Is there much point?
#1
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
Is there much point?
Hi,
so so I have found a post from my old account by searching the number plate from 9 years ago, god knows how I remember it but hey ho.
i found the spec I was running and was wondering if it’s worth doing the same or staying with my v1 sti basic cdb and heads and build from that.
See pic attached, any recommendations to changes or improvements would be welcome guys.
so so I have found a post from my old account by searching the number plate from 9 years ago, god knows how I remember it but hey ho.
i found the spec I was running and was wondering if it’s worth doing the same or staying with my v1 sti basic cdb and heads and build from that.
See pic attached, any recommendations to changes or improvements would be welcome guys.
#4
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
#5
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (51)
Sell your busted CDB for £400, add a few quid to it and buy a newage 2.0 STI short block. Have your heads refreshed and bolt them to the block.
Easiest and cheapest way to a reliable 350bhp. If you're not planning to push on past 400bhp then I wouldn't bother going down the engine build route, unless you have plenty of money ofcourse.
Easiest and cheapest way to a reliable 350bhp. If you're not planning to push on past 400bhp then I wouldn't bother going down the engine build route, unless you have plenty of money ofcourse.
#6
Scooby Regular
I don’t get why you’d scrap everything in it?
What ever isn’t knackered is useable if it’s a cdb all way through and not been swapped about with it will happily run that bhp
unless budget isn’t a issue and piece of mind and all that crap.
Its a genuine cdb it’s genuine to the car which if you throw a engine that’s not meant to be in it will only detract from the value of the car.
There only in version 1s as standered because Subaru realised they could save money by putting a less specd engine in.
What ever isn’t knackered is useable if it’s a cdb all way through and not been swapped about with it will happily run that bhp
unless budget isn’t a issue and piece of mind and all that crap.
Its a genuine cdb it’s genuine to the car which if you throw a engine that’s not meant to be in it will only detract from the value of the car.
There only in version 1s as standered because Subaru realised they could save money by putting a less specd engine in.
#7
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (51)
I don’t get why you’d scrap everything in it?
What ever isn’t knackered is useable if it’s a cdb all way through and not been swapped about with it will happily run that bhp
unless budget isn’t a issue and piece of mind and all that crap.
Its a genuine cdb it’s genuine to the car which if you throw a engine that’s not meant to be in it will only detract from the value of the car.
There only in version 1s as standered because Subaru realised they could save money by putting a less specd engine in.
What ever isn’t knackered is useable if it’s a cdb all way through and not been swapped about with it will happily run that bhp
unless budget isn’t a issue and piece of mind and all that crap.
Its a genuine cdb it’s genuine to the car which if you throw a engine that’s not meant to be in it will only detract from the value of the car.
There only in version 1s as standered because Subaru realised they could save money by putting a less specd engine in.
Which parts would you reuse from inside a 25 year old engine if you were having a fresh engine build done ?
Which model are you referring to when you say "version 1" ?
Last edited by MattyB1983; 03 September 2019 at 09:41 PM.
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#8
Scooby Regular
With out seeing what was wrong with engine which is currently a mystery. Which to be honest even if like to see pictures of engine internals.
So deoendant on whats useable but as long as not damaged, piston crowns, rods , crank , pins. Is only be changing the wearable parts I.e shells rings seals.
Example being if bottom end had gone the crank would obvousley be scrap I have tried a ground crank many years ago and didn’t have a good experience with it.
The key to you saying 20 odd year old engine is that they weren’t built like the Throw away engines off today.
Iv quite a few cars about me including a 1969 Datsun that iv rebuilt once 5 year ago in the entire time of owning it compared to the newer cars I’ve owned it puts them to shame.
My RA was running low 400s and i rebuilt that in exactly the same way and ran it 4 years. That was bought with head gasket issues which once stripped down turned out it had blown side of cylinder through. I bought that a new bare block gaskets rings bearings and never had a issue with it.
This is all just my opinion and on the basis iv been putting silly engines in cars for last 20 year. I’m also quite lucky to have things like glass bead cleaners industrial engine component cleaners etc to hand.
Out of intrest what would you change on a engine for arguements sake is forged as standered.
So deoendant on whats useable but as long as not damaged, piston crowns, rods , crank , pins. Is only be changing the wearable parts I.e shells rings seals.
