burtysbugeye

Ok its time for an oil change, what is the best oil i can put in,and also what should i put in for example 10w 40 etc, the car is a MY01 Bugeye with nearly 95,000 on the clock if that make any diffrence , also need to change oil filter, but whats all this you have got to fill oil filter up with oil first and you have got to just turn the key a few times to turn the engine or it may do damage to your engine.Is that true or a load of bollocks

DonnieDarko

don't listen to PMSL ewis. thats the best advice i can give

robsw

Anything like mobile 1 or castrol fully synth for petrol turbo cars will be fine, 10/40 or 15/50 or asnywhere inbetween depending on engine wear, at 95,000 10/40 should be ok! Its not a new engine or rebuild 1st time start or anything so don't worry about turning the key without it starting!

Do prefill the filter though, its easy enougth so why not

IN THE STICKS

Have a look here http://bbs.scoobynet.co.uk/showthread.php?t=473027

corradoboy

Given the high mileage a 10W may be suitable, but I tried it in mine (45k) and found it too thick until upto temp and so switched back to 5W. 0W will be too thin. Silkolene, Motul, Millers or Mobil fully synths are all excellent. Definately prefill (prime) the filter before fitting. It may take 3-4 goes as the oil penetrates the filter material but just fill to the brim and leave 5 mins, then top up until it won't take any more. Some people disconnect the CPS (crank position sensor) for its first turn over to reduce load on the engine whilst the fresh oil is pushed around the internals, but I agree with the reckoning that the engine at idle is probably under less load than at start-up, so after topping up just start her and let her run for 5-10 minutes before switching off and letting it settle to recheck the level. If you are struggling to get a reliable reading off the dipstick, use a small piece of rubber hose to blow gently down the dipstick pipe before taking a reading as it sometimes either airlocks or wicks oil up the stick leading to false readings.

HTH.

Mo

Disconnection of the crank position sensor will prevent the engine from firing whilst allowing the oil pressure to build within the system, keep spinning with the sensor disconnected until the oil light on the dashboard goes out.

burtysbugeye

Where abouts is the crank sensor, is it easy to find

corradoboy

Under the alternator, front and centre under the bonnet. Small electrical connector block.

As I say, many people are now debating that the engine when cranking over on the starter motor for a period of time is under greater load than if just started and left to run freely on tickover. It's no great hassle to disconnect and reconnect, but is it really necessary I have done it in the past, but might not bother again.

One thing to note is that after disconnecting the CPS, the CEL (Check Engine Light) will come on. It will go out after 5 further starts unless there is really something wrong.

pslewis

These are the people who do that .............

The Crank Sensor Removal AGM:-

Losers .....

Saddos .....

Geeks .....

Virgins ......

If you look like one of those then you will need to do the 'thickhead' **** Oil Change I'm afraid .... sorry!!

If you look normal and are normal just fooookin start the thing ...... it's the MANS way!!

So? are you a geeky, sad, loser or a MAN with better things to do??

Pete

trogs109

hi all
not posted for ages an im gonna change mine inbetween services. Its a 52 bugeye with 19,000 on it. What sort do you reckon cos i know nowt.

s70rjw

iTrader: (2)

5/40 or 10/40 semi or fully synthetic. One of the advantages of FULLY synthetic is the extended drain intervals. As you're changing between scheduled changes I'd go for the semi option.

SLIGHT

If you only change your oil every 95,000 miles, you better use the good stuff.

burtysbugeye

should i use semi or fully synthetic oil

s70rjw

iTrader: (2)

Semi is fine. Full synthetic is better.Your choice.

pslewis

Semi if you change on time ................

Full if you want extended oil changes

Pete