Hawkeye Buying Advice
#1
Hawkeye Buying Advice
Now that my classic resto has gone ****-up I'm mulling over the idea of chopping in my current A4 Avant and buying a newage (Hawkeye) as a daily driver, either a WRX STI Type UK or a GB270.
In the first instance, I am just looking for a little advice.
Are either of these car thought to be better than the other based on standard spec, more reliable etc? I assume the WRX STI Type UK will be a better spec than the GB270?
Are either plagued with known faults that I should look out for?
Thanks in advance.
In the first instance, I am just looking for a little advice.
Are either of these car thought to be better than the other based on standard spec, more reliable etc? I assume the WRX STI Type UK will be a better spec than the GB270?
Are either plagued with known faults that I should look out for?
Thanks in advance.
#2
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (6)
both STI & GB270 suffer headgasket issues - generally same failure issue as noted here
https://www.scoobynet.com/scoobynet-...-failures.html
Now before all the nay sayers jump in going ohhh no stay away from 2.5's point blank
these cars are now over 10yr old - plenty have been rebuilt/forged etc so do your homework and look for the right car
a 2.5 is a cracking daily driver car, i had a hawk sti, now a forged hatch sti used as my daily drivers for over 5yrs now
https://www.scoobynet.com/scoobynet-...-failures.html
Now before all the nay sayers jump in going ohhh no stay away from 2.5's point blank
these cars are now over 10yr old - plenty have been rebuilt/forged etc so do your homework and look for the right car
a 2.5 is a cracking daily driver car, i had a hawk sti, now a forged hatch sti used as my daily drivers for over 5yrs now
Last edited by Gambit; 25 July 2018 at 01:48 PM.
#3
Scooby Regular
Worth mentioning the secondary air pump system which will inevitably cause a problem at some point, unless it's already been addressed. Inevitably some component will fail ... usually sticking valves, although mine was the relay switch which got stuck in the open position, burned out the pump and left a valve partially open. Removal will require the error codes to be mapped out so be prepared for an ECUTek license fee if the car doesn't already have one.
#5
Scooby Regular
I had my pump remediation work done at Scoobyworld which included the cost of an ECUTek license, but the system is all still plumbed in, albeit with a knackered pump and custom blanking plate fitted to the valve which was slightly stuck open. I guess that's why I needed an ECUTek license then.
#6
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (20)
I had my pump remediation work done at Scoobyworld which included the cost of an ECUTek license, but the system is all still plumbed in, albeit with a knackered pump and custom blanking plate fitted to the valve which was slightly stuck open. I guess that's why I needed an ECUTek license then.
#7
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (6)
emissions stuff... its not needed for anything else, hence can be removed
if its been removed then generally the pump will be removed - black cylinder pump assembly sitting below the fuel reg/dampers
if its still running you can usually hear it running the pump for up to 30 seconds on startup
if its been removed then generally the pump will be removed - black cylinder pump assembly sitting below the fuel reg/dampers
if its still running you can usually hear it running the pump for up to 30 seconds on startup
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#8
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (3)
From memory the GB270 has the usual issue with knocking shocks and sticking callipers so watch out for those. Other than that it's the usual subaru check list. Make sure belts and rollers have been done, Check state of clutch, look for leaking rocker covers and radiator collapsing.
And check for rust. Radiator carrier is prone, as are sills and arches.
And check for rust. Radiator carrier is prone, as are sills and arches.
#9
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (20)
emissions stuff... its not needed for anything else, hence can be removed
if its been removed then generally the pump will be removed - black cylinder pump assembly sitting below the fuel reg/dampers
if its still running you can usually hear it running the pump for up to 30 seconds on startup
if its been removed then generally the pump will be removed - black cylinder pump assembly sitting below the fuel reg/dampers
if its still running you can usually hear it running the pump for up to 30 seconds on startup
#10
Scooby Regular
#13
Thanks all for your input.