Example being if bottom end had gone the crank would obvousley be scrap I have tried a ground crank many years ago and didn’t have a good experience with it.
The key to you saying 20 odd year old engine is that they weren’t built like the Throw away engines off today.
Iv quite a few cars about me including a 1969 Datsun that iv rebuilt once 5 year ago in the entire time of owning it compared to the newer cars I’ve owned it puts them to shame.
My RA was running low 400s and i rebuilt that in exactly the same way and ran it 4 years. That was bought with head gasket issues which once stripped down turned out it had blown side of cylinder through. I bought that a new bare block gaskets rings bearings and never had a issue with it.
This is all just my opinion and on the basis iv been putting silly engines in cars for last 20 year. I’m also quite lucky to have things like glass bead cleaners industrial engine component cleaners etc to hand.
Out of intrest what would you change on a engine for arguements sake is forged as standered.
#9
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (51)
With out seeing what was wrong with engine which is currently a mystery. Which to be honest even if like to see pictures of engine internals.
So deoendant on whats useable but as long as not damaged, piston crowns, rods , crank , pins. Is only be changing the wearable parts I.e shells rings seals.
Example being if bottom end had gone the crank would obvousley be scrap I have tried a ground crank many years ago and didn’t have a good experience with it.
The key to you saying 20 odd year old engine is that they weren’t built like the Throw away engines off today.
Iv quite a few cars about me including a 1969 Datsun that iv rebuilt once 5 year ago in the entire time of owning it compared to the newer cars I’ve owned it puts them to shame.
My RA was running low 400s and i rebuilt that in exactly the same way and ran it 4 years. That was bought with head gasket issues which once stripped down turned out it had blown side of cylinder through. I bought that a new bare block gaskets rings bearings and never had a issue with it.
This is all just my opinion and on the basis iv been putting silly engines in cars for last 20 year. I’m also quite lucky to have things like glass bead cleaners industrial engine component cleaners etc to hand.
Out of intrest what would you change on a engine for arguements sake is forged as standered.
So deoendant on whats useable but as long as not damaged, piston crowns, rods , crank , pins. Is only be changing the wearable parts I.e shells rings seals.
Example being if bottom end had gone the crank would obvousley be scrap I have tried a ground crank many years ago and didn’t have a good experience with it.
The key to you saying 20 odd year old engine is that they weren’t built like the Throw away engines off today.
Iv quite a few cars about me including a 1969 Datsun that iv rebuilt once 5 year ago in the entire time of owning it compared to the newer cars I’ve owned it puts them to shame.
My RA was running low 400s and i rebuilt that in exactly the same way and ran it 4 years. That was bought with head gasket issues which once stripped down turned out it had blown side of cylinder through. I bought that a new bare block gaskets rings bearings and never had a issue with it.
This is all just my opinion and on the basis iv been putting silly engines in cars for last 20 year. I’m also quite lucky to have things like glass bead cleaners industrial engine component cleaners etc to hand.
Out of intrest what would you change on a engine for arguements sake is forged as standered.
The OP's car is suffering from a knocky engine, so it'll have done a bearing and the knock noise will be the rod rattling its little heart out. Just as mine did and many many other classic imprezas.
Dont get me wrong, you could no doubt bodge the engine up with old parts and make it run and if that's what the op wants to do good luck to him. It's just not the way I'd go about building a car that I wanted to keep and push up to 400bhp.
I've seen hundreds of posts where guys say about how their Impreza is "fully forged as standard"... so what does that actually mean then chap ??
#10
Scooby Regular
close deck blocks should come with a stronger block stronger internals and oil injectors under the piston.
The engine is more then capable of 400 bhp as standered. Every single speacilist every single race team you can think of who was running a Impreza was running a cdb. They are the best engine that ever came in a classic as standered.
I could get onto a whole convo about learning about engines why the engine is built in the way it is etc how ever all this is detracting from the ops original question.
You have advised the op buying a second hand sti block for 600? Then putting his heads onto it and running that. As it would be a couple of hundred more.
But then he is running a block that is un tried in tested and more importantly a bodge as it’s not running brand new pistons rods crank bearings etc etc that’s your statement any way pal. So good luck with that,
The engine is more then capable of 400 bhp as standered. Every single speacilist every single race team you can think of who was running a Impreza was running a cdb. They are the best engine that ever came in a classic as standered.
