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2.5 forge build cost
Hi how much roughly is a forge build with closed decking done on a 2.5 my hatch sti has ringland issue cheers
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Go see Paul finch Finch Motorsport. Top man. !!!!!!!!!
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Depends on what spec you want and who's building it?
DIY 4k+ PRO 6k+ Could save a few more quid and get it under 4k if you buy 2nd hand |
If the damage is bad price can go up very rapidly.
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Originally Posted by ossett2k2
(Post 12000732)
Depends on what spec you want and who's building it?
DIY 4k+ PRO 6k+ Could save a few more quid and get it under 4k if you buy 2nd hand |
I've seen forged kits for around £1500 then add gaskets,oil pump,belt kit etc.... so £3k ish
Then the blockwork will take it to around 4k,As tidgy says,also depends on your block condition,plus any head work you might want doing. 500bhp+ |
Peter give Steve Whitson or Duncan at Hypertech a bell they will give you price .
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Originally Posted by scotty75
(Post 12000818)
Peter give Steve Whitson or Duncan at Hypertech a bell they will give you price .
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I used Andy Williams for my 2.1 closed deck, but we did discuss a 2.5 at one point which was around the same price (£4500 short block).
Everyone thats worked on the car has praised the engine build and its performance, done 2000+ miles with no problems, no leaks or oil use etc. |
Originally Posted by rickybobby
(Post 12000842)
I used Andy Williams for my 2.1 closed deck, but we did discuss a 2.5 at one point which was around the same price (£4500 short block).
Everyone thats worked on the car has praised the engine build and its performance, done 2000+ miles with no problems, no leaks or oil use etc. Was the price for engine remove and refit and Inc belts,gasket etc? I'm still looking at my build options. |
I thought william motorsport were pinned blocks
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Originally Posted by ossett2k2
(Post 12000848)
Did this price include the cdb or cdb inserts?
Was the price for engine remove and refit and Inc belts,gasket etc? I'm still looking at my build options. My understanding is that a 2.5 closed deck is via AS closed deck inserts. That was the price for a finished block, not remove/refit. Friend of mine added the heads/cambelt etc and refitted for me. |
Consider this ...
Wisdom would say have you considered sourcing a 2.2 Cdb and spending money on that. The 2.5 heads etc fit nice plus use the 2.5 crank for 2.35 lt. TBH a far superior engine. Don’t waste your hard earned cash with a 2.5 with inserts or liners. Id even choose a 2.1 over the 2.5 but your heads don’t fit. NB. I spent a lot of money on a ‘built’ 2.5 that lasted 42,000 before chewing a bearing and destroying the engine. They really are Crap design/ blocks that really should be kept to 400bhp max ... |
Originally Posted by Apostle
(Post 12001091)
Wisdom would say have you considered sourcing a 2.2 Cdb and spending money on that. The 2.5 heads etc fit nice plus use the 2.5 crank for 2.35 lt. TBH a far superior engine. Don’t waste your hard earned cash with a 2.5 with inserts or liners. Id even choose a 2.1 over the 2.5 but your heads don’t fit. NB. I spent a lot of money on a ‘built’ 2.5 that lasted 42,000 before chewing a bearing and destroying the engine. They really are Crap design/ blocks that really should be kept to 400bhp max ... |
Yep
Originally Posted by Tidgy
(Post 12001100)
plenty of rebuilt 2.5's running mid 400's and over 500 that havn't had issues.
In hindsight I wish I’d put my money into a 2.35 from the off - a far wiser investment into a far superior engine. But was foolishly tempted by the claims of many to make the 2.5 ‘safe & secure’ upto 500bhp. I wonder how many have run another 40-50,000 miles trouble free ? Mark @ Lateral hit the nail firmly on the head when he said (something akin) 2.5 - spend a little & call 400 the safe limit. If you want over 400 invest in something better ie 2.35 and use your 2.5 bits. Really WISE advice looking back. NB. Not a 2.5 hater at all. Just now know it wasn’t the best route considering all the money spent. Selah. |
Serious question here:
Which would be the stronger block,a 2.5 which has been full closed decked or a 2.2 cdb which has been bored out to 2.35? I was thinking the 2.5 :wonder: Oh and just to throw another option in there,how about a 2.5 made into a 2.35? |
The 2.2 block will be much stronger due to actually having some bore wall thickness, compared to the wafer thin 2.5.
