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Changed wishbone finally

Old Apr 14, 2025 | 07:01 PM
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Default Changed wishbone finally

Finally got round to changing my ali wishbone for a steel one.
I couldn't budge the track rod end ,ended up snapping a 13mm spanner 🔧.
13mm kept slipping off the bar part as well.
I guess they are normally hard to do.
I'll have to take in to get done.
Will the garage apply heat?
Also can't believe how hard the 2 bolts were 2 get out at the big bush end.
They were hard to get out for the full bolt didn't matter that they were moving.
Can confirm that Ali wishbone is 15mm longer than steel.
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Old Apr 14, 2025 | 07:02 PM
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Old Apr 14, 2025 | 07:03 PM
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These bolts 🤬
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Old Apr 14, 2025 | 07:04 PM
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Couldn't get the cone off this either but I'd ordered a new ball joint anyway
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Old Apr 15, 2025 | 07:04 AM
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why change?usually is opposite way steel to alloy on wagons

Did few jobs on mine,trailing arms,drop links,bbk, abs sensor etc and most of them are really pain in the *** with those rusty bolts.
Impact gun and bolt/nuts extractor set helps a lot.
​​​
For ball joint Fuji sells not bad key/solution
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Old Apr 15, 2025 | 07:14 AM
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As of other thread, just trying to get to bottle of a few issues could be related to wrong wishbone fitted.
I did buy another 2nd hand Ali wishbone and saloon arb but he sent wrong one so just matching the original steel for now see if issue goes away.
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Old Apr 15, 2025 | 08:57 AM
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the extra 'cone' on the ball joint is only fitted in conjunction with the Ali arms as it basically serves to protect the arm from wear..........
on the steel arms the ball joint is a direct fitment
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Old Apr 15, 2025 | 08:59 AM
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just to add there are various different dimensions for both Alloy and Steel arms changing with MY and also vehicle / model fitment..........
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Old Apr 15, 2025 | 10:43 AM
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When I changed mine, I bought a ball-joint puller from ICP. However, I couldn't even separate the wishbone from the ball-joint. In the end, the ball-joint came out with the wishbone still attached. I suspect that it's another one of these jobs that is infinitely easier with the car raised on a ramp, where you can apply proper leverage, rather than laying on your back, with the car on stands...

The steel wishbones are just for the Wagon, they are shorter as you've found. Because of the difference in length, you need Wagon specific ARB and drop-links to fit properly. The driveshafts are also different lengths but I think you can mix the Saloon/Wagon ones without any negative effect. The track on the Wagons is like 18mm narrower, which means different wishbones, driveshafts, ARB, droplinks, wings etc. I would have thought it would be cheaper for Subaru to just make a single component, rather than a whole load of Wagon specific parts, I assume there was method in their madness though....

One other thing to note, there is a recall (R/2011/146) for corroded steel wishbones, where Subaru have to replace them free of charge if they are rotten. I had both mine replaced a few years back.

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Old Apr 15, 2025 | 12:20 PM
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Yes, I've found the differing lengths etc out.
This is my 2nd ownership of this wagon and the nearside wishbone had been changed to an Ali one but they didn't change anything else but strangely it drove straight and true.
But it started shaking when braking which felt like it was from that side which is when I noticed what had been done.
Is it possible to break the track rod end with it still connected at the ball joint or do you need to hold the inner rod as well just for the initial break?
I measured the thread exposed on each side and yes Ali is 30mm and steel is 15mm.
The steel one I've fitted is off a hawk wagon and seems to match exactly length wise for the drop link .
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Old Apr 15, 2025 | 12:22 PM
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I was able to get ball joint out by hitting the cone downwards with a chisel and lump hammer.
Fortunately the cone seems welded on 😉
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Old Apr 15, 2025 | 01:08 PM
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Originally Posted by stamina_daddy
Yes, I've found the differing lengths etc out.
This is my 2nd ownership of this wagon and the nearside wishbone had been changed to an Ali one but they didn't change anything else but strangely it drove straight and true.
But it started shaking when braking which felt like it was from that side which is when I noticed what had been done.
Is it possible to break the track rod end with it still connected at the ball joint or do you need to hold the inner rod as well just for the initial break?
I measured the thread exposed on each side and yes Ali is 30mm and steel is 15mm.
The steel one I've fitted is off a hawk wagon and seems to match exactly length wise for the drop link .
Track rod is connected to the hub. Not sure how the ball joint is relevant?
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Old Apr 15, 2025 | 01:57 PM
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I disconnected the track rod from the hub and was trying to move the outer rod inwards to make up the 15mm.
Using 13mm spanner and 22mm spanner but was extremely difficult to do.
So I gave up.
Read that you can break the joint with the rod still connected to the hub?
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Old Apr 15, 2025 | 02:42 PM
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Not my photo but this is what I mean
Not my photo but this is what I mean
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Old Apr 15, 2025 | 03:20 PM
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You lot made a very simple exercise into an awful big job
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Old Apr 15, 2025 | 04:51 PM
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At least it's keeping the forum active 😆
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Old Apr 15, 2025 | 05:35 PM
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Originally Posted by stamina_daddy
At least it's keeping the forum active 😆
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Old Apr 16, 2025 | 10:01 AM
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Reconnect the rod end and turn the inner rod.
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Old May 1, 2025 | 06:04 PM
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Managed to wind the track rod but fkd up by not having steering wheel straight when I did it 😀
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Old May 1, 2025 | 06:05 PM
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Drives fairly straight but steering wheel a mile off.
Drives fairly straight but steering wheel a mile off.
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Old May 1, 2025 | 06:07 PM
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Taken car to garage as still got shaking on braking and noise from that side hoping it's a wheel bearing ✅
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Old May 2, 2025 | 11:59 AM
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Most likely the tracking. I had similar experience when I changed my wishbone until I tweaked the toe.
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