2.5 forge build cost
#6
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I've seen forged kits for around £1500 then add gaskets,oil pump,belt kit etc.... so £3k ish
Then the blockwork will take it to around 4k,As tidgy says,also depends on your block condition,plus any head work you might want doing.
500bhp+
Then the blockwork will take it to around 4k,As tidgy says,also depends on your block condition,plus any head work you might want doing.
500bhp+
Last edited by ossett2k2; 18 March 2018 at 01:45 PM.
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#9
Scooby Regular
I used Andy Williams for my 2.1 closed deck, but we did discuss a 2.5 at one point which was around the same price (£4500 short block).
Everyone thats worked on the car has praised the engine build and its performance, done 2000+ miles with no problems, no leaks or oil use etc.
Everyone thats worked on the car has praised the engine build and its performance, done 2000+ miles with no problems, no leaks or oil use etc.
#10
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I used Andy Williams for my 2.1 closed deck, but we did discuss a 2.5 at one point which was around the same price (£4500 short block).
Everyone thats worked on the car has praised the engine build and its performance, done 2000+ miles with no problems, no leaks or oil use etc.
Everyone thats worked on the car has praised the engine build and its performance, done 2000+ miles with no problems, no leaks or oil use etc.
Was the price for engine remove and refit and Inc belts,gasket etc?
I'm still looking at my build options.
#12
Scooby Regular
My understanding is that a 2.5 closed deck is via AS closed deck inserts.
That was the price for a finished block, not remove/refit. Friend of mine added the heads/cambelt etc and refitted for me.
#13
Consider this ...
Wisdom would say have you considered sourcing a 2.2 Cdb and spending money on that. The 2.5 heads etc fit nice plus use the 2.5 crank for 2.35 lt.
TBH a far superior engine. Don’t waste your hard earned cash with a 2.5 with inserts or liners. Id even choose a 2.1 over the 2.5 but your heads don’t fit.
NB. I spent a lot of money on a ‘built’ 2.5 that lasted 42,000 before chewing a bearing and destroying the engine. They really are Crap design/ blocks that really should be kept to 400bhp max ...
TBH a far superior engine. Don’t waste your hard earned cash with a 2.5 with inserts or liners. Id even choose a 2.1 over the 2.5 but your heads don’t fit.
NB. I spent a lot of money on a ‘built’ 2.5 that lasted 42,000 before chewing a bearing and destroying the engine. They really are Crap design/ blocks that really should be kept to 400bhp max ...
#14
Scooby Regular
Wisdom would say have you considered sourcing a 2.2 Cdb and spending money on that. The 2.5 heads etc fit nice plus use the 2.5 crank for 2.35 lt.
TBH a far superior engine. Don’t waste your hard earned cash with a 2.5 with inserts or liners. Id even choose a 2.1 over the 2.5 but your heads don’t fit.
NB. I spent a lot of money on a ‘built’ 2.5 that lasted 42,000 before chewing a bearing and destroying the engine. They really are Crap design/ blocks that really should be kept to 400bhp max ...
TBH a far superior engine. Don’t waste your hard earned cash with a 2.5 with inserts or liners. Id even choose a 2.1 over the 2.5 but your heads don’t fit.
NB. I spent a lot of money on a ‘built’ 2.5 that lasted 42,000 before chewing a bearing and destroying the engine. They really are Crap design/ blocks that really should be kept to 400bhp max ...
#15
Yep
In hindsight I wish I’d put my money into a 2.35 from the off - a far wiser investment into a far superior engine. But was foolishly tempted by the claims of many to make the 2.5 ‘safe & secure’ upto 500bhp. I wonder how many have run another 40-50,000 miles trouble free ?
Mark @ Lateral hit the nail firmly on the head when he said (something akin) 2.5 - spend a little & call 400 the safe limit. If you want over 400 invest in something better ie 2.35 and use your 2.5 bits. Really WISE advice looking back.
NB. Not a 2.5 hater at all. Just now know it wasn’t the best route considering all the money spent.
Selah.
Last edited by Apostle; 20 March 2018 at 10:00 AM.
#16
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Serious question here:
Which would be the stronger block,a 2.5 which has been full closed decked or a 2.2 cdb which has been bored out to 2.35?
I was thinking the 2.5
Oh and just to throw another option in there,how about a 2.5 made into a 2.35?
Which would be the stronger block,a 2.5 which has been full closed decked or a 2.2 cdb which has been bored out to 2.35?
I was thinking the 2.5
Oh and just to throw another option in there,how about a 2.5 made into a 2.35?
Last edited by ossett2k2; 20 March 2018 at 10:17 AM.
#17
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The 2.2 block will be much stronger due to actually having some bore wall thickness, compared to the wafer thin 2.5.
A 2.5 block de stroked to 2.35, is a backward step as your are keeping the weakest link, you may as well keep it 2.5 for the extra torque, it will be no weaker for it.
