Advice/Help BADLY BADLY NEEDED!
#1
I have just taken my STi3 out for a spin after a "Friend" Changed the oil for me.... Sadly the incorect oil has been used & I now have a VERY clattery bottom end when I rev above 3000rpm. I know now that the entire bottom end need's to be rebuilt & I am wondering if anyone here has had the same work done & can recommend someone to carry out the work & most important, some kind of estimate on how much this will cost. The car has only done 54000 miles & is mint!. As soon as I heard a knocking sound I stopped the car instantly & RAC recovered it, so the damage that has been done is minimal, so hopefully CrankShaft will be fine It is probably just shells that need replacing. I have NO Idea how much this will cost!!!. If I start the car now & rev to 3000rpm, you wouldn't know there was anything wrong with it!!!!. I am soooooooooo annoyed!!!
Please help someone??
Please help someone??
#4
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You could try Barretts of Canterbury for a local option. I use a guy called Dave West and he runs Risborough 4wd on 01844 274652, not local but if you can get the RAC or someone to recover you there its not a problem is it!
He rebuilds a lot of engines on a regular basis.
Tim
He rebuilds a lot of engines on a regular basis.
Tim
#6
Many Thanks for you help.... I have recieved a very kind email from David at API Engines, who I will be calling on Monday.... I just want this put to bed now... I need my car back :-(
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#8
That was another strange thing, that I forgot to mention.... If you put the dipstick in for 2-3 seconds it would read perfect (on the maximum level), but If you leave the dipstick in for 30-40 seconds, it is about 1.5cm above the maximum level, but the engine was completely drained when hot & then filled to 4.75 litres.
What I would really like to know if the oil didn't cause the problem, is how could a 54,000 mile engine that was "Sweet as a nut" suddenly go like this??? I hadn't gone over 3,000rpm since starting the car because it was cold (I never go over 3,000rpm until 10 miles/15 mins driving)....I know things happen to engines sometimes, but what?????
What I would really like to know if the oil didn't cause the problem, is how could a 54,000 mile engine that was "Sweet as a nut" suddenly go like this??? I hadn't gone over 3,000rpm since starting the car because it was cold (I never go over 3,000rpm until 10 miles/15 mins driving)....I know things happen to engines sometimes, but what?????
#9
Sounds a bit like a few other failures where the bottom end has gone virtually immediately after an oil change....
IMHO even using a vastly underrated oil isnt going to completely muller an engine in a quick drive. Yes its going to break down very quickly compared to a suitable oil, but unless its completely rubbish in the first place its going to take a little while for the complex structures to breakdown to provide zero protection.
robski
IMHO even using a vastly underrated oil isnt going to completely muller an engine in a quick drive. Yes its going to break down very quickly compared to a suitable oil, but unless its completely rubbish in the first place its going to take a little while for the complex structures to breakdown to provide zero protection.
robski
#12
I don't know if he filled the oil filter 1st, but could any of this cause the bottom end to fail like it has???? I gues I am just looking for an answer, just so I know for sure what caused all this.... I probably wont know until the engine is in pieces. But I am wondering if the "Imfamous" underated oil pump is a contributury factor???
#14
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I would appreciate some advice in relation to the oil change.
I have a 95 WRX Import with 61,000 miles on.
I am about to change the oil and filter...please tell me a reasonable oil(viscosity etc) to do the job.
Is my capacity 4.5 ltrs aswell?
Many Thanks,
Russ
I have a 95 WRX Import with 61,000 miles on.
I am about to change the oil and filter...please tell me a reasonable oil(viscosity etc) to do the job.
Is my capacity 4.5 ltrs aswell?
Many Thanks,
Russ
#15
Unless the oil was way overfilled or way underfilled I cannot see how a 5W30 oil change could trash the engine, sounds like something was on the way out and the change in oil finished it off.
5W30 oil is generally regarded as too thin but it would take thousands of miles of hard use to take its toll.
5W30 oil is generally regarded as too thin but it would take thousands of miles of hard use to take its toll.
