Lowering springs, what would you choose
#1
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Thread Starter
Lowering springs, what would you choose
I asked the question in the suspension forum recently but I don't think many people use it so I'll ask in here.
I have added some 18" wheels from a hatch to my JDM blob and now want to lower it a little but am unsure on spring choice.
Has anyone had experience of Tein S-Tech or Whiteline springs? Or would it be worth the extra paying for Eibach Pro-Kit springs?
I just don't want a horrible hard and bouncy ride.
Also, what sort of price would be reasonable for a specialist to fit them?
Might also paint the wheels black -but that's for another day.
Thanks
#3
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (6)
his car up to him what he does...plenty of people change their suspension without altering the roll centre...it'll only increase roll if the drop is substantial enough to drop it below where wishbones/LCA being level
H&R would be my choice..i would avoid the Eibach they are far too soft a spring imo, had them then removed after 2weeks and fitted the H&R's
my old spec D sat this height on 18's and H&R's
H&R would be my choice..i would avoid the Eibach they are far too soft a spring imo, had them then removed after 2weeks and fitted the H&R's
my old spec D sat this height on 18's and H&R's
#4
Scooby Regular
Ask 2pot on here mate he’s the man for all the suspension info and he can supply all bits you need if not the link to get it
#5
Scooby Regular
Very nice example looks nice as is imo
How bout changing tyre wall this will fill arch gaps and alloys look wider
235 45 18 at a guess maybe?
How bout changing tyre wall this will fill arch gaps and alloys look wider
235 45 18 at a guess maybe?
#6
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
Cheers Zany
The photos make it look a little lower than it looks when you're next to it, I think its the way its parked in one pic as the opposite side is up on the kerb.
Tyres are 245 40 18 and I'd rather not get higher sidewalls and would prefer to bring the car down, even if its only 10 or 15mm. Other problem I am finding is websites show their springs as being suitable for WRX and STI and then show approx. drop of Xmm. Well, the STI is already lower than the WRX so the figures shown won't be right, No idea why they cant just sell a model specific spring and show the amount of drop.
You still got that DV for sale?
The photos make it look a little lower than it looks when you're next to it, I think its the way its parked in one pic as the opposite side is up on the kerb.
Tyres are 245 40 18 and I'd rather not get higher sidewalls and would prefer to bring the car down, even if its only 10 or 15mm. Other problem I am finding is websites show their springs as being suitable for WRX and STI and then show approx. drop of Xmm. Well, the STI is already lower than the WRX so the figures shown won't be right, No idea why they cant just sell a model specific spring and show the amount of drop.
You still got that DV for sale?
Last edited by Jay kay; 22 January 2018 at 03:46 PM.
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#9
Scooby Regular
Cheers Zany
The photos make it look a little lower than it looks when you're next to it, I think its the way its parked in one pic as the opposite side is up on the kerb.
Tyres are 245 40 18 and I'd rather not get higher sidewalls and would prefer to bring the car down, even if its only 10 or 15mm. Other problem I am finding is websites show their springs as being suitable for WRX and STI and then show approx. drop of Xmm. Well, the STI is already lower than the WRX so the figures shown won't be right, No idea why they cant just sell a model specific spring and show the amount of drop.
Tein springs are a lot harsher than the prodrive rb320 springs I had on genuine struts drove really nice I understand what you mean by the drop of the car the black springs were perfect really good local and B roads a plsasure
till I sourced the rb320 setup which was a little better in the B roads but same comfort on local
You still got that DV for sale?
The photos make it look a little lower than it looks when you're next to it, I think its the way its parked in one pic as the opposite side is up on the kerb.
Tyres are 245 40 18 and I'd rather not get higher sidewalls and would prefer to bring the car down, even if its only 10 or 15mm. Other problem I am finding is websites show their springs as being suitable for WRX and STI and then show approx. drop of Xmm. Well, the STI is already lower than the WRX so the figures shown won't be right, No idea why they cant just sell a model specific spring and show the amount of drop.
Tein springs are a lot harsher than the prodrive rb320 springs I had on genuine struts drove really nice I understand what you mean by the drop of the car the black springs were perfect really good local and B roads a plsasure
till I sourced the rb320 setup which was a little better in the B roads but same comfort on local
You still got that DV for sale?
Im in and out of hospitals this month so can’t post or do anything
hopefully I’ll get my shed sorted by next month way too much clutter in there I need to sort out take pics and flea bay properly if you see it on there give us a buzz and I’ll sort you scabbynet brotherly discount out
Mrs still not seen the bbs alloys yet but I have a plan
#10
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (3)
First thing, is measure your current ride heights - wheel centre vertically up to the metal arch (not the plastic liner).