I have been looking at a forged STI type uk, the work was done by Richard Henry in May this year but I have a feeling that due to the modifications that go along with the engine forging, insurance may be a limiting factor so ive been in touch with keith michaels to see what they can do.
🤞🏻
I have been looking at a forged STI type uk, the work was done by Richard Henry in May this year but I have a feeling that due to the modifications that go along with the engine forging, insurance may be a limiting factor so ive been in touch with keith michaels to see what they can do.
🤞🏻
#14
Scooby Regular
My advice is to buy an already forged one. Be sure to get as much proof, and even speak to the builder to see if they remember the car.
A decent seller will assist with this.
Listen for rear shocks knocking, they all do it.
Forged engines can be noisy when cold, but that's just cold piston slap - a trait of a slightly undersized forged piston to allow for heat expansion once hot.
Stay fairly local....he says...I'm from Hampshire but flew to Scotland to get mine, but there are some waste of time nails out there, it's just how it is.
Mine was a standard Spec D STi, and sure enough my HG's went, so I fully forged it.
342bhp and 410 ft lb makes for a cracking daily.
You can be lucky and get standard examples that are ok, but perhaps budget for some engine work.
I'd love to say my HG's never went, and a standard 2.5 if bulletproof.... but I can't.....I'm another Subaru victim in that respect.
A decent seller will assist with this.
Listen for rear shocks knocking, they all do it.
Forged engines can be noisy when cold, but that's just cold piston slap - a trait of a slightly undersized forged piston to allow for heat expansion once hot.
Stay fairly local....he says...I'm from Hampshire but flew to Scotland to get mine, but there are some waste of time nails out there, it's just how it is.
Mine was a standard Spec D STi, and sure enough my HG's went, so I fully forged it.
342bhp and 410 ft lb makes for a cracking daily.
You can be lucky and get standard examples that are ok, but perhaps budget for some engine work.
I'd love to say my HG's never went, and a standard 2.5 if bulletproof.... but I can't.....I'm another Subaru victim in that respect.
#15
My advice is to buy an already forged one. Be sure to get as much proof, and even speak to the builder to see if they remember the car.
A decent seller will assist with this.
Listen for rear shocks knocking, they all do it.
Forged engines can be noisy when cold, but that's just cold piston slap - a trait of a slightly undersized forged piston to allow for heat expansion once hot.
Stay fairly local....he says...I'm from Hampshire but flew to Scotland to get mine, but there are some waste of time nails out there, it's just how it is.
Mine was a standard Spec D STi, and sure enough my HG's went, so I fully forged it.
342bhp and 410 ft lb makes for a cracking daily.
You can be lucky and get standard examples that are ok, but perhaps budget for some engine work.
I'd love to say my HG's never went, and a standard 2.5 if bulletproof.... but I can't.....I'm another Subaru victim in that respect.
A decent seller will assist with this.
Listen for rear shocks knocking, they all do it.
Forged engines can be noisy when cold, but that's just cold piston slap - a trait of a slightly undersized forged piston to allow for heat expansion once hot.
Stay fairly local....he says...I'm from Hampshire but flew to Scotland to get mine, but there are some waste of time nails out there, it's just how it is.
Mine was a standard Spec D STi, and sure enough my HG's went, so I fully forged it.
342bhp and 410 ft lb makes for a cracking daily.
You can be lucky and get standard examples that are ok, but perhaps budget for some engine work.
I'd love to say my HG's never went, and a standard 2.5 if bulletproof.... but I can't.....I'm another Subaru victim in that respect.
The spec of the car is listed as:
Subaru Impreza STi UK Spec
2007 07 plate
Only 70,000 miles
Recent Forged £6,700 engine upgrade (May 2018) all reciepts
Done at the Uk,s leading Subaru Impreza Specialist (Richard Henry)
Upgraded intercooler
Brembo brakes
STi bucket seats
TGR alloy wheels
BC coilovers
Upgraded Turbo#
Bluetooth phone
ic water spray
New timing belt
Xenon lights
Performance exhaust
#16
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (20)
My advice is to buy an already forged one. Be sure to get as much proof, and even speak to the builder to see if they remember the car.
