scoob and evo oil issue
#1
scoob and evo oil issue
why is it that dealerships are putting in 10/30 fully synthetic oil in these performance cars ?
it would appear that performance garages preffere to use 10/60 10/50 fs.
ive always used 10/50 or 10/60 and not had a problem.
is there anyone changed from 10/60 to 10/30 fs and noticed a change in the cars drive ?
it would appear that performance garages preffere to use 10/60 10/50 fs.
ive always used 10/50 or 10/60 and not had a problem.
is there anyone changed from 10/60 to 10/30 fs and noticed a change in the cars drive ?
#2
Former Sponsor
iTrader: (9)
It's because the correct grade for a stock car used on the road is sae 30 or 40 and not sae 60.
The main reason for stepping up to an sae 50 or 60 would be oil temperatures.
Above 120degC an sae 50 is adviseable as it will only thin to the equivalent of an sae 40 at 100degC.
I personally don't recommend an sae 60 as it's too thick IMHO.
Here's a chart which explains what I mean.
Modern high performance engines are designed to run on an oil viscosity of 10 to 15 cSt. (But many are OK on less than 10.) 30cSt is too high at high RPM. It can lead to foaming, air entrainment and cavitation.
............Temp. for 30cSt (Deg. C).......Temp. for 15cSt.......Temp. for 10cSt
5W/40..................71...........................9 0........................117...............
10W/40................70...........................99. .......................118...............
10W/50................80...........................109 .......................130..............
10W/60................89...........................119 .......................142..............
This shows that a 5W/40 or a 10W/40 is perfectly adequate for all engines except those that run an unusually high temperatures.
Also, a thick oil can lead to trouble unless properly warmed up before high RPM is used.
Cheers
Simon
The main reason for stepping up to an sae 50 or 60 would be oil temperatures.
Above 120degC an sae 50 is adviseable as it will only thin to the equivalent of an sae 40 at 100degC.
I personally don't recommend an sae 60 as it's too thick IMHO.
Here's a chart which explains what I mean.
Modern high performance engines are designed to run on an oil viscosity of 10 to 15 cSt. (But many are OK on less than 10.) 30cSt is too high at high RPM. It can lead to foaming, air entrainment and cavitation.
............Temp. for 30cSt (Deg. C).......Temp. for 15cSt.......Temp. for 10cSt
5W/40..................71...........................9 0........................117...............
10W/40................70...........................99. .......................118...............
10W/50................80...........................109 .......................130..............
10W/60................89...........................119 .......................142..............
This shows that a 5W/40 or a 10W/40 is perfectly adequate for all engines except those that run an unusually high temperatures.
Also, a thick oil can lead to trouble unless properly warmed up before high RPM is used.
Cheers
Simon
#5
Originally Posted by Bob Rawle
Depends on the oil, seriously I have recorded a 10 degree difference in temps between a 5-40 and a 15-50 grade. Significant
bob
bob
pm if its top secret bob
#7
Former Sponsor
iTrader: (9)
I would have said generally between 90 and 100degC although I have heard of up to 120degC in some modded ones. It depends on the mods and efficiency of the oil cooler.
One of the problems with running a thick oil in a car where the oil is cooled to 70-80degC is the possibility of air entrainment at high revs which can cause engine failure.
In general the best advice is to use a thinner oil if oil temps are low as it flows better eliminating the bearings being fed slugs of air.
My chart above illustrates this well.
I would always not go thick unless you have a sound technical reason for doing so.
Cheers
Simon
One of the problems with running a thick oil in a car where the oil is cooled to 70-80degC is the possibility of air entrainment at high revs which can cause engine failure.
In general the best advice is to use a thinner oil if oil temps are low as it flows better eliminating the bearings being fed slugs of air.
My chart above illustrates this well.
I would always not go thick unless you have a sound technical reason for doing so.
Cheers
Simon
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#8
Former Sponsor
iTrader: (9)
Originally Posted by Bob Rawle
Depends on the oil, seriously I have recorded a 10 degree difference in temps between a 5-40 and a 15-50 grade. Significant
bob
bob
Cheers
Simon
#9
Moderator
iTrader: (1)
Agree, thicker oils aren't always better. Even though they withstand higher temps better, they can actually cause higher temps in the first place. There also the point they decrease the MPG for those who are bothered
One of reasons why Subaru along with many other manufacturers recommend thinner oils nowadays, is partially down to the modern oils used can stay within their rated grades and viscosity for a longer time than previous (even semi synthetics). This is partially why Subarus have lengthened their service intervals from 6month/7.5K to 12month/10K on their newer cars as the oil is capable of withstanding longer drain periods.
With older/cheaper oils there is always that risk that the oil will degrade and lose its rated properties before it is due for changing. Thus the old addage in oil decisions: Use cheap mineral oil and change it often or use use expensive synthetics and change it less often. Most Japanease manufacturers use the previous idea and principals and have shoter drain periods. But the German manufacturers prefer to use the latter principals and use longer drain periods.
One of reasons why Subaru along with many other manufacturers recommend thinner oils nowadays, is partially down to the modern oils used can stay within their rated grades and viscosity for a longer time than previous (even semi synthetics). This is partially why Subarus have lengthened their service intervals from 6month/7.5K to 12month/10K on their newer cars as the oil is capable of withstanding longer drain periods.
With older/cheaper oils there is always that risk that the oil will degrade and lose its rated properties before it is due for changing. Thus the old addage in oil decisions: Use cheap mineral oil and change it often or use use expensive synthetics and change it less often. Most Japanease manufacturers use the previous idea and principals and have shoter drain periods. But the German manufacturers prefer to use the latter principals and use longer drain periods.
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