#16
yeah I know what you mean about the oil not trashing the engine, I just find it so hard to understand that an engine could be absaloutley perfect! for all them miles & then overnight (without any kind of thrashing) the big end knackers!!!. I just feel that something must have failed in the engine...but what???? I mean, I could have just bought the car, test drove it etc, & it would have been perfect!, then the next morning BANG!. I would have gone straight back to where I bought it convinced that they would have known it had a problem.. (Does anyone know where I am coming from here) ???? lol
I am slowly getting my sense of humour back now ;-)
I am slowly getting my sense of humour back now ;-)
#18
I'd make absolutely sure that something internal has gone bang, otherwise you could have a big bill for nothing. There are loads of rattles etc in these engines. Could just be a heatshield.
ref: oil pumps. Shouldn't be a problem on a standard car, but its not the pump that goes, just a O ring apparently.
ref: Oil change, including priming the oil filter my STI3 takes 4.75 ltrs. About 1/4 litre goes in the filter. This makes it read 1/2way between the two marks on the dip stick. BUT, I put in a bit less than this to start with and then let the engine run for 2-3 minutes, let it settle and top it off.
If you do need a rebuild its time to put in some interesting bits
ref: oil pumps. Shouldn't be a problem on a standard car, but its not the pump that goes, just a O ring apparently.
ref: Oil change, including priming the oil filter my STI3 takes 4.75 ltrs. About 1/4 litre goes in the filter. This makes it read 1/2way between the two marks on the dip stick. BUT, I put in a bit less than this to start with and then let the engine run for 2-3 minutes, let it settle and top it off.
If you do need a rebuild its time to put in some interesting bits
#21
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Oil change
Engine warm, jack up passenger side of car (make it easy to access filter and helps the oil drain out) and undo sump plug, drain oil.
take off filter and throw away
Take one new Subaru filter (original part) and fill to the top. The oil will disappear into the filter, keep topping up until this stops, takes about 15 mins! Make note of how much oil you have used.
Replace sump plug washer with a new one (best to get one when you buy the OE filter ) and refit sump plug.
Fill with oil of your choice, use 4.5 litres in total - thats including the oil you put in the filter, do not use the dipstick as a guide, you dipstick!
(Optional: I don't do this, others do - disconnect cam position sensor and start the car, this will turn the engine over to prime the oil pump, but it won't fire or flood the engine. Reconnect the sensor.)
Start engine, but only once you've convinced yourself that you've probably done something wrong and your car will blow up, like the unfortunate threadstarter. Let it idle for a few mins.
Pray every day that the car won't blow up for 200 miles after oil change, however you'll forget about this bit in less than a week.
Disclaimer: This is how I change my oil and how my mechanic did it previously (except for the praying and paranioa - thats optional) I change oil every 3500 - 4000 miles and have done for over 20000 miles now. I am now on my seventh engine
Justin
Engine warm, jack up passenger side of car (make it easy to access filter and helps the oil drain out) and undo sump plug, drain oil.
take off filter and throw away
Take one new Subaru filter (original part) and fill to the top. The oil will disappear into the filter, keep topping up until this stops, takes about 15 mins! Make note of how much oil you have used.
Replace sump plug washer with a new one (best to get one when you buy the OE filter ) and refit sump plug.
Fill with oil of your choice, use 4.5 litres in total - thats including the oil you put in the filter, do not use the dipstick as a guide, you dipstick!
(Optional: I don't do this, others do - disconnect cam position sensor and start the car, this will turn the engine over to prime the oil pump, but it won't fire or flood the engine. Reconnect the sensor.)
Start engine, but only once you've convinced yourself that you've probably done something wrong and your car will blow up, like the unfortunate threadstarter. Let it idle for a few mins.
Pray every day that the car won't blow up for 200 miles after oil change, however you'll forget about this bit in less than a week.
Disclaimer: This is how I change my oil and how my mechanic did it previously (except for the praying and paranioa - thats optional) I change oil every 3500 - 4000 miles and have done for over 20000 miles now. I am now on my seventh engine
Justin
#23
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LOL, cheers
May I also add that once you have filled the filter full of oil, to actually fit it to the engine - I forgot to mention that bit
May I also add that once you have filled the filter full of oil, to actually fit it to the engine - I forgot to mention that bit
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