building a track car part daux (2)
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building a track car part daux (2)
hi guys as promised the next instalment of my build of the classic track car
the anti likt kit and lower brace
the anti -lift kit adds 0.5 degrees of extra caster and comes in yellow poly bush (COMFORT and MOTORSPORT black bush same as a bleached blond
the old unit showing bushes and washers
the anti-lift kit (gold) ,its purpose is to control the lower wishbone and link it to the chassis via compliance rubber bushes its a double link mounted wishbone ,doing away with the need for a forward link ie compression strut . the problem is the caster is low, making the car under steer when pushed into corners .the fitting of an anti -lift kit can cure the problem .by fitting top strut mounts that are adjustable caster and camber this can also cancell out the dreaded problem i will deal with these in a later post.
this is a standard mounting showing the location to the chassis by 2 bolts
this is the old bracket removed from the wishbone showing the pin that holds it in place
this is an easy mod to carry out ,first jack up your car locate on stands for safety making sure its secure before going under (your health and safety)
release the large nut on the end of the w/bone 22mm or 24mm ,then slacken both bolts to the chassis then remove bkt and rubber washers and metal bump washers(remember the order you dissembled them
the anti-lift kit is marked top so you cant go wrong ,refit the first washer that was against the wishbone lube all parts with grease provided fit the ALK and second bump washer then new nyloc nut ,and fit the 2 locator bolts back in the chassis holes coating with grease or copperslip to aid removal if you ever have to take appart again at a later date
tighten up both bolts to chassis very tight ,tighten the nut on the ALK to about the same as you would a spark plug this is so you can now lift the bottom wishbone with your jack to just lift the weight enough to load up the suspension then tighten the nut to ft (FECKIN TIGHT) 200-250nm
this allows the bushes to be in the normal loaded position and wont be wound up when driving this rule of thumb should be adopted for all suspension components -bushes get your to-in checked now to correct any alignment problems
its at this point i fitted the lower suspension brace
this component braces the lower pick up points on the chassis legs to minimise flexing of thr lower chassis
it bolts to the front wishbone bolt and rear ALK mounting bolt simple but effective mod.
the next job was the steering rack bushes
there was a lot of flexing on my rack bushes so they had to go
poly bushes in yellow
the rack is held on with 4 bolts -remove the bolts allowing the rack to come down
i always release this bolt on the steering downshaft to give me more clearance on the xmember coat the new ploy bushes in the grease provided in the kit and reasemble (rem/ to tighten the downshaft bolt job done this mod will transform steering feel
the front anti-roll bar next.another simple mod ,the arb is held on by 4 bolts on to the chassis in two brackets with rubber bushes, linked by rods to the wish bones to convey the body roll into the bar.the thicker the bar the stronger it is altering roll stiffness .
this is the bkt holding the bar in place
you need to remove the lower bracket in the x member only 4 bolts hold it in place
on my sti it has solid drop links thar are bolted on to the bracket on the alloy wishbone
on the end of the d/link there is a recess for a torx socket ,mine were chewed so i used mole grips to hold the link while removing the nut on the end
the new drop links to be fitted now (airfix kit
follow the instructions and build up the d/links
this is how they look after assembly.
the bar is easy to fit you get 2 new poly bushes -remember to lube them with grease supplied and refit the x member bracket.
next mods soon
longer balljoints and longer track rod ends to combat bump steer having the suspension lowered
rear suspension arms and rear x member lock kit thats the 2 bolt in the picture
rear 330mm compbrake with hydraulic hand brake system
i am fitting residual pressure valves to all the calipers to combat soft pedal feel when under track conditions they hold 2 psi pressure in the line keepink the seals flexed and hard pedal
if any body wants info just pm me here geo
the anti likt kit and lower brace
the anti -lift kit adds 0.5 degrees of extra caster and comes in yellow poly bush (COMFORT and MOTORSPORT black bush same as a bleached blond
the old unit showing bushes and washers
the anti-lift kit (gold) ,its purpose is to control the lower wishbone and link it to the chassis via compliance rubber bushes its a double link mounted wishbone ,doing away with the need for a forward link ie compression strut . the problem is the caster is low, making the car under steer when pushed into corners .the fitting of an anti -lift kit can cure the problem .by fitting top strut mounts that are adjustable caster and camber this can also cancell out the dreaded problem i will deal with these in a later post.
