Recommendations for 2.1 Stroker Kit
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From: Living the dream
As the title, I'm after going 2.1 Stroker in the new year so just looking at options, most seem to be around the £1200 mark and 500bhp capable so that's what I'm after, something that will be safe as houses at 500+ Not that I intend to run that much power (for now
) but as I'm going to the expense of a CDB I may as well make it as good as it can be for the sake of a little extra outlay.
So looking for rod & piston or full package recommendations that are tried and tested at that level and above, I'd like to keep the total price under £1500.
) but as I'm going to the expense of a CDB I may as well make it as good as it can be for the sake of a little extra outlay.So looking for rod & piston or full package recommendations that are tried and tested at that level and above, I'd like to keep the total price under £1500.
This is what I get when typing impreza 2.1 stroker kit in the google searchbar:
http://www.advancedautomotives.com/s...er-kit-3-w.asp
http://www.subaru4you.co.uk/engine/stroker21.shtml
http://lateralperformance.co.uk/prod..._special_offer_________
On the advanceautmotive website they say that if you want to go over 500bhp you will need a 14mm ARP heat stud kit to be safe in the really big numbers. But I don't know if that is really necessary when you're after 450-500bhp.
http://www.advancedautomotives.com/s...er-kit-3-w.asp
http://www.subaru4you.co.uk/engine/stroker21.shtml
http://lateralperformance.co.uk/prod..._special_offer_________
On the advanceautmotive website they say that if you want to go over 500bhp you will need a 14mm ARP heat stud kit to be safe in the really big numbers. But I don't know if that is really necessary when you're after 450-500bhp.
Ive gone for the advanced 500 kit aswel. I think arp 11mm should be good up to 550 with a scd. That's the block ive got. Won't be going over 2bar of boost with cossie gaskets so should be ok
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They all seem quite expensive compared to what I've been offered via pm for a 650bhp package, I'll have to check what's included.
Already got 11mm ARP studs so I'll be using those, pretty sure I'll not be going over 2bar
Already got 11mm ARP studs so I'll be using those, pretty sure I'll not be going over 2bar

ditch,speak with trev @ real street performance in the states mate
a crank if i remember worked out at around £200
http://realstreetperformance.com/Sho...subaru+stroker
a crank if i remember worked out at around £200
http://realstreetperformance.com/Sho...subaru+stroker
we supply/stock various components but dont sell "kits" for the simple reason that we have never found 'one size fits all'............happy to advise and offer guidance as we do for all of our other products/services
drop the office an email if we can assist
drop the office an email if we can assist
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From: Living the dream
What exactly does that figure include ???
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From: Enginetuner.co.uk Plymouth Dyno Dynamics RR Engine machining and building EcuTek SimTek mapping
The point is that we don't just engineer it properly, it also looks right. We use stress plates for boring and honing and we chemically clean the blocks taking a full half day just making the parts suitable for machining. It's usual to have to carry out various repair work on these old blocks including re threading. We also balance the assembly. All the fittings are plated.
Unless you have the fully equipped machine shop we have, I'm guessing all you're going to be able to do yourself is paint the bits before you screw it together?
Unless you have the fully equipped machine shop we have, I'm guessing all you're going to be able to do yourself is paint the bits before you screw it together?
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From: Enginetuner.co.uk Plymouth Dyno Dynamics RR Engine machining and building EcuTek SimTek mapping
Of course there's a lot more work involved in building a full engine! Some people think it's ok to just bolt heads on with a guesswork gasket. We trial assemble every engine, before stripping again, re-machining then build again freshly cleaned before painting. It's the only way you can ensure correct CR.
PS, rear thrust machining for the closed deck conversion is £150 inc vat. That also includes installing the correct tag slots for the rear thrust bearings.
Last edited by Alan Jeffery; Dec 20, 2014 at 11:08 PM.
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From: Living the dream
We would use your donor block anyway.
Of course there's a lot more work involved in building a full engine! Some people think it's ok to just bolt heads on with a guesswork gasket. We trial assemble every engine, before stripping again, re-machining then build again freshly cleaned before painting. It's the only way you can ensure correct CR.
PS, rear thrust machining for the closed deck conversion is £150 inc vat. That also includes installing the correct tag slots for the rear thrust bearings.
Of course there's a lot more work involved in building a full engine! Some people think it's ok to just bolt heads on with a guesswork gasket. We trial assemble every engine, before stripping again, re-machining then build again freshly cleaned before painting. It's the only way you can ensure correct CR.
PS, rear thrust machining for the closed deck conversion is £150 inc vat. That also includes installing the correct tag slots for the rear thrust bearings.

Does look lovely, I'm umming and arering about who to use for the block work, could I just send you my block halves and have you clean it and do the machining? what would it cost.
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From: Enginetuner.co.uk Plymouth Dyno Dynamics RR Engine machining and building EcuTek SimTek mapping
Fitted is around £5000 by the time you add gaskets, oil pump, water pump, cam belt kit and head studs, plus heads overhauled and full assembly.
We also include the first 50 miles of running in and first oil change etc.
The object is so that you can drive away with confidence!
We also include the first 50 miles of running in and first oil change etc.
The object is so that you can drive away with confidence!
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From: Enginetuner.co.uk Plymouth Dyno Dynamics RR Engine machining and building EcuTek SimTek mapping
Hi Ditch
As above please speak with Trev@Real Street Performance or No Limit Motorsport,we are used both companies and both has give us very competitive prices
For pistons I would go probably with Wiseco or Mahle pistons,not sure if Cosworth is making again stroker pistons,if yes then I would choose them,but I must admit they're bit noisier
Rods,K1 rods are pretty good for price and they handle without the issue yours target power
Thanks,Jura
As above please speak with Trev@Real Street Performance or No Limit Motorsport,we are used both companies and both has give us very competitive prices
For pistons I would go probably with Wiseco or Mahle pistons,not sure if Cosworth is making again stroker pistons,if yes then I would choose them,but I must admit they're bit noisier
Rods,K1 rods are pretty good for price and they handle without the issue yours target power
Thanks,Jura
As for pistons in 2.1 form, you need to remember certain piston & rod length combinations require the pocketing of the piston to clear the squirt jet, not an ideal idea, as it weakens the piston, & if modified badly will end in failure of the piston.
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