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I see "Black" OEM NEW 2020 Subaru Crosstrek Impreza Wheel Lug Nut Locks B321SFL020 on some US internet sites
Does anyone know if this the new part number for the Black Crosstrek / BRZ wheel nuts ?
Is this an official Subaru part ? possible to order in the UK ?
Will the nuts above fit WRX MY05 with 17 inch Standard alloy wheels ?
that normally use the items below :
The above WRX standard wheel nut assy I believe are M12x1,25 and are tapper to flat base.
For the same Nut part number on another US site I see the description " OEM 1987-2019 Subaru Forester Impreza Legacy Exterior Wheel Lug Nut 28171AJ000" 2019 BRZ Crosstrek
So I begin to think that they maybe compatible , but I would rather source in the UK.
See below after black painting the 'Subaru' hub centre cap, Id now like to get some black wheel nuts in original quality and at same25mm length.
It's an accessory pack listed in "all" of the US 2020 Subaru Accessories Brochures for the ever increasing use of black OEM wheels
2020 forester brochure page
Anyone know a supplier of these in UK ?
On Flea bay , I found an offering from "nuts4wheels" who do "20 x Black Hex Wheel Nuts M12x1.25 Fits Subaru Impreza Blobeye Bugeye P1" from Crediton UK whom I also see as trading ROTA Wheels and a Web site Rare Rims.co.uk
These are 10mm longer than our standard chrome parts.
This is the picture for the 12 x 1.25 but of course as in these shops they showed here a stock photo M12 x 1.5 thread although both sizes are on offer so should not be a problem,
provided you pick right.
I ended up looking at a place called "Wheelpartsdirectuk" who are in Rochford UK
I fancied using "Black Locking Wheel Nuts 12x1.25 Bolts for Subaru BRZ 12-16" these are 32mm high.
If you look around quiet a bit is on offer ,
I just made this purchase with these as a "B display" product for £15 from a UK shop
and should work with my Powder coated wheels
I will have to use one black locking nut for now and maybe find a matched spray paint later,
and for sure whatever I do will look better than the rusty chromed originals, if the ones above look too blingy
I can either respray them or just order the same style in black for £20
Last edited by Linksfahrer; 27 March 2021 at 10:58 AM.
Reason: Some options found
After doing 3 hrs of internet search and sifting through the compatibility , I discovered that basically any Nissan, Suzuki, Infinity, Subaru , and many other manufactures use 12x1.25 on 60 degree taper.
If you are prepared to key search on the other names, this gives us an enormous choice of wheel nuts for our Subarus, be careful on the offer postage / eventual customs cost though , the better tuner names / quality are often sent from abroad.
I also found Halfords stocking the McGaurd product line , but you do pay a premium price for that quality.
I think the UK based "wheelpartsdirectuk" price of a simple black / silver / chrome wheel nut set example "Set of 20 * 12x1.25mm 12x1.25 Alloy Steel Wheel Lug Nuts 60 Degree Tapered Bolts" for £15 is hard to beat.
where sets with 16+4 locking nuts can also be found.
I liked this style also at "wheelpartsdirectuk" 5 of these for £6.99 , so if they rust why not just buy some more.
These are of course all steel and the finish is certainly not A1 quality and are mostly 32-35mm in length but you really can't complain at that money.
If you are looking for the same nut height to replace the original chrome # 28171AJ000 ICP seem to be a good reliable UK VAT registered source.
However for a black original part the ones Don Clark also found on the Subaru Forester US site # BL321SFL020 are "currently" still the only way / US route to obtain a Subaru part.
Some of the cheap alloy ones are a nightmare for threads tearing. I learnt my lesson when I couldn't get a wheel back on in a dangerous situation.
I got the sti Mcgard ones, but only because I'm going for a national record on sti branding.
Difficult to say , probably they are fine for quality but what length are they ?
I can't see the length from the closed pack..
Do you have them or can you tell me what the McGard nut length is ?
The Std chrome nuts are rounded and only 25mm high , which blended fairly well to the original wheels
( very well if they were silver / slightly less well if gold ).
As you can see from my latest posts first photo ( viewed from above ) the 35mm nuts protrusion is anything but aesthetic on the eye,
Thanks for finding this info Don.
At least it means I won't make a purchase and feel be dissapointed by what arrives.
If I can't find a standard 25mm black nut , then my next step might be to do something with the original nuts.
As I have two sets of these, im considering stripping the chrome off , and recoating them somehow. Need to talk with my local powder coater.
Anybody used Muteki nuts? They have lots of different styles and colours available but I have no personal experience so no idea how they might hold up. A lot cheaper than the McGard options too.
Anybody used Muteki nuts? They have lots of different styles and colours available but I have no personal experience so no idea how they might hold up. A lot cheaper than the McGard options too.
Yes me. Very rusty after 2 years living near the sea. But nice, solid steel ones, rather than alloy.
Error on my part , I actually meant to say 120NM. For being so alert , I will own up to why I do that.