this is a standard mounting showing the location to the chassis by 2 bolts
this is the old bracket removed from the wishbone showing the pin that holds it in place
this is an easy mod to carry out ,first jack up your car locate on stands for safety making sure its secure before going under (your health and safety)
release the large nut on the end of the w/bone 22mm or 24mm ,then slacken both bolts to the chassis then remove bkt and rubber washers and metal bump washers(remember the order you dissembled them
the anti-lift kit is marked top so you cant go wrong ,refit the first washer that was against the wishbone lube all parts with grease provided fit the ALK and second bump washer then new nyloc nut ,and fit the 2 locator bolts back in the chassis holes coating with grease or copperslip to aid removal if you ever have to take appart again at a later date
tighten up both bolts to chassis very tight ,tighten the nut on the ALK to about the same as you would a spark plug this is so you can now lift the bottom wishbone with your jack to just lift the weight enough to load up the suspension then tighten the nut to ft (FECKIN TIGHT) 200-250nm
this allows the bushes to be in the normal loaded position and wont be wound up when driving this rule of thumb should be adopted for all suspension components -bushes get your to-in checked now to correct any alignment problems
its at this point i fitted the lower suspension brace
this component braces the lower pick up points on the chassis legs to minimise flexing of thr lower chassis
it bolts to the front wishbone bolt and rear ALK mounting bolt simple but effective mod.
the next job was the steering rack bushes
there was a lot of flexing on my rack bushes so they had to go
poly bushes in yellow
the rack is held on with 4 bolts -remove the bolts allowing the rack to come down
i always release this bolt on the steering downshaft to give me more clearance on the xmember coat the new ploy bushes in the grease provided in the kit and reasemble (rem/ to tighten the downshaft bolt job done this mod will transform steering feel
the front anti-roll bar next.another simple mod ,the arb is held on by 4 bolts on to the chassis in two brackets with rubber bushes, linked by rods to the wish bones to convey the body roll into the bar.the thicker the bar the stronger it is altering roll stiffness .
this is the bkt holding the bar in place
you need to remove the lower bracket in the x member only 4 bolts hold it in place
on my sti it has solid drop links thar are bolted on to the bracket on the alloy wishbone
on the end of the d/link there is a recess for a torx socket ,mine were chewed so i used mole grips to hold the link while removing the nut on the end
the new drop links to be fitted now (airfix kit
follow the instructions and build up the d/links
this is how they look after assembly.
the bar is easy to fit you get 2 new poly bushes -remember to lube them with grease supplied and refit the x member bracket.
next mods soon
longer balljoints and longer track rod ends to combat bump steer having the suspension lowered
rear suspension arms and rear x member lock kit thats the 2 bolt in the picture
rear 330mm compbrake with hydraulic hand brake system
i am fitting residual pressure valves to all the calipers to combat soft pedal feel when under track conditions they hold 2 psi pressure in the line keepink the seals flexed and hard pedal
if any body wants info just pm me here geo
Last edited by cusco kid; 23 November 2007 at 12:32 PM.
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Looking good. I might have to try the classic under body brace no I've removed my c-frame as it seems to connect to all the right areas, not seen one fitted up before
I have to say, I wasn't impressed with the whiteline drop-links, mine rusted away and snapped in about 2-years despite regular cleaning and greasing - the roll centre kit works though
I have to say, I wasn't impressed with the whiteline drop-links, mine rusted away and snapped in about 2-years despite regular cleaning and greasing - the roll centre kit works though
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