Your wheel centre is difficult to get at, so do it like this:
Hook the tape on the wheel rim nearest the ground. Measure vertically upwards, across the wheel centre, to the metal arch = x
Then, hook a tape on the wheel rim, measure across the wheel centre to the outer edge of the rim, on the opposite side of the wheel - divide this measurement by 2 = y (y is, obviously, the same on all 4 wheels).
x minus y = ride heights
There will probably be a 5mm, side to side, ride height difference - this is normal.
If you start going under 360mm front height, the front splitter becomes vulnerable and you'll have very limited bump travel.
If you do lower the front, a roll centre kit will help - Whiteline kca313 or Superpro trc0002
If you lower the front, you'll also need to change the front, internal, 60mm bumpstops or you'll be running on them all the time = understeer + poor ride.
You'll probably need Whiteline kca335 off-set front top mounts to run more front camber 1deg 45mins - 2deg.
Changing the soft, rear, bumpstops is also beneficial.
Does the rear need to be lower? 355-365mm is good, as perRB320
Your current spring rates are progressive. Max f223lb/in r195/lb/in. But, at ride-height, they are 217lb/in 171lb/in
Lowering will mean increasing the spring rates.
HTH
Your wheel centre is difficult to get at, so do it like this:
Hook the tape on the wheel rim nearest the ground. Measure vertically upwards, across the wheel centre, to the metal arch = x
Then, hook a tape on the wheel rim, measure across the wheel centre to the outer edge of the rim, on the opposite side of the wheel - divide this measurement by 2 = y (y is, obviously, the same on all 4 wheels).
x minus y = ride heights
There will probably be a 5mm, side to side, ride height difference - this is normal.
If you start going under 360mm front height, the front splitter becomes vulnerable and you'll have very limited bump travel.
If you do lower the front, a roll centre kit will help - Whiteline kca313 or Superpro trc0002
If you lower the front, you'll also need to change the front, internal, 60mm bumpstops or you'll be running on them all the time = understeer + poor ride.
You'll probably need Whiteline kca335 off-set front top mounts to run more front camber 1deg 45mins - 2deg.
Changing the soft, rear, bumpstops is also beneficial.
Does the rear need to be lower? 355-365mm is good, as perRB320
Your current spring rates are progressive. Max f223lb/in r195/lb/in. But, at ride-height, they are 217lb/in 171lb/in
Lowering will mean increasing the spring rates.
HTH
Last edited by 2pot; 23 January 2018 at 07:13 PM.
#12
Springs
From experience I’ve always found the Eibach springs ‘hard n’ bouncy’ - totally killing off the little bit of comfort you have. Unfortunately often the H&R or Whitelines are worse... 🙃
I think you need a set of the Subaru Prodrive springs or the Tein S ‘road’ springs.
Best “road” spring IMO would be RCE yellows from RallySportDirect online USA. THESE COST MORE THAN THE REST FOR A REASON. Well developed and extensively tested. These will come to your door in 7 working days.
The key is to make it better .. looking and handling without destroying “the ride”. Professionally fitted will cost £2-300 approx plus a four wheel fast road alignment @ £80
approx.
A slighlty larger rear arb (with braces) would be enough to make a difference. SuperPro are the best quality out there. (Whiteline products are now outsourced to cheap Asia factories and the quality is not what it used to be).
NB. If your cars done more than 60k the shocks will be giving a poor ride. Cheap Spax replacements or expensive Bilstein. Fitting stiffer springs will highlight worn shocks and you’re feel every crash and bang 😬
Go for it ✅
I think you need a set of the Subaru Prodrive springs or the Tein S ‘road’ springs.
Best “road” spring IMO would be RCE yellows from RallySportDirect online USA. THESE COST MORE THAN THE REST FOR A REASON. Well developed and extensively tested. These will come to your door in 7 working days.
The key is to make it better .. looking and handling without destroying “the ride”. Professionally fitted will cost £2-300 approx plus a four wheel fast road alignment @ £80
approx.
A slighlty larger rear arb (with braces) would be enough to make a difference. SuperPro are the best quality out there. (Whiteline products are now outsourced to cheap Asia factories and the quality is not what it used to be).
NB. If your cars done more than 60k the shocks will be giving a poor ride. Cheap Spax replacements or expensive Bilstein. Fitting stiffer springs will highlight worn shocks and you’re feel every crash and bang 😬
Go for it ✅
#13
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (3)
From experience I’ve always found the Eibach springs ‘hard n’ bouncy’ - totally killing off the little bit of comfort you have. Unfortunately often the H&R or Whitelines are worse... ��
I think you need a set of the Subaru Prodrive springs or the Tein S ‘road’ springs.
Best “road” spring IMO would be RCE yellows from RallySportDirect online USA. THESE COST MORE THAN THE REST FOR A REASON. Well developed and extensively tested. These will come to your door in 7 working days.
The key is to make it better .. looking and handling without destroying “the ride”. Professionally fitted will cost £2-300 approx plus a four wheel fast road alignment @ £80
approx.
