progress on track car j3 geo
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progress on track car j3 geo
here is the latest mods to track car guys ///fuel system
we are running red top pump low pressure to the swirl pot fed from tank with modified pick up pipe
the swirl pot then feeds the high pressure pump ,first through a merc filter then to the fuel rail
we have fitted an alloy firewall for safety, and the aircraft spec hoses are then coupled through the f/wall on high pressure connections (piccs to be taken
the pump is a sytec mounted on a c class fuel pump bracket with rubbers to combat vibration problems
good old mercedes parts
all the fuel system parts are rubber mounted
SUSPENSION MODS TO REAR
we have fitted adjustable whiteline track(PINK) (powered coated by us at Williams powder coating ) arms to allow us to increase the track width ,verus competion coil overs were the first mod before we stripped the car down to mod for the track/ sprint/ hillclimb . we were impressed with the handling from the start. buy playing with bump and rebound,then adjusting the crossover settings the handling just got better and better with no sacrifice in ride quality..here is some piccs
first step was to remove the old track arms //the long bolt through the hub that locates the track arms were fooooooookin tight
they wee japs can tighten nuts
the toe adjusting bolt thar subaru use to adjust tracking this will be deleted fr a toe lock kit bolt type an tracking is carried out on the new track arm adjusters.the inner bolt is still used to locate the arm
we then removed the radius arms ,again bolts were tight so i removed the chassis mounting brackets(3bolts ) so that i could then get them in the vice to slacken the long location bolts
the new poly sus/bushes to be fitted in the hub carrier and radius rod after p/coating
the new bars fitted alloy d/links and stout mount kit 27mm on,all bushes lubed all bolts coppersliped to ease strip down later
kev and i had already fitted poly bushes to the diff xmember
this stops the x member banging //movement against the chassis on quick up shifts and downshifts
we are running red top pump low pressure to the swirl pot fed from tank with modified pick up pipe
the swirl pot then feeds the high pressure pump ,first through a merc filter then to the fuel rail
we have fitted an alloy firewall for safety, and the aircraft spec hoses are then coupled through the f/wall on high pressure connections (piccs to be taken
the pump is a sytec mounted on a c class fuel pump bracket with rubbers to combat vibration problems
good old mercedes parts
all the fuel system parts are rubber mounted
SUSPENSION MODS TO REAR
we have fitted adjustable whiteline track(PINK) (powered coated by us at Williams powder coating ) arms to allow us to increase the track width ,verus competion coil overs were the first mod before we stripped the car down to mod for the track/ sprint/ hillclimb . we were impressed with the handling from the start. buy playing with bump and rebound,then adjusting the crossover settings the handling just got better and better with no sacrifice in ride quality..here is some piccs
first step was to remove the old track arms //the long bolt through the hub that locates the track arms were fooooooookin tight
they wee japs can tighten nuts
the toe adjusting bolt thar subaru use to adjust tracking this will be deleted fr a toe lock kit bolt type an tracking is carried out on the new track arm adjusters.the inner bolt is still used to locate the arm
we then removed the radius arms ,again bolts were tight so i removed the chassis mounting brackets(3bolts ) so that i could then get them in the vice to slacken the long location bolts
the new poly sus/bushes to be fitted in the hub carrier and radius rod after p/coating
the new bars fitted alloy d/links and stout mount kit 27mm on,all bushes lubed all bolts coppersliped to ease strip down later
kev and i had already fitted poly bushes to the diff xmember
this stops the x member banging //movement against the chassis on quick up shifts and downshifts
#2
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looking nice, how easy/difficult did you find the job of removing the trailing arm?
I need to remove my rear driver side to check if it's bent or the hub is bend as the camber is wrong on the rear wheel at the moment.
I need to remove my rear driver side to check if it's bent or the hub is bend as the camber is wrong on the rear wheel at the moment.
#3
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because i am powder coating them once on the bench and in the vice the bolts came out no probs. cheers geo
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