I could get onto a whole convo about learning about engines why the engine is built in the way it is etc how ever all this is detracting from the ops original question.
You have advised the op buying a second hand sti block for 600? Then putting his heads onto it and running that. As it would be a couple of hundred more.
But then he is running a block that is un tried in tested and more importantly a bodge as it’s not running brand new pistons rods crank bearings etc etc that’s your statement any way pal. So good luck with that,
#11
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (5)
My 2p...
I can see the advantages of both suggestions here and i'm going to offer an alternative solution.
I'd probably look to do the following: standard bearing refresh and replace the scrap parts with off the shelf newage STI items from the likes of ICP. That gives you the STI bottom end and peace of mind of new parts.
An addition to that would be that the CDB will need machining for end thrust for the later crank shaft. Also if the bores need work you will need to go aftermarket pistons.
I dont think that that original internals are good for 400hp. The CDB - definitely but the rods and pistons I'd have me doubts, especially on very much used and potentially already failed items.
I can see the advantages of both suggestions here and i'm going to offer an alternative solution.
I'd probably look to do the following: standard bearing refresh and replace the scrap parts with off the shelf newage STI items from the likes of ICP. That gives you the STI bottom end and peace of mind of new parts.
An addition to that would be that the CDB will need machining for end thrust for the later crank shaft. Also if the bores need work you will need to go aftermarket pistons.
I dont think that that original internals are good for 400hp. The CDB - definitely but the rods and pistons I'd have me doubts, especially on very much used and potentially already failed items.
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#12
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (51)
close deck blocks should come with a stronger block stronger internals and oil injectors under the piston.
The engine is more then capable of 400 bhp as standered. Every single speacilist every single race team you can think of who was running a Impreza was running a cdb. They are the best engine that ever came in a classic as standered.
I could get onto a whole convo about learning about engines why the engine is built in the way it is etc how ever all this is detracting from the ops original question.
You have advised the op buying a second hand sti block for 600? Then putting his heads onto it and running that. As it would be a couple of hundred more.
But then he is running a block that is un tried in tested and more importantly a bodge as it’s not running brand new pistons rods crank bearings etc etc that’s your statement any way pal. So good luck with that,
The engine is more then capable of 400 bhp as standered. Every single speacilist every single race team you can think of who was running a Impreza was running a cdb. They are the best engine that ever came in a classic as standered.
I could get onto a whole convo about learning about engines why the engine is built in the way it is etc how ever all this is detracting from the ops original question.
You have advised the op buying a second hand sti block for 600? Then putting his heads onto it and running that. As it would be a couple of hundred more.
But then he is running a block that is un tried in tested and more importantly a bodge as it’s not running brand new pistons rods crank bearings etc etc that’s your statement any way pal. So good luck with that,
You're clueless and I'm bored. Goodbye.
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#13
Scooby Regular
https://www.scoobynet.com/general-te...-with-cdb.html
https://www.scoobynet.com/general-te...do-i-need.html
https://www.scoobynet.com/general-te...r-2-2-odb.html
https://www.type-ra.com/subaru-forum...ferences.8238/
as said do some research or even better actually take one apart and rebuild it.
You ask questions then don’t like the answers. You didn’t answer why you’d tell the op to bin his second hand parts but then buy a second hand block,
any way sorry to the op for hijacking thread. As iv said all way through it’s just my opinion from experience.
If you do do choose to take it all the way back to rebuild I’d probably have it 2.1 as if you were buying new internals then you may as well upgrade,
https://www.scoobynet.com/general-te...do-i-need.html
https://www.scoobynet.com/general-te...r-2-2-odb.html
https://www.type-ra.com/subaru-forum...ferences.8238/
as said do some research or even better actually take one apart and rebuild it.
You ask questions then don’t like the answers. You didn’t answer why you’d tell the op to bin his second hand parts but then buy a second hand block,
any way sorry to the op for hijacking thread. As iv said all way through it’s just my opinion from experience.
If you do do choose to take it all the way back to rebuild I’d probably have it 2.1 as if you were buying new internals then you may as well upgrade,
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