Forge actuator boost?
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Forge actuator boost?
Recently purchased a new forge actuator for my vf37
Its currently mapped to 1.5 bar of boost!
Now my question is will the spring that comes in the forge actuator hold 1.5 bar of boost or will i have to buy a different spring??
Thanks in advance
Its currently mapped to 1.5 bar of boost!
Now my question is will the spring that comes in the forge actuator hold 1.5 bar of boost or will i have to buy a different spring??
Thanks in advance
#2
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From what I've read, most actuators are 1 bar then the boost controller/restrictor pill allow it to open later.
1st thing to do is bolt it on and try it. Make sure you put it on with enough tension to keep the wastegate shut tight. You usually bolt it on then have the hole in the end about half way over the pin, so you need a mitivac or grips to get it onto the arm (assuming its an adjustable arm)
1st thing to do is bolt it on and try it. Make sure you put it on with enough tension to keep the wastegate shut tight. You usually bolt it on then have the hole in the end about half way over the pin, so you need a mitivac or grips to get it onto the arm (assuming its an adjustable arm)
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That's interesting Brad - I've got a VF37 as well.
What was the reason for buying a new actuator? - Also do you have any idea how much power you're making at 1.5 bar?
What was the reason for buying a new actuator? - Also do you have any idea how much power you're making at 1.5 bar?
Last edited by Lee_; 14 August 2015 at 10:25 PM.
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Hi lee
I have an annoying rattle on the oe actuator, was told by duncan graham to get a forge one!
Car was mapped by duncan last month at rcm
Ill upload the dyno graph for you mate
I have an annoying rattle on the oe actuator, was told by duncan graham to get a forge one!
Car was mapped by duncan last month at rcm
Ill upload the dyno graph for you mate
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To be honest not really, dont get me wrong the car feels fast but i want a bigger turbo!
Current mods are
H&s downpipe
Full 3" exhaust system
Japspeed fmic
K&n cone
3 port boost solenoid
Cdf lightweight pulleys
Uprated turbo intake pipe
Remap
Yes Ian thats what duncan told me, he was shocked! He even had to check the turbo to make sure it was still a vf37
Current mods are
H&s downpipe
Full 3" exhaust system
Japspeed fmic
K&n cone
3 port boost solenoid
Cdf lightweight pulleys
Uprated turbo intake pipe
Remap
Yes Ian thats what duncan told me, he was shocked! He even had to check the turbo to make sure it was still a vf37
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Haven't done it yet, think im going to take it up to stu at mss to fit it for me to be honest!
Think its easy enough to do though, as far as i know only two bolts and setting the preload on the arm!
Duncan said id more than likely need a tweak on the map once its fitted tho so just be careful if you do decide to do it, its not over boosting or something like that after fitting
Think its easy enough to do though, as far as i know only two bolts and setting the preload on the arm!
Duncan said id more than likely need a tweak on the map once its fitted tho so just be careful if you do decide to do it, its not over boosting or something like that after fitting
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what did the rattle sound like? I've got an annoying noise when boosting, sounds like a card in bike spokes. Think it's either the actuator or wastegate flapper
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Albeit, admittedly, it shouldn't sound very loud from inside the car.
One simple test would be to temporarily disconnect the BCS's electrical connector... When you go out in it on (now, raw wastegate) boost, the noise shouldn't be there anymore... But if you CAN still hear it, then yeah, it's something else, obviously.
Last edited by joz8968; 22 August 2015 at 01:29 PM.
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That could just be your boost control solenoid rapidly opening and closing - which is entirely normal. It sort of makes that kind of *ticking* sound, I guess. (I can just about hear my own Apexi 3 port one in action).
Albeit, admittedly, it shouldn't sound very loud, from inside the car.
One simple test would be to temporarily disconnect the BCS's electrical connector... When you go out in it on (now, raw wastegate) boost, the noise shouldn't be there anymore... But if you CAN still hear it, then yeah, it's something else, obviously.
Albeit, admittedly, it shouldn't sound very loud, from inside the car.
One simple test would be to temporarily disconnect the BCS's electrical connector... When you go out in it on (now, raw wastegate) boost, the noise shouldn't be there anymore... But if you CAN still hear it, then yeah, it's something else, obviously.
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