Gills

Hi all,

so just purchased my 3rd ever Impreza it’s a v1 wagon wrx sti 85/200 and am in need of some advice.

its been a while since I have been on the scooby scene due to family’s etc so bear with me.

the car has a knocking from the engine which I suspect to be the usuall big end bearings so this will be addressed.

im looking to make the build around 400/500bhp so really need advice on what I need to upgrade, what parts are recommended and the best place to purchase them.

spec so far is

japspeed manifold and up pipe with Prodrive exhaust.
pipercross air filter
front mount

as as far as I know these are all the performance upgrades, no remap, or fuel upgrades so any info would be useful?

the seller has confirmed is a closed deck block so hopefully this is correct and will check on Friday when I collect the car, am I right in saying there should be some hatching on the front casing of the block which verifies this externally?

Thanks in advance

LewisScoob

iTrader: (5)

When you say "make the build around 400/500hp" you mean build a bottom end that can handle that or you mean you want to accumulate the parts to achieve 400/500hp?

Either way building the short block to 400hp and building to 500hp are two entirely different things. the standard STI internals from 2001> will handle 400hp. so you could go down the route of rebuilding with standard internal parts. If upgrading the crank to a nitrided/heat treated item you'll need to get the block machined for end thrust bearing instead of centre for the older block. If going that route I know of second hand internals for sale that will take 400hp. .

If you want to build for 500hp then you'll need the above machining and either a combination of upgraded crank, rods and pistons that can handle it or a stroker kit which is essentially the same thing.

Ancilliary components to do 400hp needed will be, as a minimum:
aftermarket induction as the standard inlet will struggle
injectors of 550cc minimum
aftermarket FPR to raise fuel pressure
either an aftermarket or an STI 7/8 TMIC or FMIC
turbo that can do 400hp
ECU that can be remapped for all these mods.
EIther ported headers and uppipe or GT Spec Headers and Uppipe
a good free flowing 2.5" system or 3"

For 500hp its a little different
aftermarket induction
bigger injectors than 550cc
aftermarket FPR
FMIC or a good aftermarket TMIC, the STI one wont be much use
bigger turbo than for 400hp
GT Spec Headers
3" Exhaust

There are other things to consider but thats the basics above for you. Also, can your gearbox handle 400hp or 500hp?

Gills

I’m planning on about 500bhp with internalls if needed.

with regards to the gearbox I know the clutch will need upgrading but not sure what box is in at the min I’m guessing standard 5 speed, what is the limit of this?

Also would I need a upgraded fuel pump?

Once i I get it I will know exactly what is fitted at the minute.

it already has front mount, up pipe and headers but will need to check spec and diameter also.

is there a cut off bhp for the internals I should be aware of that is safe shall I say.

also my old Imprezas I had the apex fc ecu are there any you would recommend for this build?

just to clarify it’s a v1 1994 cdb

LewisScoob

iTrader: (5)

standard 5 speed boxes are on borrowed time above 350hp, especially so for the earlier 752 casings. The later 754's in newage wrx's could probably handlie a bit more but its really down to how its used. 500hp will need a PPG or the like gearset or a 6 speed conversion.

Yes, you'll need an upgraded fuel pump

Cut off for which internals? The ones in it now - 350hp probably

Earlier cars there's a couple of options. There are Apexi's still on the go, there's ESL, Link, Simtek, Alcatek, Syvecs

MattyB1983

iTrader: (51)

Bare in mind you'll need to budget somewhere between 10 and 15 thousand pounds to build a reliable and useable 500bhp classic.

Gills

Ok sounds like a lot to think about, labour wise I will be doing this apart from the machining etc so that would cut costs.

so if I was to go to 400bhp would the new age box work 5 speed?

LewisScoob

iTrader: (5)

Personally, I wouldn't go that high on a 5 speed.

Gills

Ok,

if if I was to go for a 6 speed box which one would I need and is it just a strait bolt on?

LewisScoob

iTrader: (5)

its not a straight bolt on as such.

The box will bolt onto the engine but you'll need a six speed cradle, clutch, flywheel and starter motor as they're different. The propshaft will also have to be a six speed one. Where my knowledge runs out is the rear diff, shafts and hubs. I'd imagine you'll need all these too but others may know better.

The easieast way would be to buy the job lot from a breaker.

MattyB1983

iTrader: (51)

My estimate of between 10 and 15 grand was with you doing alot of the work.

Tidgy

was about to say i expect that is a bit on the scrimpy side, i'd budget 20k for drive in drive out. need to do the whole package, suspension, brakes etc etc

dakr

I know exactly which car this is, red, modified wagon. I owned it not long ago. It had a semi restoration but I don’t think some of the worst issues ever got fixed....

Hustlersalvage

If it’s a cdb it will have cross hatching on block.
Mines about 260 and I blew box with in 2 days of owning it. The last one I owned for just short of 315
and it had 2 boxes in 12 month. Definatky get a decent box!

Gills

Ok will definitely bear the box in mind then,

dakr,

you are correct it is it is that car, any chance of some details on the problems that never got sorted or what you know about the car.

would be much appreciated

Gills

Ok so an update so far,




after charging the battery and fitting fuel in I managed to get her started.




she runs a bit lumpy, with lots of smoke that smells of oil, oil is coming from the slip joint in the headers clarifying that it’s the right hand side as you look at the engine. Also oil coming from the turbo where the headers meet on the up pipe.




so thoughts so far is it’s going to be either piston rings or valve related so will need to strip and find exactly.




the car has nearly no power and doesn’t want to move so wondering if it’s more than 1 cylinder affected.




any thoughts on this would be appreciated guys or any other ways I can carry out the work without physically lifting the engine out would be useful as will probably create a build on standard internals if possible.




when you rev the car it doesn’t tap or knock, it taps on the come down from the revs

all inlet valves submerged in oil, surely all seals or piston rings on each cylinder can’t go at the same time?

This is girl a going to need some love and care