A 2.5 block de stroked to 2.35, is a backward step as your are keeping the weakest link, you may as well keep it 2.5 for the extra torque, it will be no weaker for it.
#18
But... from what I read the OP here is on the beginning of a slippery slope into an ongoing engine build plus mods to follow on (as we all have done).
In hindsight I wish I’d put my money into a 2.35 from the off - a far wiser investment into a far superior engine. But was foolishly tempted by the claims of many to make the 2.5 ‘safe & secure’ upto 500bhp. I wonder how many have run another 40-50,000 miles trouble free ?
Mark @ Lateral hit the nail firmly on the head when he said (something akin) 2.5 - spend a little & call 400 the safe limit. If you want over 400 invest in something better ie 2.35 and use your 2.5 bits. Really WISE advice looking back.
NB. Not a 2.5 hater at all. Just now know it wasn’t the best route considering all the money spent.
Selah.
I have been down the route of chasing numbers on my 2litre ones running
Mdx321t trying to get 450bhp wasted the car seems laggy till 4300rpm
#19
Scooby Regular
So sticking with the 2.5 (I have a 2017) will it safely run high 300s and cost say under 8K to rebuild it.
Would it make sense to do the work before the engine went? Would it save on damage repair costs?
Haven't decided if I'm keeping it long term but if I do I would like a little bit more poke out of it.
Would it make sense to do the work before the engine went? Would it save on damage repair costs?
Haven't decided if I'm keeping it long term but if I do I would like a little bit more poke out of it.
#20
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (9)
The 2.2 block will be much stronger due to actually having some bore wall thickness, compared to the wafer thin 2.5.
A 2.5 block de stroked to 2.35, is a backward step as your are keeping the weakest link, you may as well keep it 2.5 for the extra torque, it will be no weaker for it.
A 2.5 block de stroked to 2.35, is a backward step as your are keeping the weakest link, you may as well keep it 2.5 for the extra torque, it will be no weaker for it.
I don't want to drift too off topic but I know the ej207 scdb comes in standard or thick wall variant,I'm guessing the ej257 doesn't come in both?
Would a thick wall 207 be a better option for 2.1 stroker if cdb'd and is it possible to stroke to 2.35?
#22
Scooby Regular
But... from what I read the OP here is on the beginning of a slippery slope into an ongoing engine build plus mods to follow on (as we all have done).
In hindsight I wish I’d put my money into a 2.35 from the off - a far wiser investment into a far superior engine. But was foolishly tempted by the claims of many to make the 2.5 ‘safe & secure’ upto 500bhp. I wonder how many have run another 40-50,000 miles trouble free ?
Mark @ Lateral hit the nail firmly on the head when he said (something akin) 2.5 - spend a little & call 400 the safe limit. If you want over 400 invest in something better ie 2.35 and use your 2.5 bits. Really WISE advice looking back.
NB. Not a 2.5 hater at all. Just now know it wasn’t the best route considering all the money spent.
Selah.
that said how many rebuilt subaru engines of any size that get tuned to over 500 are out there with over 50k on them?
Last edited by Tidgy; 20 March 2018 at 02:29 PM.
#25
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give andy willimas a ring down in north wales , really nice guy with lots of advice ..
all he does is build Scooby engines 07917 204738 tell hi rich from fflat4 gave you his number
all he does is build Scooby engines 07917 204738 tell hi rich from fflat4 gave you his number
#27
Scooby Regular
The 2.35 short engine is £8250. I didn’t enquire about the 2.5 so I can’t comment. A 2.1 with a good donor engine to 400bhp was coming in around £3500, can double it if your after 450+bhp. Obviously these are not fixed prices and was discussed privately so really for anything concrete you need approach them. But it gives you a steer I guess.
#28
Engine now getting put back together by Steve whitson of swmotorsport performance engines
Nitrided 2.5 crankshaft
Mahle custom 4032 pistons
close decking
Clevite race bearings
bore/ hone
gasket kit
skim casings
skim heads
11mm uprated oil pump
Manley rods with 625 bolts
ARP studs,
Cosworth head gaskets
Timing belt
oil/filter
face valves
face seats
water pump
Nitrided 2.5 crankshaft
Mahle custom 4032 pistons
close decking
Clevite race bearings
bore/ hone
gasket kit
skim casings
skim heads
11mm uprated oil pump
Manley rods with 625 bolts
ARP studs,
Cosworth head gaskets
Timing belt
oil/filter
face valves
face seats
water pump
Last edited by peter zippy reid; 21 June 2018 at 11:05 PM.
#29
Scooby Regular
What’s that coming in at Zippy? Also what BHP you looking for? I know you previously commented your not chasing numbers but you may have a figure in mind. Hope it all goes swimmingly though. Sounds well thought out.