A slighlty larger rear arb (with braces) would be enough to make a difference. SuperPro are the best quality out there. (Whiteline products are now outsourced to cheap Asia factories and the quality is not what it used to be).
NB. If your cars done more than 60k the shocks will be giving a poor ride. Cheap Spax replacements or expensive Bilstein. Fitting stiffer springs will highlight worn shocks and you’re feel every crash and bang ��
Go for it ✅
I think you need a set of the Subaru Prodrive springs or the Tein S ‘road’ springs.
Best “road” spring IMO would be RCE yellows from RallySportDirect online USA. THESE COST MORE THAN THE REST FOR A REASON. Well developed and extensively tested. These will come to your door in 7 working days.
The key is to make it better .. looking and handling without destroying “the ride”. Professionally fitted will cost £2-300 approx plus a four wheel fast road alignment @ £80
approx.
A slighlty larger rear arb (with braces) would be enough to make a difference. SuperPro are the best quality out there. (Whiteline products are now outsourced to cheap Asia factories and the quality is not what it used to be).
NB. If your cars done more than 60k the shocks will be giving a poor ride. Cheap Spax replacements or expensive Bilstein. Fitting stiffer springs will highlight worn shocks and you’re feel every crash and bang ��
Go for it ✅
Imo RCE yellow's are too stiff for a road spring - 295/275lb/in.
They were designed as an autox spring and will, understandably, wear stock dampers more quickly.
The version one rce yellow, occasionally, suffered front coil bind, so were re-designed with one less front coil. RCE blacks are slightly higher and softer 285/269lb/in
Spring costs relate to quantity manufactured.
The red S05/D5/001 Prodrive 05-07 sti springs, if you could find a set, would drop 18mm front and 8mm rear - 234/223lb/in. Came with shorter, more progressive, front bump stops.
Or, I've specified an STI set, Eibach-made WA/A2, linear in their operational range 245/223lb/in - 25mm lower at front, no drop at the rear.
Last edited by 2pot; 23 January 2018 at 11:40 AM.
#18
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (1)
If you are happy with how the car rides, then to increase turn in, it maybe as simple as tweaking your alignment: adding some more neg camber and castor at the front. Or merely tyre pressures.
Changing springs/shocks/ARBs etc are all going to have effects across the board - what you gain in one area, you may well lose in another.
Changing springs/shocks/ARBs etc are all going to have effects across the board - what you gain in one area, you may well lose in another.
#20
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I asked the question in the suspension forum recently but I don't think many people use it so I'll ask in here.
I have added some 18" wheels from a hatch to my JDM blob and now want to lower it a little but am unsure on spring choice.
Has anyone had experience of Tein S-Tech or Whiteline springs? Or would it be worth the extra paying for Eibach Pro-Kit springs?
I just don't want a horrible hard and bouncy ride.
Also, what sort of price would be reasonable for a specialist to fit them?
Might also paint the wheels black -but that's for another day.
Thanks
similar. These don't lower the car much but give a nice, firmer ride, still with oem feel.
#21
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
2pot,
I've found a set of red prodrive springs but they are S03/D5/001 and not the newer S05 springs you mention. I believe the S03 is a slightly softer spring but i'm not sure if they fit on widetrack cars. What's your opinion on these?
Thanks to everyone for your input.
#22
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (3)
2pot,
I've found a set of red prodrive springs but they are S03/D5/001 and not the newer S05 springs you mention. I believe the S03 is a slightly softer spring but i'm not sure if they fit on widetrack cars. What's your opinion on these?
Thanks to everyone for your input.
I've found a set of red prodrive springs but they are S03/D5/001 and not the newer S05 springs you mention. I believe the S03 is a slightly softer spring but i'm not sure if they fit on widetrack cars. What's your opinion on these?
Thanks to everyone for your input.
What are you current wheel centre to arch measurements?
#23
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (3)
If you're still in the spring market? The wa/a2 springs + bump stops, are now at Eibach UK, just waiting for the protective sheathing for the dead coils.
Same ride height at the rear, as a new '07 STI saloon (5mm lower on a wagon), 25mm lower at the front, than a new '07 STI saloon.
The rear springs use bug rear top mounts - improves the spring design.
Same ride height at the rear, as a new '07 STI saloon (5mm lower on a wagon), 25mm lower at the front, than a new '07 STI saloon.
The rear springs use bug rear top mounts - improves the spring design.
#25
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (3)
They're made for use with blob and hawk (saloon and wagon). But, because of the rear spring design, you use bug rear top mounts - bug rear top mounts fit the blob/hawk chassis as well.
They use these top rear rubber isolators, with the rear bug top mounts:
Subaru Impreza 92-00 Rear Upper Spring Rubber Isolator
They use these top rear rubber isolators, with the rear bug top mounts:
Subaru Impreza 92-00 Rear Upper Spring Rubber Isolator
Last edited by 2pot; 23 April 2018 at 01:51 PM.
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