A decent seller will assist with this.
Listen for rear shocks knocking, they all do it.
Forged engines can be noisy when cold, but that's just cold piston slap - a trait of a slightly undersized forged piston to allow for heat expansion once hot.
Stay fairly local....he says...I'm from Hampshire but flew to Scotland to get mine, but there are some waste of time nails out there, it's just how it is.
Mine was a standard Spec D STi, and sure enough my HG's went, so I fully forged it.
342bhp and 410 ft lb makes for a cracking daily.
You can be lucky and get standard examples that are ok, but perhaps budget for some engine work.
I'd love to say my HG's never went, and a standard 2.5 if bulletproof.... but I can't.....I'm another Subaru victim in that respect.
A decent seller will assist with this.
Listen for rear shocks knocking, they all do it.
Forged engines can be noisy when cold, but that's just cold piston slap - a trait of a slightly undersized forged piston to allow for heat expansion once hot.
Stay fairly local....he says...I'm from Hampshire but flew to Scotland to get mine, but there are some waste of time nails out there, it's just how it is.
Mine was a standard Spec D STi, and sure enough my HG's went, so I fully forged it.
342bhp and 410 ft lb makes for a cracking daily.
You can be lucky and get standard examples that are ok, but perhaps budget for some engine work.
I'd love to say my HG's never went, and a standard 2.5 if bulletproof.... but I can't.....I'm another Subaru victim in that respect.
#17
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Join Date: May 2018
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My two cents as a Scooby Newbie: my Spec D STi (2.5) is a great daily drive. Mine's had the mother of all filter and fluid services, new rubber all round, undersealing, and a little vagazzle with an access port.
I would recommend advancing the idle, and upping the e-throttle sensitivity. At least - mine was flat and not very responsive until I had a tweak - and now she's really urgent, and quite a handful in second on roundabouts. Upping the psi also makes for easy extra fun.
I have the 'Gucci' spec: 2006 sat-nav (a total joke), leather seats, DCCD, air-con, Bluetooth.
Ready for lots of summer fun as a family car...with benefits.
I would recommend advancing the idle, and upping the e-throttle sensitivity. At least - mine was flat and not very responsive until I had a tweak - and now she's really urgent, and quite a handful in second on roundabouts. Upping the psi also makes for easy extra fun.
I have the 'Gucci' spec: 2006 sat-nav (a total joke), leather seats, DCCD, air-con, Bluetooth.
Ready for lots of summer fun as a family car...with benefits.
#18
Scooby Regular
Build was :
ACL bearings
Manley rods
Mahle pistons
Cosworth gaskets
ARP head studs
ACT clutch
Secondary air pump delete
Mocal catch can - very nicely welded piece, and sits right where the air pump was.
No turbo work, standard turbo / air box intake. Still on standard TMIC.
I think the magic was from a very good strong build by Len Carlyon at Subaru 4 You in Newbury, and a Bob Rawle map.
Put those two guys together, and you have a fantastic fast road car.
Last edited by Hawkeye D; 25 July 2018 at 06:32 PM.
#19
Scooby Regular
#20
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (20)
Build was :
ACL bearings
Manley rods
Mahle pistons
Cosworth gaskets
ARP head studs
ACT clutch
No turbo work, standard turbo / air box intake. Still on standard TMIC.
I think the magic was from a very good strong build by Len Carlyon at Subaru 4 You in Newbury, and a Bob Rawle map.
Put those two guys together, and you have a fantastic fast road car.
ACL bearings
Manley rods
Mahle pistons
Cosworth gaskets
ARP head studs
ACT clutch
No turbo work, standard turbo / air box intake. Still on standard TMIC.
I think the magic was from a very good strong build by Len Carlyon at Subaru 4 You in Newbury, and a Bob Rawle map.
Put those two guys together, and you have a fantastic fast road car.
#25
Scooby Regular
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