/noise sorted though.

Andy

kenc

iTrader: (6)

hi Andy,
yea they dont seem to be in there with the classic, was thinking that the gearing was killing it and had thought of buying a 4dr sti box and rear dif, they are not as harsh as type r, but i think i be better just buying a classic, thre over a 100kg lighter i beleive.... did you get any where with looking up your data log? ..i may see about blanking that dumpvalve off, and or checking piping, working night shift this week so bit hard to get time.

kenc

iTrader: (6)

i think i may have found problem or at least some of it any way... the flange for dumpvalve has 2 holes in it about 4 or 5mm each and it is drawing air here on tick over and off boost and i presume leaking it on boost, gonna get them aluminium welded up tis week so fingers crossed

Shark Man

Last time I drove a scoob making a funny noise out the (cone) airfilter, the cam timing was off by a tooth on one of the cams.

Thats the last time I tell a mate how to change the cambelt himself...I ended up having to re-do it for him