I do this because of a nasty experience I had at 19 yrs of age, with a Fiat 124 Sport. At that time my friend and I , with whom I shared the car did not own a toque wrench. One day after hurriedly bleeding the brakes at his house we drove off , we had gone perhaps 3 miles I was suddenly aware of a vibration, inexperience and whilst we were in a rush the urgency prevented me from immediately stopping to check. David had been doing the wheel nuts and as I turned to look at him to ask did you tighten the wheel nuts ? and whilst coasting downhill past Brentwood Police station the vibration became suddenly worse, I was suddenly aware of a bump ! the car lurched up , which was strange as we were now going down hill at 30 mph. Applying the brakes through instinct rather than an understanding of what was happening, I was suddenly aware of movement in my right eye and both David and I were astounded to see our Crommodora rear wheel overtaking us , and even accelerating past us down the hill. As I braked our view of the proceedings improved as our car now righted itself to a more normal attitude, meanwhile the passing wheel had now developed a small bounce and thankfully together with the camber of the road it moved to the left , which was very advantageous as the procession of funeral cars were coming out of the Cemetery to our right were treated to the spectacle ,
I will never forget the astounded look of the passengers looking through the picture windows of the black cars as we passed each other. Meanwhile the wheel had bounced onto the path and straightened its direction of travel and rolled into the Esso petrol garage to our left , it missed all the cars and pumps and rolled over toward the air pump settling down face up as if deliberately laid on the kerb for attention.
Meanwhile our progress in the following car had diminished somewhat and at this point as we slide into the forecourt one of the customers returning to his car said Ohi, you've lost your wheel ! (don't you just love people stating the bloody obvious ) Being an exuberant young type and not wanting to be further embarrassed I engaged first gear and gave just enough throttle to enable our forecourt entry and arrival at the air pump, however as the momentum was lost so the last couple of yards were covered with some rather nasty noises and no doubt sparks coming from the complaining rear disk brake as it made acquaintance with the forecourt. The noise abated as we came to a halt. David then got out of the car turned to the spectator and said. We have not lost our wheel , we just sent it on ahead to get some fresh air. He then calmly checked the pressure of the tyre, then smiled at the by now more numerous spectators spectators took the jack and spider out of the boot and refitted the wheel, with me doing my Video Frogger impression whilst finding three of the missing wheel nuts somewhere backup the road and David stealing a nut from the other rear wheel. we were able to continue our journey.
Since that day I have been fastidious with torque on the wheels, and while most cars with alloy wheels these days I also use 120 NM.
Don I corrected my post the first picture in case anyone looks at it and takes the lbft figure which would certainly damage or strip the nut threads.
Last edited by Linksfahrer; 31 March 2021 at 11:35 AM.
Reason: Thanks to Don for seeing my Lbft torque error
Yes me. Very rusty after 2 years living near the sea. But nice, solid steel ones, rather than alloy.
It's not like the OE nuts don't rust either. The ones on my mums Forester are very much brown from rust. Granted it probably took more than 2 years to happen but it can still happen. Maybe the answer is to get whatever nuts you like black oxide coated or something.
I've the McGard Black Edition on mine... they don't stick out like that.
and torque is only about 102Nm
Im sure if you check the nuts periodically the subaru factory figures are fine.
But I do find it interesting that the VAG group use 110-120 Nm and where I set my long wheel torque wrench. I asked the wife to remove a nut with the onboard tool and it was pointless at even 70 Nm . The solution was a 60cm piece of water pipe. Probably illegal to wave around but perfect in case of a flat rubber.
Not going into the metallurgy of it, but you get a more accurate torque on a nut and stud than you do with a bolt. As such cars with bolts tend to have higher torque specifications than cars with nuts and studs.
Been looking to convert my Golf to studs, but the nuts tend to stick too far from the wheel and the corrosion issues as mentioned have put me off. OEM have plastic caps over the bolt heads.
Any 6 sided Hex style nut/bolt will corrode where there is contact between the socket...sockets never fit tight due to tolerance and wear, as the socket 'bites' near each high point (worse if it's a 16point hex), causing an indent that either chips the paint or damages the anodised/chrome coating. This will be made a thousand time worse if impact wrench are used (even just the once).
Snap-on and Mac both do sockets that 'bite' on the flats of the nut; AkA 'Flank drive', but still these are going to leave indents, just in a different place. But the contact area maybe bigger, so maybe less surface damage to the nut.
I've been looking at Racing line nuts, which look pretty. But very expensive and looks like black anodised which isn't durable and with no feedback on longevity of finish (I suspect v'dub owners that use them are allergic to salty roads ).
So really there are few other options: Chrome Vanadium coated nuts. Bit like OEM, or your wrench, very hard so resistant to socket damage (except impact wrenches ) and corrosion resistant, but will eventually rust if uncared for. (like a chrome bumper on an old car). Not sure if you could get them black chromed (not shadow chrome; that's just paint), a chrome plater could assist on this.
Second is nuts with stainless steel caps...like Ford and Land Rover. These fit over the tops of galvanised nuts. The nuts themselves are 1mm smaller in size and the caps bring them back to 19mm (I don't think I've seen these in 17mm and not sure how Ford threads and tapers differ to Subaru). Again not black, but being stainless there are ways to darken it (chemical blackening), but not sure how that lasts.
Third. Use internal Allan/Star nuts. Then all the contact damage is inside the nut on not on the outside. Now these will protrude more as the nut needs to be deep enough to to allow a Allan head socket to go in deep enough without chewing it up. Damage/rust may still appear in the middle...a dust cap for the centre would be nice. Not found any look trustworthy though ( dubious Chinese origin etc. ).
26 March 2021, 06:17 PM
Black Wheel Nuts of OEM quality ?
).
) and corrosion resistant, but will eventually rust if uncared for. (like a chrome bumper on an old car). Not sure if you could get them black chromed (not shadow chrome; that's just paint), a chrome plater could assist on this.