A 2.5 block de stroked to 2.35, is a backward step as your are keeping the weakest link, you may as well keep it 2.5 for the extra torque, it will be no weaker for it. |
Originally Posted by Apostle
(Post 12001103)
But... from what I read the OP here is on the beginning of a slippery slope into an ongoing engine build plus mods to follow on (as we all have done). In hindsight I wish I’d put my money into a 2.35 from the off - a far wiser investment into a far superior engine. But was foolishly tempted by the claims of many to make the 2.5 ‘safe & secure’ upto 500bhp. I wonder how many have run another 40-50,000 miles trouble free ? Mark @ Lateral hit the nail firmly on the head when he said (something akin) 2.5 - spend a little & call 400 the safe limit. If you want over 400 invest in something better ie 2.35 and use your 2.5 bits. Really WISE advice looking back. NB. Not a 2.5 hater at all. Just now know it wasn’t the best route considering all the money spent. Selah. I have been down the route of chasing numbers on my 2litre ones running Mdx321t trying to get 450bhp wasted the car seems laggy till 4300rpm |
So sticking with the 2.5 (I have a 2017) will it safely run high 300s and cost say under 8K to rebuild it.
Would it make sense to do the work before the engine went? Would it save on damage repair costs? Haven't decided if I'm keeping it long term but if I do I would like a little bit more poke out of it. |
Originally Posted by MOTORS S GT
(Post 12001113)
The 2.2 block will be much stronger due to actually having some bore wall thickness, compared to the wafer thin 2.5.
A 2.5 block de stroked to 2.35, is a backward step as your are keeping the weakest link, you may as well keep it 2.5 for the extra torque, it will be no weaker for it. I don't want to drift too off topic but I know the ej207 scdb comes in standard or thick wall variant,I'm guessing the ej257 doesn't come in both? Would a thick wall 207 be a better option for 2.1 stroker if cdb'd and is it possible to stroke to 2.35? |
The 2.0 thick wall block only has more material support around the liner, the liner thickness is the same as any 2.0, I think you would struggle to stroke a 2.0 92mm bore to 2.35.
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Originally Posted by Apostle
(Post 12001103)
But... from what I read the OP here is on the beginning of a slippery slope into an ongoing engine build plus mods to follow on (as we all have done). In hindsight I wish I’d put my money into a 2.35 from the off - a far wiser investment into a far superior engine. But was foolishly tempted by the claims of many to make the 2.5 ‘safe & secure’ upto 500bhp. I wonder how many have run another 40-50,000 miles trouble free ? Mark @ Lateral hit the nail firmly on the head when he said (something akin) 2.5 - spend a little & call 400 the safe limit. If you want over 400 invest in something better ie 2.35 and use your 2.5 bits. Really WISE advice looking back. NB. Not a 2.5 hater at all. Just now know it wasn’t the best route considering all the money spent. Selah. that said how many rebuilt subaru engines of any size that get tuned to over 500 are out there with over 50k on them? |
Originally Posted by MOTORS S GT
(Post 12001149)
The 2.0 thick wall block only has more material support around the liner, the liner thickness is the same as any 2.0, I think you would struggle to stroke a 2.0 92mm bore to 2.35.
So both variants of the ej207 would be equally as strong with cdb inserts and stroked to 2.1? |
Paul Finch currently has available “forged 2.5, & a big spec 2.35 short motor, with Arrow crank, Carrillo rods, Omega pistons etc” as I asked last night. |
give andy willimas a ring down in north wales , really nice guy with lots of advice ..
all he does is build Scooby engines 07917 204738 tell hi rich from fflat4 gave you his number |
Originally Posted by R666ORY+1
(Post 12001160)
Paul Finch currently has available “forged 2.5, & a big spec 2.35 short motor, with Arrow crank, Carrillo rods, Omega pistons etc” as I asked last night. |
Originally Posted by S744hdv
(Post 12001305)
What are the prices for these?
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Engine now getting put back together by Steve whitson of swmotorsport performance engines
Nitrided 2.5 crankshaft Mahle custom 4032 pistons close decking Clevite race bearings bore/ hone gasket kit skim casings skim heads 11mm uprated oil pump Manley rods with 625 bolts ARP studs, Cosworth head gaskets Timing belt oil/filter face valves face seats water pump https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.sco...df0be2d46.jpeg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.sco...369d70987.jpeg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.sco...8735eff85.jpeg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.sco...1e3124217.jpeg |
What’s that coming in at Zippy? Also what BHP you looking for? I know you previously commented your not chasing numbers but you may have a figure in mind. Hope it all goes swimmingly though. Sounds well thought out. |
Originally Posted by R666ORY+1
(Post 12014961)
What’s that coming in at Zippy? Also what BHP you looking for? I know you previously commented your not chasing numbers but you may have a figure in mind. Hope it all goes swimmingly though. Sounds well thought out. |
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